Coil Problem.Need help.
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Not just the cable on the mounting bolt, but the Battery/Frame/Block sequence as well. From an engineering stand point, that creates additional resistance.
My bet this was done to a specific application do to an engineering failure and was a factory work around.
Do you know how the starter is mounted in this application?
Does it bolt to:
The block
The bell housing
If bell housing, is there a bell housing dust shield between the starter and it's mounting surface?
Ford did in this application. (Why I don't know.) And the really odd thing is, I looked for a torque limit for the starter bolts in my Ford service manuals and could not find one. It has the listing of every torqued bolt on the engine from the cylinder heads, intake vacuum fittings, to the spark plugs, but it does not list the starter bolts.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,992
Likes: 2,741
From: Virginia
Not just the cable on the mounting bolt, but the Battery/Frame/Block sequence as well. From an engineering stand point, that creates additional resistance.
My bet this was done to a specific application do to an engineering failure and was a factory work around.
My bet this was done to a specific application do to an engineering failure and was a factory work around.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
I am well aware of that Stosh.Watched my dad's Vaccum wires burn on his 87 F150 because of that.I have actually already fixed that problem with new lines.Thanks for the concern.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Well that's definately not factory. That's where your air pump bolts up. That connection looks like it needs cleaned as well. I'd go to the block directly in this case.
Is there any ground cables, wires, straps etc.. going from the engine block to the frame, and firewall that you can see? According to the Diagrams it needs them.
Is there any ground cables, wires, straps etc.. going from the engine block to the frame, and firewall that you can see? According to the Diagrams it needs them.
As for ground cables/straps,I got nothin.I went out and looked,and I couldn't find any wire that goes from the block to the frame.I also looked under the accelerator cable,and I see a small hole,but no wire going from the engine to the hole.So i'm guessing the previous owner took all this off.By some miracle the truck still runs.I'm guessing that I need to head out to the junkyard and find a truck with the intact ground cables and rob them for mine?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
For your engine to chassis ground strap you can just use a battery cable that fits between some convenient bolts on the engine and the frame.
For the firewall to engine, a piece of eight or ten gauge wire with ring connectors will work. Again, just cut it to fit between some convenient bolts and in all cases clean the connection points down to bare metal and put some grease on them to prevent corrosion.
For the firewall to engine, a piece of eight or ten gauge wire with ring connectors will work. Again, just cut it to fit between some convenient bolts and in all cases clean the connection points down to bare metal and put some grease on them to prevent corrosion.
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Thats incredible, and most probably replace it with two cables! Or one and skip the frame. Either way is not good.
I have a foggy image of that in my mind like maybe I have seen it!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
There is a picture of it in the first post of page 2. Although it's not all that clear.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Cool, No need to be upset, Life is to short and I did not mean to dis you in any way!
That is bizarre, That goes against all electrical & mechanical engineering standards.
Not just the cable on the mounting bolt, but the Battery/Frame/Block sequence as well. From an engineering stand point, that creates additional resistance.
My bet this was done to a specific application do to an engineering failure and was a factory work around.
Do you know how the starter is mounted in this application?
Does it bolt to:
The block
The bell housing
If bell housing, is there a bell housing dust shield between the starter and it's mounting surface?
That is bizarre, That goes against all electrical & mechanical engineering standards.
Not just the cable on the mounting bolt, but the Battery/Frame/Block sequence as well. From an engineering stand point, that creates additional resistance.
My bet this was done to a specific application do to an engineering failure and was a factory work around.
Do you know how the starter is mounted in this application?
Does it bolt to:
The block
The bell housing
If bell housing, is there a bell housing dust shield between the starter and it's mounting surface?
I don't find that odd, I would think they would fall under general torque standards according to bolt size and thread. But then again, If they go into an aluminum bell housing, they should list or state a spec!
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Thanks Franklin and Bdox.I'll get to doing that this upcoming weekend.I'll post results when I get it done.Thanks for all the help ya'll.Hopefully this solves my problem.
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Is this hookup method for all 300 i6's, Cars and Trucks?
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
In 1980, and 1981 it is for the trucks, not sure for the vans. I'll have to look at my other diagrams to see if they say something different.
The 300 uses the same bellhousing as the 302, but I think the dust shield on the 300 is for the 300 only.
The 300 uses the same bellhousing as the 302, but I think the dust shield on the 300 is for the 300 only.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Okay,it seems I forgot about a problem I was having.Today I was out running my truck.I let it idle for a few minutes,and then I shut it off.I flipped the turn signal on,to see if it was still making the noise.About 5 seconds later,the truck started up.I didn't even turn the key all the way over.I only had it to where the fasten seat belt buzzer went on.This has happened a few times before.Is this another symptom of my ground problems?
And another question,where exactly on the block should my negative battery cable be bolted too?Pics would be great.Thanks ya'll.
And another question,where exactly on the block should my negative battery cable be bolted too?Pics would be great.Thanks ya'll.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Well as factory, upper starter bolt, with a tang to ground it to the frame around the center of the cable, midway through the cable length.
So you will have to improvise.
As for the starting problem. A worn out or misadjusted ignition switch can cause that.
So you will have to improvise.
As for the starting problem. A worn out or misadjusted ignition switch can cause that.
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
From our earlier posts I suspect you may want to put the ground to the starter, I don't have any personal knowledge that this is required though, and I wouldn't do it.
I personally would put it to the block (any place on the block), put a ground strap from block to frame, and if needed from block to starter.
Remember the shorter the current path, the less the line loss.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
I personally would put it to the block (any place on the block), put a ground strap from block to frame, and if needed from block to starter.
Remember the shorter the current path, the less the line loss.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~