I'm having trouble finding these for the 63. I'm talking about the metal piece under the floor that the rubber mounts go into. Mine need to be replaced asap as the metal is barely still surrounding the rubber mount and this is my daily driver...I would hate for that to give out on the road.

Any help? It seems like all the ones I find are for later years.

Also, tips on doing the replacement are appreciated as well. I have the tools, just not the procedure

Thanks in advance

 

Rick of Carolina Classics makes new 61 to 64 mounts and is a FTE sponsor. High quality product.

Uni Body 66 and regular cab body 81 use the same metal front cab mounts.

Garbz

 

carolina-classics.com / 800-598-4211 / Cab Mounts / Catalog, page 13.

 

Thanks for the info Number Dummy, but the web site address is: Carolina Classics, Obsolete Ford Truck Parts, truck part, ford truck part, truck body parts, classic truck part, pickup truck part, old truck part, classic ford truck part, antique truck part, old ford truck part, auto truck part, ford truck restorat
You need to hyphenate between the two words or you end up at some universal web address.

 

Ooops, somehow the forum turned my typing into a link...I typed using the full web address and it made it a link. So without the w's it's, carolina-classics DOT COM.

 

I listed Carolina Classics' phone number, so people can call and order the parts, or request a catalog.

I just edited my post, adding a hyphen.

You can edit your posts here on FTE for up to one hour, so you do not have to type new ones to add info, or make corrections.

Members are used to scrolling back up and reading the posts again....especially if I type them.

btw: I have their actual printed catalog, picked it up from Carolina Classics last May while attending the F100 SuperNats in Knoxville, TN.

 

thanks for all of your responses. Anyone else have them for a little less or is $150 a good price for the pair?

Also, how would I go about replacing the piece? is it spot welded on }:P

if it is, I dont want to drill through each weld because of the floor(which is in perfect shape) and grinding is so tediously annoying.

and when you say the 66 and 81 use the same metal, are you saying that they are interchangeable parts or that they are the same thickness and I could use them to patch my own?

 

Interchangeable between the two differing trucks.

The re pops are of the same length not like the originals as the drivers side is longer than the passenger. Ricks are the best out there. you get what you pay for.

Garbz

 

So rick's does NOT have the longer mount for the driver side? Would'nt that mean it would be better to go find one from the 66 or 81 truck?

I'm just trying to catch on to what you are saying.

Thanks again.

 

I too am interested in how to go about replacing the front cab mounts on a 63 unibody. Does the body have to be completely removed or just raised enough off the frame to access the area? Anybody have any pics of the procedure? I've done a search and nothing specific comes up. Please advise....
Thanks

 

I am getting ready to re-do the cab mounts on my 64 - I would also be interested in what the best way to get the job done is...

 

Normally the area under the gas pedal does not rust out. So one can leave that in place and weld in the shorter aftermarket units.

I typically remove the bolts holding the body and jack it up and brace with wood the floor on top of the rail. Remove all the rusted mount and repair the cowl bottom of rust. Mount the new in place and rosette weld to the floor.

It is a pretty simple process. If one is replacing the floor it works similar. Just make sure the cab bolt is aligned through the mounts.

I did a restore on a 66 Crew shell and made entirely new mounts from 14 gauge steel from patterns i made from a 63. If one does not want to make their own then Carolina Classics has the best non stock unit.

Garbz

 

Thanks Garbz. That's helpful info. Obviously on the unibody one has to remove a few more bolts to jack up the body but not a big deal. A nice frame-off restoration would be nice but it's not going to happen right now...LOL!
Thanks again for the response.

 

Well worth it.

 

It's a bad angle but the jackstand is on the rocker so as long as you have tall enough jackstands you could just take apart all linkages, steering rag joint, wiring, fuel lines, brake lines, front fenders, inner aprons and have plenty of room to work. My cab didn't have any front floorboards in this picture but the mid-cab cross brace and rear cab floors were there for strength. Buy a cheap welding blanket from Harbor Freight to cover the frame and a set of their spot weld cutters. Put a wire wheel on an angle grinder to clean up the flange enough to SEE the factory spot welds, center punch them then drill a 1/8th pilot hole in the center of each spot weld, then hit it with the spot weld cutter. The 1/8th pilot hole will stop the cutter from dancing around and keep the finish welding much cleaner. Once the spot welds are cut through JUST the single layer of metal, you should be able to get a chisel between the inner and outer pieces of cab mount. Work one side at a time so you have an example of original panel alignment so the mount bolts don't have issues on assembly. I recommend coating inside and outside the mount with some POR15 or Eastwood Rust Prohibiting paint.