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Does anybody know what the approximate minimum I would need to lift the cab to have enough room install studs and torque them properly. I don't have real tall garage.Thanks.
You can do it ( I did ) without lifting the cab at all...
I did too, on a Ex w/ a lift.
Here is the "socket" I used to torque the rear nuts. I found a "modified" torque table that you input your torque wrench dimensions and you "extension socket" length and it spits out what you need to set your torque wrench to.
I am not trying to hijack this thread but is there thread or link on this site as to how to do head gaskets without lifting the cab or pulling the engine? I thought after having read a number of times on this site about pulling cabs for HG repalcement that you couldn't do it any other way.
Thanks for any info.
PS. Sorry BSTANGBILL if you think that I have hijacked your thread, but I thought that we both might benefit from this question.
Here is the "socket" I used to torque the rear nuts. I found a "modified" torque table that you input your torque wrench dimensions and you "extension socket" length and it spits out what you need to set your torque wrench to.
where did you get this and where is the torque table at. Im planning on head studs some time this summer
I had it built, if you make the photo bigger, you will see that the extension part is a craftsman wrench handle, the part you put on the ratchet is any size socke that will fit your ratchet, the bottom is ground off and welded to wrench handle. Whatever size you need to fit the nut on the studs is ground off on the top and welded to the bottom of wrench. I used 3 or 3.5" center socket to center socket. You put that into the following torque wrench extension calculators along with the displayed measurments from your torque wrench and desired torque and it will spit out what you need to set your torque wrench to. If I remember right it will be lower due to increased leverage. Hope this helps.
I don't really understand how that thing works. When you turn the torque wrench it is trying to turn something that is stationary so the only thing your putting pressure on is the socket welded to the wrench not the nut on the stud. Right?
By your theory this should work. I just don't understand how. Its not going to torque anything except the first joint socket by my very little common sense. Sorry I had to jerry rig some pictures together. I left all my tools at work or I would go try it.
If you look at this photo the left side top is where the torque wrench goes. The bottom of the left socket is where a nut used to go, that got welded to an old wrench handle. On the right side socket the top is where a ratchet used to go. The bottom of the right socket is where the nut for your stud will go. You have to use modified torque procedures because the extension adds length to the torque wrench or additional leverage. Its low profile allows it to get on top of the studs on the driverside rear top and bottom.