Im getting that front end clunk!

My truck has 70K on it so its time to take care of it. I know i will be keeping this truck for a VERY long time so i want to do it all right!! I plow and tow quite a bit so i know i want to fit it all at once and fix it right.

I have an MBRP turbo back 4" w/ 6" tip\
tripple gauge pod w/ pyro / boost /trans
SCT X3 tuner w/ street / tow and race tunes

This is what i know i need:

2" levling kit
Upper / Lower ball joints for both sides w/ grease fittings
Sway bar end links
Sway bar bushings

Full Transmission flush
front diff flush
rear diff flush
transfer case flush

I just got brand new BFG All Terrain tires so i want to buy a new set of 16" wheels too. I know i want them to be black or black and chrome. Know any good brands that sell a 16" wheel?? I need something i can run year round. I live in NY and the salt is NASTY here in the winter!!

Can you guys think of anything else? Can you think of any specific brands of parts that are better than others? Any advise?

Thank you for your help, i appreciate it very much.

 

MOOG makes some quality ball joints (O'Reilley's I believe, maybe others). Dynatrac has come out with some re-buildable ball joints (not available yet, but soon). Beck Arnley ball joints are good I hear - just don't know where to get them.

If you jack up your front end and them put a pry bar under the wheel, you can check to see if it has play in the ball joints. Play up-and-down only usually means ball joints. Have someone pry up on the wheel while you are under the truck watching the ball joints. Play side-to-side may mean wheel bearings.

Others have experienced the sway bar (stabilizer bar) end link failure as well. Energy Suspension is a good brand to look for here.

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 673pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=897 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 673pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 32804" width=897><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 673pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=897 height=17>Tie Rod Ends</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 673pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=897 height=17>To check for bad tie rod ends have someone grab the front and back of the tire and move in and out. Check for tie rod end play. If there is any, it will be obvious.

Good luck and keep posting!
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Thanks for the heads up..

 

If you get a tranny flush done, take it to a shop that has the "heated flush" machine. Most likely place would be a dealership. Fill w/ Mercon SP only.

I changed out the transfer case oil in mine - very easy. I used Royal Purple Synchromax. RP also makes some good differential fluid. The fluid for the rear differential already has the friction modifier in it so you do not have to add anything extra (if you have a limited slip differential).

 

Can i tell if i have limited slip by the vin? It only gives me a 1 wheel peel and i hate it!!! how hard is it to make it limited slip?

 

Look on your door tag or the rear diff cover (will have metal tab on one of the bolts.) I had the 1 wheel burn out issue not to long ago until I flushed it and put in new fluid. Then it went to 2 wheel burnout

 

Thats awesome!! I plan to change the fluid in the near future anyway! cool. Thanks for the help!!

 

If you have a 3L code, it is a limited slip, I would buy oil without modifier and add half only, see how it works, if it chatters, add a 1/8 at a time till the chattering stops and you are getting a two wheel spin. Sometimes to much in there and adding the full amount will still be a one wheel peel. I need to do this on mine I am getting close to due for some serious quality time with HER!

 

X2 on the gear lube without the modifier. I've had much better results adding the modifier a little bit at a time. The specs on the sterling can be misleading.

 

Thats crazy!! I appreciate the heads up.