u-joint help needed
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Joined: May 2007
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u-joint help needed
i volunteered to help a friend on his 84. we need to replace the u-joint on the front half-shaft/axle shaft....whatever the damn thing is called, coming out of the front diff. and going to the right wheel. we've never replaced a u-joint before, but others have remarked about it being easy so we figured what the hell....but this one won't be the same (that's the way our luck goes). so, how much work is it to replace this one? am i going to need any special tools? is it going to be pretty obvious how things should come apart when we get started, or are we much better off w/ a manual/instructions of some sort? basically i'm wondering what i'm gettin myself into on this.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Get a Haynes or Chilton's manual for the truck - OR, you can find info on Autozone's online repair guides. The hardest part other than pressing out the u-joint (you will want a press or a fairly sturdy vice and strong enough dowels, etc.) from the axle shaft assemblies is getting it all apart to get to that point. If you want it any easier, I believe you can still buy the complete assembly and just swap 'em out so you can overhaul the one you remove at your leisure for a spare. Special tools required: bearing nut socket to remove the rotors and wheel bearings (IIRC, you have to take that all apart to get the @#$%^&*! thing out, but could be wrong...) and a hydraulic press or sold vise and whatever needed to press those things out. If I remember right, you may have to pull the radius arm out from it's rear mounting bracket, which can be a PITA as well. You'll also have to at least take the shock loose from it's top mount to get the whole gamut to move into the position you need it in. Hope this helps some, and good luck on the repair!
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
I didn't have to remove the radius arm or otherwise mess with the suspension stuff to get to the outer axleshaft u-joint. Once the spindle comes off (which was the hardest part on my BII: that spindle was really seized on there), the outer half of the axleshaft slides out through the hole in the knuckle (or the entire axleshaft if you are also doing the driver's side u-joint).
Are you just changing the outer u-joint, or are you also going to tackle the inner u-joint on that axleshaft? I've heard of people trying to replace that u-joint without removing the axleshaft from the diff. Official procedure is to remove the shaft from the diff, which means opening the front diff to remove the C-clip that holds the passenger axleshaft inside the diff. Some say it is just easier to do it "by the book" than try to remove the axleshaft. Basically, I just wanted to point out that there is a lot more disassembly needed to get to the inner u-joint.
One last thing I will point out: the retaining clips are on the inside of the yoke, rather than on the outside of the cap like you see on driveshaft u-joints. Make sure you find and remove the retaining clips before you start pressing: it will be a lot easier.
Are you just changing the outer u-joint, or are you also going to tackle the inner u-joint on that axleshaft? I've heard of people trying to replace that u-joint without removing the axleshaft from the diff. Official procedure is to remove the shaft from the diff, which means opening the front diff to remove the C-clip that holds the passenger axleshaft inside the diff. Some say it is just easier to do it "by the book" than try to remove the axleshaft. Basically, I just wanted to point out that there is a lot more disassembly needed to get to the inner u-joint.
One last thing I will point out: the retaining clips are on the inside of the yoke, rather than on the outside of the cap like you see on driveshaft u-joints. Make sure you find and remove the retaining clips before you start pressing: it will be a lot easier.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Atlanta GA
I think the hardest thing to remove is the spindle. Once it is free it is an easy job. Once I had everything lubed with anti-seize on my B2 I could remove and install a new axle shaft in about 70 minutes. That includes torquing everything to spec.
If your spindle is really stuck, there are topics on removing it. I posted a few years ago about how to notch it so you can use an air hammer to free it up.
If your spindle is really stuck, there are topics on removing it. I posted a few years ago about how to notch it so you can use an air hammer to free it up.
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we now have instructions and an exploded diagram to work with, we're going to get started tomorrow afternoon. i'm thinking we'll pull the wheel off, stare at the rotor for 2 minutes, get another beer, then discuss whether we should procede or not. 3 hours from that point we'll put the wheel back on and tell each other we made the right choice.
we'll see what happens, i'm guessing there will be lots of cussing and beer breaks...err, um i mean stop and asses the situation breaks.
thanks for the input
we'll see what happens, i'm guessing there will be lots of cussing and beer breaks...err, um i mean stop and asses the situation breaks.
thanks for the input
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Ah, I was probably mixing up a couple of different front end procedures (and vehicles, for that matter). Spindle & rotor stuff off, shaft comes out, aside from full removal requiring opening up the diff. I almost forgot about the retainer clips on the axle shaft u-joints... OOPS.
