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I have an '86 F-250 Supercab converted to Dana 60 front, currently running a 351W/ZF5/NP208. I will be converting to a 460/ZF5/NP205 twin stick.
My understanding is all that's necessary is swap mounts such as those from Bronco Graveyard, an oil filter relacation kit or notch the crossmember (thoughts on each route? I was planning on a relocation kit, possibly dual filters), a 460 radiator, and beyond that whatever little BS items, hoses, wiring, etc.
One thought that occurred to me is whether the Duraspark module for my 351W will work with the 460 Duraspark distributor? Other than that I think I have everything else under control. I was gonna be getting a car engine but that deal fell through. I found a 460 from an '86 F-250 that I will be picking up next week so long as the seller doesn't mess with me on it. It's in the truck now and complete with all brackets so that saves me some aggrivation dealing with hunting down brackets, truck pan/pickup, etc.
I'm expecting this should be an easy swap. I'll be doing a cheapy rebuild on the 460 which supposedly runs good. Just rings, bearings, seals, gaskets, probably a mild port job on the exhaust side and lap the valves. Unless the block has a big ridge or the crank is scored I'll be keeping it on the cheap.
Is there anything else I need to get or take into consideration? Any tips on making thsi easy? Never done a big block in these trucks but plenty of small blocks. Plan is to remove rad support and out with old, in with new all as one piece.
Just get the engine perches from the donor truck's crossmember. There's no need to buy special motor mounts.
Any blue grommet DS-II module will work.
The 460 should already come with the right angle filter adapter.
I would not suggest notching the crossmember for clearance (though I have never done it)
I don't like the idea of notching the crossmember either. I was going to get a relocation kit. Are the crossmembers the same between small block and big block trucks? I was under the impression they were different, hence the need for conversion/swap motor mounts and everyone saying the oil filoter clearance issue. I suppose the perches are either bolted or riveted on? Don't have a welder (yet) so welding is not an easy option. I prefer to keep this as simple as possible so ixnay on the remote filter makes things easier.
Also I have a 460 ZF5, been sitting under my workbench waiting for this project.
The perches can bolt in, just to the back of the crossmember.
The 'clearance issue' exists if you get a engine out of a Lincoln that has the filter at right angles to the block.
The one from a truck should point forward towards the lower radiator hose.
(Edit) Do you see the 'dent' in the front of the crossmember on the DS?
My crossmember does not have that dent/relief where the oil filter would go. Passenger side frame perch is bolted on, drivers side is bolted and riveted. Rivets would be a pain to grind out due to space/angle but certainly doable. I could get the frame perches from the truck I get the engine from, but I don't think a 90* oil filter adaptor will work with my crossmember since there's no 'dent'. I suppose I could heat and beat? Either that or take the whole crossmember from the donor truck. That could be a pain to swap crossmembers but certainly doable.
This was my last truck, a cheapy beater plow truck, but it was an '86 and has the same exact crossmember as the '86 Supercab I'll be putting the 460 in. Same original driveline in each truck, 351W/C6/NP208.
This is the truck I'm doing the 460 swap to. 351W has a leaky rear main causing clutch chatter. Don't feel like pulling the trans again. If I'm pulling heavy stuff out I'm putting waht I want back in. The engine runs great, but the chatter si getting old. I can deal with it driving around normally, but notwhen I pull my boat as I gotta drag the clutch more. Besides, the 351 is straining a bit to pull my boat, really could use a bigger engine anyhow.
That oil filter kit should work. For the exhaust I have long tubes, snagged 'em for $20. 1 3/4" primary into 3" collector. Was planning on necking down to use with my existing 2.5" pipes. Yeah a 3" would be better but I'm not going crazy with the port work on these heads.
On the 460 in my car I run 2" primary into 3.5" collector down to 3" pipe back into mufflers then down to 2.5" to fit over the axle. That works well enough and this engine will make less power at less RPM.