Towing questions
I am going to factory order an F-350 XLT Crew cab SRW 4x4 with the V10 soon. I tow a gooseneck flatdeck 23' with a total load of about 14k#. This includes the trailer and does not account for any weight transfer. I will be in the city probably 95% of the time. I also have a conventional trailer with a max weight of 7k#.
The truck comes with a 4.10 axle ratio rated for 14,100 5th wheel. For a few hundred bucks I can get them to put in the 4.30 to bump the rating to 16,100 (also GCWR is raised 2k#). For my needs will this help or hinder mileage and will it maybe have a longer life for the weight of the load? Is this option worth the cost?
For the 100$ for the camper package or heavy service front end would anyone put it in? Upgrade to heavier factory front springs, rear stabilizer bar, slide in camper cert, and auxillary rear springs. I dont plan to do winches, plows, or a camper. I do the odd time have 3k plus loads in the bed. This package sounds like it would help with overall feel and durability. Would the auxillary spring be the same as an overload spring? I'm guessing yes. I hear that it is a great thing to have when operating near max GVWR or max rear axle rating.
Towing in 4 wheel drive. I live in the land of ice and snow. Sometimes I have to shift to 4 wheel just to get my equipment to work. Is there any recommendations about this? Is it wise to shift back whenever possible? Should you be shifting in tow/haul mode or not? I will be reading the manual when the new rig arrives. I am just curious to what the pros think.
If there are any suggestions or tips on what I can factory order, or what is cost effective and easily installed, please feel free.
The other thing I'd consider is the power back window. I like to listen to the load while I'm driving, if the weather permits.
As far as springs and other towing options go, it sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what you're going to need.
Good luck,
4x4 is fine to start out in, just keep it in 4H so you can shift out of it while moving. You can't shift out of 4L without stopping. You can't shift in or out of 4x4 if you are driving over 45-55mph (depending on temp) but in your case if you just need the extra traction to move, you won't be using it over 10-20mph. 4H comes in veeeery handy when you are on wet grass trying to start a heavy trailer.
Yes, use tow-haul mode at all times when pulling a heavy load like that. You will appreciate the difference, and its far superior to the old OD-lockout. If I'm hauling more than 4-5k I always leave it on. But my Fords have just had the OD button, which I normally ignored unless the transmission was searching. The chevy has the tow/haul.
I am going to factory order an F-350 XLT Crew cab SRW 4x4 with the V10 soon. I tow a gooseneck flatdeck 23' with a total load of about 14k#. This includes the trailer and does not account for any weight transfer. I will be in the city probably 95% of the time. I also have a conventional trailer with a max weight of 7k#.
The truck comes with a 4.10 axle ratio rated for 14,100 5th wheel. For a few hundred bucks I can get them to put in the 4.30 to bump the rating to 16,100 (also GCWR is raised 2k#). For my needs will this help or hinder mileage and will it maybe have a longer life for the weight of the load? Is this option worth the cost?
For the 100$ for the camper package or heavy service front end would anyone put it in? Upgrade to heavier factory front springs, rear stabilizer bar, slide in camper cert, and auxillary rear springs. I dont plan to do winches, plows, or a camper. I do the odd time have 3k plus loads in the bed. This package sounds like it would help with overall feel and durability. Would the auxillary spring be the same as an overload spring? I'm guessing yes. I hear that it is a great thing to have when operating near max GVWR or max rear axle rating.
Towing in 4 wheel drive. I live in the land of ice and snow. Sometimes I have to shift to 4 wheel just to get my equipment to work. Is there any recommendations about this? Is it wise to shift back whenever possible? Should you be shifting in tow/haul mode or not? I will be reading the manual when the new rig arrives. I am just curious to what the pros think.
If there are any suggestions or tips on what I can factory order, or what is cost effective and easily installed, please feel free.

On an F-350, the camper package includes the items you mentioned with the exception of the auxiliary springs as they are already standard on F-350s. It is definitely worth the price. The front springs included with the camper package are a 1+ upgrade from the already specified springs. There are several different front springs for these trucks and they are selected at the factory by the weight of installed options, engine, and other factors.
The Torqshift transmission is super stout and an excellent transmission. When you are towing heavy, leave it in tow/haul mode. This holds the transmission in gear longer and keeps the engine in its optimum powerband and when going downhill or slowing down, it downshifts itself to help slow the truck reducing brakewear and enhancing safety.
Ford has made the trailer towing mirrors standard now which was an excellent idea. They are, in my opinion, the best on the market. Other than the camper package, your truck should have all the equipment already in place to tow what you need. Unless you are going to install something heavy such as a winch, etc., I would not recommend the heavy front suspension package. I would recommend the snowplow package though, as it includes the heavy duty alternator and if you have already selected the camper package, it should not increase the front spring rate much.
With regard to the 4WD question, It is generally safe to shift into 4-HI at speeds up to 55 MPH. This has been a point of contention among owners but I wouldn't recommend shifting into it at any higher speeds. Do not use 4WD on dry roads (asphalt, concrete, etc.) You can shift out of 4WD at any time. Unless you just want the convenience of the electronic 4WD, I would recommend the manual transfer case (4WD shifter in the floor) for a few reasons. First, it is virtually problem-free. A lot of owners have had problems with the ESOF system when it comes to vacuum issues and electronic problems. Second, if you tow a lot and have to back up any kind of inclines, you can leave the hubs unlocked and shift the transfer case into 4-LOW. By doing this, you essentially have 2WD low because the transfer case is locked and the hubs are not, and you can back up with the 4-LOW gear reduction without the binding of 4WD.
Hope this helps some and good luck with your purchase.
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Wow, I hope so. Got my hopes up for a certain build (and price). Ordering in late May/ early June would be ideal for me. Hope the rebate is still in effect.
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On an F-350, the camper package includes the items you mentioned with the exception of the auxiliary springs as they are already standard on F-350s. It is definitely worth the price. The front springs included with the camper package are a 1+ upgrade from the already specified springs. There are several different front springs for these trucks and they are selected at the factory by the weight of installed options, engine, and other factors.
The Torqshift transmission is super stout and an excellent transmission. When you are towing heavy, leave it in tow/haul mode. This holds the transmission in gear longer and keeps the engine in its optimum powerband and when going downhill or slowing down, it downshifts itself to help slow the truck reducing brakewear and enhancing safety.
Ford has made the trailer towing mirrors standard now which was an excellent idea. They are, in my opinion, the best on the market. Other than the camper package, your truck should have all the equipment already in place to tow what you need. Unless you are going to install something heavy such as a winch, etc., I would not recommend the heavy front suspension package. I would recommend the snowplow package though, as it includes the heavy duty alternator and if you have already selected the camper package, it should not increase the front spring rate much.
With regard to the 4WD question, It is generally safe to shift into 4-HI at speeds up to 55 MPH. This has been a point of contention among owners but I wouldn't recommend shifting into it at any higher speeds. Do not use 4WD on dry roads (asphalt, concrete, etc.) You can shift out of 4WD at any time. Unless you just want the convenience of the electronic 4WD, I would recommend the manual transfer case (4WD shifter in the floor) for a few reasons. First, it is virtually problem-free. A lot of owners have had problems with the ESOF system when it comes to vacuum issues and electronic problems. Second, if you tow a lot and have to back up any kind of inclines, you can leave the hubs unlocked and shift the transfer case into 4-LOW. By doing this, you essentially have 2WD low because the transfer case is locked and the hubs are not, and you can back up with the 4-LOW gear reduction without the binding of 4WD.
Hope this helps some and good luck with your purchase.
Great! Thanks! I will definately go with the 4.30.
Do you know if the standard mirrors have the automatic folding feature and/or power adjustment for the glass. Or do you need to upgrade to the powerscope for that?
I dont plan on plowing with the truck, my little John Deere does that stuff. But you never know. I am trying to build a great work truck to keep for a long time. No extra bells and whistles that will cost a fortune to fix, and building for the future as much as possible.
I now have to sit and think about the manual 4wd now. You raise a great point about it. With the manual 4x4 do you get out and lock the hubs by hand? I often get stuck where I have to park and the ESOF has worked well in that situation. Just wondering how Gramps used to do it. J/k, but who wants a damn expensive electronic break-down ... not me.
Thanks for the advice, greatly appreciated.
Do you know if the standard mirrors have the automatic folding feature and/or power adjustment for the glass. Or do you need to upgrade to the powerscope for that?
I dont plan on plowing with the truck, my little John Deere does that stuff. But you never know. I am trying to build a great work truck to keep for a long time. No extra bells and whistles that will cost a fortune to fix, and building for the future as much as possible.
I now have to sit and think about the manual 4wd now. You raise a great point about it. With the manual 4x4 do you get out and lock the hubs by hand? I often get stuck where I have to park and the ESOF has worked well in that situation. Just wondering how Gramps used to do it. J/k, but who wants a damn expensive electronic break-down ... not me.
Thanks for the advice, greatly appreciated.

The biggest reason for the snowplow package is the heavy duty alternator. This could come in handy if you decide to add any components later that will require large amounts of power. It's not much of a price difference but is well worth it.
With the manual 4WD, you do have to manually lock the hubs. Having said that, it is simple enough to lock them in when you get ready to go out. If they are already locked, all you have to do is shift into 4WD when you want. While it may reduce gas mileage minimally, it is worth it in the long run. I have the ESOF and while it has been problem-free, I will get the manual case on my next truck just for the comfort of knowing I won't have to worry about the possibility of vacuum problems or ESOF failures when I need 4WD the most.
. I believe in researching thoroughly and arming myself with every bit of info I can get. It's not hard to go into a dealership and know more about the products than they do. I think it also helps to have the upper hand when it comes to this. If they find out right away that you know more about their vehicles than they do, it weakens them to an extent. Plus it is a waste of your time to go into a dealership and ask questions that they can't answer.When you get a chance, go online to Ford's Build and Price section and build your truck out with the options you want. Then go to Edmund's or KBB and you can do the same but you can get invoice price as well. Great negotiating tool.
. I believe in researching thoroughly and arming myself with every bit of info I can get. It's not hard to go into a dealership and know more about the products than they do. I think it also helps to have the upper hand when it comes to this. If they find out right away that you know more about their vehicles than they do, it weakens them to an extent. Plus it is a waste of your time to go into a dealership and ask questions that they can't answer.When you get a chance, go online to Ford's Build and Price section and build your truck out with the options you want. Then go to Edmund's or KBB and you can do the same but you can get invoice price as well. Great negotiating tool.
Haha, for sure. I just told a salesman earlier most of the standard features for the XLT. I have built an army of them on the Ford website. My wife thinks I'm obsessive compulsive. She's right.






