I have a 94 turbo 7.3 5 speed manual 4x4 ex cab long box I am NOT a body lift type of guy but because of the crappy down pipe design and not wanting to smash in my cab to fit the bigger down pipe and a body lift being dirt cheep or just make one out of new bolts and square tubing is there any problems I would run into putting one in? Like steering shaft length rad lift ??? Thanx for any info or help

 

aim not sure but to install a body lift dont u need to seprate the frame form the body but in the lift and them slap it all back together

 

Ya that's the general idea behind a body lift I just need to know what problems I would run into things I would need to consider and would it be better going with a 2 or 3 inch lift

 

i as well want a 3 inch body lift what mods need to be done to make this happen

 

3" body lift is too much for these trucks, the engine will hit the firewall on the driver-side IIRC. 2" is about as big as you can go, and this is the preferred amount of lift if installing a larger turbo downpipe. 1" lift with hockey pucks works very well too, then for the big downpipe it helps if you pound the weld seam of the firewall to bend it so tis flush with the rest of the sheetmetal. No deforming or reshaping of the actual firewall is needed either way, just flatten that weld seam.

 

Is there anything in doing the 2'' body lift that I have to watch for? Like steering etc...

 

Some have put three in lift but one members bodyhit his motor .I don't see how because it raises straight up. 1" is all you to clear the downpipe. You can do one side at a time and everything will stay lined up. I'm not sure but if you go three inches you may have to modify. Do a search on body lift Dave S. gave a detailed list of everything he ran into installing his.

 

Here's a good thread from the Tech sticky in the 4x4 forum that discusses the how, why and why not of body lifts:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...he-how-to.html

 

2" is more than you need for the downpipe mod.

Emergency brake cable will be stretched very tight.
Fan shroud needs modified.
Transfer case linkage needs modified.

With a stock bed, you will also have to work on the fuel tank filler hoses.

Watch the brake lines as you raise the cab, they are long enough with the loops by the master cylinder, but you don't want to let them kink when you jack the cab up.

My steering linkage was long enough for 2", but 3" may slide the shaft apart to far.
Also keep an eye on ground straps as you raise the cab.

 

ok thanx! for all your help i know its a pain in the *** to have to find stuff for people when the info is there in another place ! im just using my phone to check it most of the time so this helps alot anyway a 2 inch it will be then im guessing new body mounts would not be a bad idea at the same time ??

 

Most likely the radiator support mounts will disintegrate when you start to remove the bolts, or at least mine did.

Front and rear cab mounts, they were not in the best shape, but still in servicable condition.

Bed mounts, never went there since I had a dump bed installed many years ago.

What you may also want to look at is the condition of the frame mounts the bushings set on.

Both radiator support brackets also needed replaced, and the front cab brackets are getting thin.
The rear mounts sit on a cross member, so that was fine.

 

I got a 2'' lift in my truck and the engine hits the firewall when I go in reverse... I think its making its own clearence now...lol

It is a good time to do the bodymounts but be forewarned they are a pita and dont come out easly... there pinched together from the factory and add a bit of rust, dir, ect... and there impossable to remove. But I found a neet trick that worked for me, and should work for you.

Remove the mount through bolts one one side of the truck and block it up so the cab is off of the mounts. Now place a socket and extention (1/2'' drive) on the nut at the botom of the mount. now place a jack under the extention and jack up the truck... now dont jack it up into the air but enough to push the top mount off of the flange. If you dont see a gap between the flange and mount then use a prybar and eventually you'll se a gap between the top mount and flange... now use a sawzall and cut the steel sleeve that conects the two parts of the mount.

You can try to cut through the rubber portion of the mount, but cutting rubber with a recripricating saw is no fun... trust me!... and some have burned the mout out but thats a hellof a lot of rubber to burn...It's allot easier to cut the 1/2'' of steel sleeve.

This may not make allot of sence right now but once you get into it you'll see what I mean. This trick saved me hours and hours and hours...lol

 

As far as my rad mounts go I hope they are new because it had a new rad put in just before I got the truck and I hope that the cab and box mounts are still good that sounds like a pain in the *** to do them all and I'm on a buget right now but the cross over and pipe is in need of replacement as well as the y pipe seal or something haven't fully checked but I thought that I may as well do the upgrade while I'm at it

 

The core support mounts (forward body mounts) to the frame and attaches the grille, fenders and radiator to it. The radiator mounts onto the core support. If the radiator was replaced, that doesn't include the core support mounting.

Jason

 

Oh ok thanx I guess ill just have to wait and see what everything looks like underneath when I get started I'm not with my truck right now but maybe tomorrow ill get to take a look