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I'm running a 390 in my '67 F100, and I just pulled the intake and put on a new Edelbrock Performer intake, and Edelbrock carb last night.
Today I got around to firing it up. Got it running good and after a short period of time running it started ticking real bad on passenger side. So I hooked up my factory gauge cluster, and oil pressure never moved. I am in the process of building a custom dash for my truck, so I got my mechanical gauge out of the box and hooked that up. I couldn't even get any oil to run into the clear line after 30 seconds of running.
What could have happened when I swapped the intakes? It always showed halfway between the Low an High on the factory cluster before I tore it apart.
Are the rocker arm bolts in the right position? Tappered bolt has to go with the one for oil passage. 3rd bolt back on the P side and 2nd one back on the D side. Did you change oil after the swap? I allways change oil after a intake swap just incase some antifreeze got into it. Better safe then sorry.
The rocker arm bolts are in the same holes that they were in, I never took them all the way out and layed 'em on a clean work bench till they went back in.
I haven't changed my oil yet, and a little antifreeze did get in it. Would that cause it not to oil? I was waiting to change my oil till I made sure the intake wasn't going to leak, which it didn't for the minute that I ran the truck today.
There's always a chance something happened to the oil pump driveshaft, since the distributor was out, or even a bit of debris through the screen into the pump could lock it up and twist off the shaft. Have you had the valve covers off? Always a chance the rockers came loose, but you should still show at least a little pressure at the guage, and you should see oil coming out of the rockers & shafts. Might want to pull the plugs & spin it with the starter if you check for oil up top, not start it again if you're not sure it has pressure. Might be able to get a decent look at the oil pump shaft by pulling the dizzy, especially if you have or can borrow a borescope. I would bet a couple bux that the pump shaft is twisted off or something similar
After it starting ticking I did pull the valve covers off and checked the rockers and shafts, that was all up to snuff. There was no fresh oil in the valve covers after I ran it this evening either.
I think I'll just pull the pan tomorrow and see what it looks like under there. This is a 1967 2wd frame, that I converted to 4 wheel drive. Can you pull the pan without loosening up the motor mounts?
If the oil pump drive shaft has fallen into the pan, just leave it and install a new one from the top without the clip. If you want to check your bearings, not a bad idea since you have run the engine quite bit without oil, then pull the engine and check the bearings. FYI, my wife sheared a pump drive shaft on her 1968 F250 390 at highway speeds and by the time she got to the shoulder the bearings were hammered, she knows the red light means shut it off NOW. Even though I changed the shaft from the top and we ran the motor. Within a month the bearings started rattling.
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