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You pulled the heads in the truck? Man that is a bitch job, sure glad you had a cherry picker instead of manhandling and dropping it. How did you manage to get studs in with the engine in too? Sounds like its time to update your signature
Why? I cycled them three times at 120ftlbs with 30 minutes between cycles. What causes the need to re-torque them?
Also, I see people recommending a re-torque like it's an easy thing to do. When you guys do this are you pulling the injectors to get all the bolts or just doing the 28 bolts you can reach?
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
You pulled the heads in the truck? Man that is a bitch job, sure glad you had a cherry picker instead of manhandling and dropping it. How did you manage to get studs in with the engine in too? Sounds like its time to update your signature
Yes. Yes it is. And We managed, but it made for a most interesting day.
Why? I cycled them three times at 120ftlbs with 30 minutes between cycles. What causes the need to re-torque them?
Also, I see people recommending a re-torque like it's an easy thing to do. When you guys do this are you pulling the injectors to get all the bolts or just doing the 28 bolts you can reach?
Because after you have driven the truck, the ARP's can and do stretch. Even the slightest bit can create a path for coolant.
You don't have to do it, but I would if I put ARP's in my truck.
Putting in the heads with the studs like that, I'm guessing that the studs were slipped into the holes and then the heads were positioned over the engine.
Slip the head gasket in, screw down the studs and lower the heads down.
That would have made a very interesting procedure indeed.
Putting in the heads with the studs like that, I'm guessing that the studs were slipped into the holes and then the heads were positioned over the engine.
Slip the head gasket in, screw down the studs and lower the heads down.
That would have made a very interesting procedure indeed.
You're a hell of an instinctive mechanic Dan.
Originally Posted by SuperDoodie
With enough boost, any stud can stretch.
I'm sure you will be fine, I have seen a few sets of ARP's with stretched studs.
It can take up to 10,000 miles for a new OEM headgasket to fully seal just FYI.
I'm pretty sure I'm not going to baby the truck around for the next four months to get that kind of mileage built up. I think what I'll do instead is sometime in the next week or two I'll pop the covers and check torque on the center studs. If they're still good I think I can safely assume they all are and press on. If they aren't I guess I'll have to strip 'em and torque 'em again.
I've been reading a little on this whole re-torquing deal. When I do go to re check them, should I do it hot or cold?
I'm pretty sure I'm not going to baby the truck around for the next four months to get that kind of mileage built up. I think what I'll do instead is sometime in the next week or two I'll pop the covers and check torque on the center studs. If they're still good I think I can safely assume they all are and press on. If they aren't I guess I'll have to strip 'em and torque 'em again.
I've been reading a little on this whole re-torquing deal. When I do go to re check them, should I do it hot or cold?
Thank you.
Stone cold after sitting for a day is the best, IMO. Give it a little time for everything to settle, basically keep the chip turned down so you don't get into that threshold of boost that started this whole saga is what I would be doing.
And assumption is the mother of all failures.
I'm pretty sure I'm not going to baby the truck around for the next four months to get that kind of mileage built up. I think what I'll do instead is sometime in the next week or two I'll pop the covers and check torque on the center studs. If they're still good I think I can safely assume they all are and press on. If they aren't I guess I'll have to strip 'em and torque 'em again.
I've been reading a little on this whole re-torquing deal. When I do go to re check them, should I do it hot or cold?
Stone cold after sitting for a day is the best, IMO. Give it a little time for everything to settle, basically keep the chip turned down so you don't get into that threshold of boost that started this whole saga is what I would be doing.
It's sometimes a little creepy how alike your thought process is to mine.....and I didn't intend for that to be an insult
And assumption is the mother of all failures.
Indeed...But in this case I was meticulous enough about the job that I will be comfortable making a final decision off a small sampling.
Originally Posted by SuperDoodie
sounds good
Thanks. I appreciate all your input through this deal.
What you want to do is get on the engine as hard as you feel comfortable, you want to really put some cylinder pressure on those studs, so they stretch out to whatever they will, then while it's still hot, retorque them, JMO.
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