My truck is an '03 XL; manual transfer case and locking hubs, 112K on the clock.

After using the 4wheel drive last month I developed a vibration in the front end. It was about time to rotate the tires so I did, no difference. I pulled the front wheels and check the wheel bearings, tight.

I then pulled the right side locking hub assembly, it had a little play to I disassembled it to grease it up. The bearings and sleeves turned out to be moderately worn. I packed it with grease and put it back together. Checked the left side and it was tight, like new but I greased it anyway.

The vibration is a lot less but still there; if I lock the hubs, it goes away.

I'll be replacing the hub or both hubs with an aftermarket soon.

 

You sure it's not the needle bearing on the back side of the hub assembly where the axle enters? I've read where they can cause a vibration that goes away when the hubs are locked because the axle now is turning with the bearing and not just spinning inside it. Another way to check is with the lock outs unlocked, spin the axle by hand at the U-joint and see if it feels gritty or ratchety.

 

I pulled the wheel bearing and checked the needle bearing. It was in good condition; I greased it up while it was apart.

I would like to know if the right hub fails more often then the left hub. I think it would with the torsion of the longer axle, not to mention it that's the side always in the gutter.

I switched the hubs from left to right and right to left thinking that may make the lose hub last a little longer. We'll see.

 

With the hubs unlocked, are the u-joints turning free? As in, are the hubs really unlocking?

 

Yes, curb side everything wears faster, break more often. Its a lot harsher environemnt over their by the curb, more potholes, gets into the curb more often ect ect.

 

Krewat,

The hubs are unlocked as I did spin the axle shafts to check it out. I think I'll be changing the hubs before the fall or if the vibration comes back. I would hate to have to change a wheel bearing because of a needle bearing failure!

The swaping end-for-end seems to have made a difference in a good way. I thinking as part of routine maintenance the hubs should be greased and swaped end-for-end every 50K.

I've been looking at the Warn premium manual locking hubs; I like the classic look of them over their standard offering.

 

I just changed out my driver side wheel bearing assembly due to a vibration. After the new bearing was installed, I still have a vibration. The vibration is only present when the manual hubs are locked in. Next on my list is to change out the u-joint. I changed out the passenger side last year, so I imagine the drivers side is failing now causing the vibration.
JEV