Ok, when it shifts into second it take's a bit and will slip then Bump in to second. Not every time but often. Now took it to a big national shop and the said its probably a actuation pump...i think, or they said a shift kit would correct the problem. They wouldn't be sure till the pan was dropped. They said about 400-450 installed. Sooo, I called another local shop that does only Trannys and they said with 160,000 on the clock, a shift kit will not fix it. And they refuse to put one in. They are well known and have had one build by them before, $2350 rebuild, and install.

But, I found one on CL its out of a 89 f250 4x4 for $700 completly rebuilt upgraded parts, with about 300 miles on it. Will it work? What do you think may be the problem? Should I just buy the one off of CL and ask for proof, or???

 

1989 is a bad year for the E4OD. There had better be some upgrades in that transmission if you are to take it. If there is a list of internal upgrades, that would help because there is a long list of things that need to change for that year to be considered as reliable as a 1994.

Is there any pattern to the slide bump condition?

temperature related?

Loade related?

completely random??

 

a misadjusted or bad fipl can cause it also

 

the 89 he says, it had "everything inside replaced". "3 shift cylinders", "clutches, gaskets, and a Heavy duty Shift kit". No paper work, A buddie's father who works at a shop, for the past 25 years did it off the clock at the shop.
It seems to slip more the you stay in it, with no load. I have not had a load in it yet. I don't think the temp changes anything. Not completely random. If i hold the petal down it will do it every time.

 

If you know the builder, then that could be good, but unless the OD planetary and center support have been replaced with upgraded parts, I would avoid it. Shift kit or no shift kit, 1994 is actually a decent year for the E4OD and the stock 1989 is trouble.

Did this start suddenly or over time gradually get worse?

I think the 'big national' shop was referring to the accumulator body as the problem. Its possible (you could replace it in your driveway), but it could also be other things like the sensor on the side of the injector pump that trans tech referred to. Would be too bad to have to replace the whole transmission if all that was wrong with yours is a section of the valve body that can be replaced by dropping the pan or simply a sensor.

If there are times when it grabs firm even under load (floored) and up to temperature, then the cutch packs are probably good. That means a rebuild is probably not needed.

 

Spoke with another trans shop He seemed very knowledgeable. So Ill take it to him and let him take a look. Will let you know how it turns out.

 

OK, the transmission shop said that the motor wouldn't idle. So he couldn't give me any sure answers. But he said it was throwing a 65 code. Something to do with the computer not seeing the OD?.?. But it is working we both confirmed that.

Since then I took it to a shop. I had the compression checked. (good) New injectors, had a fuel leak on the down side fixed. And since they were in there, I had them turn up the pump. (im sure this wont help with the tranny) They said to baby the tranny. With 160000 on it, it may be due. I did notice that it don't slip if ease the gas and stay out of it. But not sure about being under a load yet.

I'm going to take it back the the tranny shop again and see if he can tell whats up now. If not, then...

With all that in mind I will keep my eye out for a replacement tranny. What years should I steer away from?

 

Avoid 1989 unless its been rebuilt and documented to post 1995 specs.

Anything that has come from a ford dealer is generally good because it has all the latest updates.

Easing off the pedal tells me that the clutch pack may be worn out. Would make sense considering the age and year.

1994 would be ideal in your case for the sake of the PCM working with the transmission as well as it bing a fair model year for durability.

 

I forgot to add that the compression check numbers. The all were between 400-450. The lowest was 400. Ill take it easy, and keep my eye out for a newer style...just found a 90. Ill keep looking.

Thanks for all the info!!

 

Slow down and read Ford Trans Tech's post..... the FIPL is the gadget on the drivers side of the IP..... If it is misadjusted it can cause your problem.

A/T - E40D FIPL Sensor Trouble Shooting & Adjustment

TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 186A

TRANSMISSION: E4OD

SUBJECT: FIPL troubleshooting & adjustment procedures

APPLICATION: Ford

DATE: Jan 1994

E4OD
FIPL Trouble Shooting & Adjustment Procedures (Diesel Applications Only)




Poor transmission performance and/or premature transmission failure may be caused by a defective Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL) sensor, or sensor signal. The sensor is located on the Fuel Injection Pump (Figure 1) and is used to inform the Transmission Control Unit Assembly (computer) of throttle position.

Ford Motor Company recommends that the FIPL be checked or replaced every 50,000 miles. However, it is possible for a FIPL sensor to fail at less than 50,000 miles. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you install a new "upgraded" FIPL sensor when a transmission overhaul is performed on any diesel applications.

You should also be aware that early design FIPL sensors are not as desirable as late design sensors.

Another potential concern is that the wiring harness leading to the FIPL sensor may be broken or shorted to ground. Closely inspect the harness where it is routed across the top of the engine to the FIPL sensor. The natural vibration of a diesel engine can easily wear through the wiring insulation where it contacts the engine, brackets, etc.

Note The voltage specification for signal return (item 2, page 2) was incorrect on the original bulletin. Remove original # 186 from your files and replace it with this revised bulletin. # 186A.

Note For testing and adjustment information see following information.

TESTING THE FIPL SENSOR

Note During these tests the negative lead of the voltmeter MUST be connected directly to the negative battery post and the computer and FIPL harnesses must not be disconnected.



1. Wire A is reference voltage sent to the sensor from the computer ORANGE/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be approximately 5 volts.

2. Wire B is the ground path from the FIPL sensor to the computer BLACK/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be volts?? or less.

3. Wire C is the throttle opening signal sent to the computer from the FIPL sensor . TEST With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF and the throttle at idle position, voltage should be approximately 1.2 volts. With The throttle fully open, voltage should be approximately 4.5 volts. ORANGE/WHITE (CENTER WIRE)


The sweep from 1.2 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at full throttle should be smooth. A meter with a snapshot or min/max capture mode is useful to catch intermittent "opens".

If the previously described range cannot be attained, FIPL adjustment can be achieved by rotating the sensor (on its bracket) one way or the other until the voltage values are satisfactory.


.................................................. ................................................

DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO
DATE 1992
REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate
RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles with the late gray colored FIPL.
PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C

 

Definatly check this out. You don't want to replace a tranny and find yourself in the same situation as before after spending $1000 or more and alot of time under the truck when its just a FIPL. It is a very critical part that lets the Transmission controler determin shift points, line pressure, torqe converter lock, downshift on hard acceleration, ect. A bad one for example may not let the computer know to increase the line pressure when you mash the throttle therefore the clutches will slip and eventually burn up..... All because of this little sensor. Its very cheap and somewhat easy to test. Id just put a new one one and MAKE SURE YOU PROPERLY ADJUST THE THING. Someone else will have to leave you ADJUSTMENT procedures as I have forgoten how. Good luck.

 

Ok Here is what I did.
Key on, It read. (top wire) 0.02, (middle wire) 0.98, (bottom wire) 5.03

Then someone pushed the petal to the floor. The Middle wire jumped to 3.85.
Let off the petal and it sat at 1.3 at idle. (did this 3 times and the numbers stayed pretty much the same.)

Now the truck is not warm. It has been sitting overnight during the test. What is your take on my numbers?

 

How smoothly did the numbers change? Any spikes or dead spots will throw the system out of wack. The minimum and maximum seem to be normal from what you posted.

 

Hmm, Dont know. I will have to check that tomorrow. How about that number on the top wire, that normal?

 

Yes it is normal, thats the ground wire.