95 5.0L throwing Check Engine Codes
#1
95 5.0L throwing Check Engine Codes
My 1995 Eddie Bauer F-150 is throwing Check Engine Lights after running for a while. Sometimes it comes on other times it doesn't. Pulling the codes shows 565 and 332. The 565 is from what i understand "Canister Purge 1 failure." This would make sense as my main gas tank has a leak rusted into it, and i've heard that a gas cap not being tightly on can throw this code. I solely use the auxiliary tank at the moment. The 332 though is what bugs me. I've yet to rip the EGR valve off, but the truck only has 37,000 miles on it so I'm wondering if it could even be the valve? The truck runs fine so I'm wondering if it could be the sensor. Any input is appreciated. Thanks
#2
My 1995 Eddie Bauer F-150 is throwing Check Engine Lights after running for a while. Sometimes it comes on other times it doesn't. Pulling the codes shows 565 and 332. The 565 is from what i understand "Canister Purge 1 failure." This would make sense as my main gas tank has a leak rusted into it, and i've heard that a gas cap not being tightly on can throw this code. I solely use the auxiliary tank at the moment. The 332 though is what bugs me. I've yet to rip the EGR valve off, but the truck only has 37,000 miles on it so I'm wondering if it could even be the valve? The truck runs fine so I'm wondering if it could be the sensor. Any input is appreciated. Thanks
EGR solenoid = EVR
#3
fixed it. thanks for your help everyone. turned out to be the vacuum reservoir(aka ford's infamous black tomato can). The can had a hole rusted into it, not allowing vacuum to flow to the solenoid, therefore not allowing it to open my egr valve, which threw the 332 code. Just went to the store and bought a can the same dimensions for 1.29(tomato juice ironically). Then i took the fitting out of the old vacuum reservoir(had to open the can for this one lol). Drilled a hole in the can, drained the juice, rinsed it, and dried it. After that i put the fitting in with some goopy glue(some kinda waterproof craft glue cuz i didnt have any silicone lying around) and duct taped the top. Then i spray painted it black for some extra rust protection. clipped it in place, hooked up the lines, vacuum suckin like a 2 dollar *****. No more check engine lights so far. Yippy for the 1.29 vacuum leak fix.
#5
yeah i felt like a goof using duct tape, but the engine light hasnt come on yet, i had her sustained at 80 mph in OD for a good 5-10 minutes and it didn't throw the EGR failed to open code, and at those RPMs it would definitely be telling it to open up. So i think 1.29 and some duct tape saved my day haha. It's good news bc I found out the antifreeze in it was factory, from 14 years ago. Flushed it, sure enough, black as oil. Nice green antifreeze in there now
#6
Hi Neptoes, think I might have the same problem. I have a question though. Do you have constant vacuum from the reservoir to the solenoid? I am trying to fix a 332 as well. I disconnected the vac line connected to the solenoid that comes from the reservoir. With the engine running I get not vac measurement. Thanks for any assistance.