300 total mechanical advance
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Elder User
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From: DeKalb, Ill.
300 total mechanical advance
I have been fighting an ignition ping for a while now.
I need to get my hands on some numbers that I can't find anywhere.
I am wondering what the total mechanical timing advance should be (roughly).
I am pretty sure I need to re-curve my distributor, but I first need a better understanding of the numbers.
In short what I'm looking for are
-highest MECHANICAL advance #'s (vac. line plugged, of course)
-rpm for full mechanical advance.
I know these digits may vary a bit from motor to motor, but I need a starting point.
I've never reset the curve in a distributor.
I want to know where I am, and where I want to end up before I start.
Any insight would be great. Thanks,
Murph.
I need to get my hands on some numbers that I can't find anywhere.
I am wondering what the total mechanical timing advance should be (roughly).
I am pretty sure I need to re-curve my distributor, but I first need a better understanding of the numbers.
In short what I'm looking for are
-highest MECHANICAL advance #'s (vac. line plugged, of course)
-rpm for full mechanical advance.
I know these digits may vary a bit from motor to motor, but I need a starting point.
I've never reset the curve in a distributor.
I want to know where I am, and where I want to end up before I start.
Any insight would be great. Thanks,
Murph.
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Elder User
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From: DeKalb, Ill.
Do you know of carb vs. efi differences in the numbers?
Murph.
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It's not running at all. It's a work in progress. I got the dizzy used from a guy who decided to switch over to a built 460. His 300 was mildly built too though. As soon as I get this project finished I can tell you how the truck runs. I did install the dizzy and fire the engine before I started tearing parts off and it worked fine, but I didn't do a road test or anything. As soon as I do I can let you know though. Probably two weeks or so. But I think 24 mechanical is a pretty standard thing.
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Elder User
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From: DeKalb, Ill.
I tried to check this last night, but it turns out the regular old strobe timing light isn't the right tool.
The notch on the pulley advances too far to actually read.
Besides that, the strobe just doesn't keep up with the higher rpm.
Turns out I might have to take my distributor to a shop where they check, and set it up for me.
We'll see...
The notch on the pulley advances too far to actually read.
Besides that, the strobe just doesn't keep up with the higher rpm.
Turns out I might have to take my distributor to a shop where they check, and set it up for me.
We'll see...
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you mean it idles at a decent setpoint but it shoots off beyond all the timing marks when you rev it up?
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From: DeKalb, Ill.
Yes, exactly.
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From: DeKalb, Ill.
No, the springs are in tact.
The problem is the grooved gauge only measures up to 14 degrees.
The timing does advance incrementally along with the rpm.
I can see the timing notch advance at 1400, 1600, 1800, 2000rpm etc.
I just can't measure 20 to 30 degrees of advance with the grooves only going up to 14.
Kinda like laying a 12" ruler on a table and trying to estimate how wide the table is.
I think the only way to have it measured and set right will be to take it out, and give it to someone who has the equipment to spin it and get some readings.
I'm going to start calling around tomorrow.
I hope this isn't a thing of the past,
like the old pair of boots in my closet that I can't find anyone to resole....
The problem is the grooved gauge only measures up to 14 degrees.
The timing does advance incrementally along with the rpm.
I can see the timing notch advance at 1400, 1600, 1800, 2000rpm etc.
I just can't measure 20 to 30 degrees of advance with the grooves only going up to 14.
Kinda like laying a 12" ruler on a table and trying to estimate how wide the table is.
I think the only way to have it measured and set right will be to take it out, and give it to someone who has the equipment to spin it and get some readings.
I'm going to start calling around tomorrow.
I hope this isn't a thing of the past,
like the old pair of boots in my closet that I can't find anyone to resole....
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Unless you live in a big city, I'm thinking you're out of luck on finding a local shop that spins and calibrates mechanical advance dizzies. But hey, ya never know.
So did half of your timing bracket snap off? Because I wouldn't think the factory would only include marks up to 14 degrees. That's pretty much all of useless.
So did half of your timing bracket snap off? Because I wouldn't think the factory would only include marks up to 14 degrees. That's pretty much all of useless.
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Elder User
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From: DeKalb, Ill.
My proximity to Chicago should keep me in good shape.
As far as my timing bracket, it's in great shape and very useful for what it's meant for.
How many degrees does yours measure?
Murph.
As far as my timing bracket, it's in great shape and very useful for what it's meant for.
How many degrees does yours measure?
Murph.
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
His is probably only set up or designed for base timing, unlike most of the more modern EFI setups I have seen. For example, my 2.9 Ford I think will measure up to 40 degrees either direction (advance/retard), but not 100% sure. It's been a while since I've tinkered with it.
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You're right. I didn't mean completely useless. It's just not as helpful as it could be. Maybe you could get an ATI degree tape. a sticky tape that goes around the whole circumference of your vibration dampener. Installation would be a little bit of a pain but with a tach you could map out your whole advance curve exactly
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From: DeKalb, Ill.
Here's the latest.
I've been doing a lot of research lately.
A lot more reading than wrenching actually.
Now I'm back to wrenching and I decided to experiment.
I set the timing all the way back to 0* and the ping is gone.
I wanted to get rid of as much advance as I could to verify that the sound IS in fact detonation.
Turns out it is (I was really starting to question that).
This is making me think that my timing notch is incorrect.
I thought that a 0* timing setting would really take the legs out
from underneath the old truck, but it didn't. It still has all of it's power.
Now I am very suspicious that TDC is not accurate on my pulley.
I'm going to check that tomorrow after work.
No time today, Cubs start the season in about an hour. PLAY BALL!
Anyway, the closest shop to me that can check the curve
in my distributor is about 45 miles away.
The kicker is- their business hours coincide with my work schedule.
Soooo, I'll need to take some time off work to have it checked out.
I need to exhaust all other possibilities before I take time off work.
Tune in next time.
Murph.
I've been doing a lot of research lately.
A lot more reading than wrenching actually.
Now I'm back to wrenching and I decided to experiment.
I set the timing all the way back to 0* and the ping is gone.
I wanted to get rid of as much advance as I could to verify that the sound IS in fact detonation.
Turns out it is (I was really starting to question that).
This is making me think that my timing notch is incorrect.
I thought that a 0* timing setting would really take the legs out
from underneath the old truck, but it didn't. It still has all of it's power.
Now I am very suspicious that TDC is not accurate on my pulley.
I'm going to check that tomorrow after work.
No time today, Cubs start the season in about an hour. PLAY BALL!
Anyway, the closest shop to me that can check the curve
in my distributor is about 45 miles away.
The kicker is- their business hours coincide with my work schedule.
Soooo, I'll need to take some time off work to have it checked out.
I need to exhaust all other possibilities before I take time off work.
Tune in next time.
Murph.