Hey guys, I finally got my intercooler pipes, spyder and boots yesterday. I was wondering what modifications I need to make to install it. 7.3 intercooler. It'll be a bit yet as I don't have clamps, but I'd like to know what I'm up against. I did a search, but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. I know I need to make holes for the pipes to go through, but other than that, I'm not sure.

 

This is the best write up that I've found. It's a fairly easy job, but time consuming. You will need to cut holes for the pipes and make perches for the cooler to sit on. Also, you will need to modify the intercooler pipes a little bit to make them work. You will need to push back the lower portion of the condenser as well.

As far as special tools, you don't really need any. A plasma torch makes the cutting process efficient and flawless but a sawzall will work as well.

Tims I/C Page example

Check out my gallery for pictures as well. Several other members have good pictures as well.

 

I should have taken pics when I did mine. I also followed the "Tim's IC" example. I mounted the IC as high as possible. I welded two elevator bolts to the upper core support and used heavy rubber washers to sandwich the top tabs with a fender washer and nylock nut to clamp them. That was clean and easy and eliminated the need for any brackets. I replaced the lower portion of the formed sheetmetal center support that the latch bolts to with flatbar to get more clearance. I built brackets for the bottom and bolted them to the top of the frame rails, drilled and tapped holes in the frame for those. The elevator bolts up high and tapped holes on the frame make it easy since you don't need to fish nuts, washers, and tools behind the core support, the hardware is fixed and exposed. I had to cut pipe clearance in the core support, radiator flanges, and radiator shroud flanges. I have the old style radiator though, yours may be different. Make sure your cutouts allow room for your clamps. Install the spider. Then modify the pipes till the routing is perfect between the IC and spider. Pressure test your pipes to check your welds. I used plastic pipe caps clamped into the boots and threaded an air fitting into one of them. Not too much air though, they blow the boots off pretty easily and go flying. Clean your pipes well before you finish the install and start it. Any weld splatter or slag in them could get sucked into your motor. I filled mine with some crushed rock and shook the crap out of them for a while. Then wash the inside thoroughly to remove all traces of grit and dirt. Run your MAP line over to the hot side if you can and plug the port on the passenger side plenum. If you haven't done it already, do the CCV mod to keep your new IC clean.

 

Thanks guys! Once i get the one boot replaced and some clamps, I'll be off and running!
BEans sent!

 

is anyone having trouble with the link for tims page cause i had its save as a link and now it wont work?

 

Linky no worky

 

Ya I have been having the same problem for the past month or two I haven't been able to pull up his site when people ask for it.

 

yea, that page has been down for a while.

You can grab it on archive.org and get the text, but i'm not sure if the pictures load.

 

Look for pics in my sig. They are not all great but may be helpful.

 

Anyone ever delt with ATS Diesel intercoolers? Or even the Banks? My question is do they come with the spyder in install them on our trucks?

I noticed that ATS sells the pipe kit, but no clue about the spyder.

Thanks!

 

The spider is the hard to find part when adding an IC to an OBS. The supply of Ford Early 99 spiders seems to come and go. I bought a Banks Twin-Ram/Compressor Outlet spider as piece parts from Banks. It fits perfectly, but spendy, about $300. Used E99 spiders were going for $200+ on ebay at that time and those still need adapter boots to fit the OBS. Banks makes good IC parts, but they are really proud of them.

 

I agree. They are proud of their products. I am going to call ATS and see what they say about their kits.