Hi,
I have a qustion or a problem????
I am not to educated in paint,first to admit.I do mostly prep work,a good friend does the paint.
OK,
My question.,
I was supposed to buy base/clear for my truck.That is what my friend told me,he said go with urethane.
Now,the story.
I called the place where i get materials and told them i wanted base/clear urethane,they said urethane base?They said there is no such thing.But i thought that was what i needed,urethane base??So i orderd my custom mix of colors(70 Ford two-tone)
and made the 120 mile round trip to pick it all up,and i got evrything i needed,BUT!,I get home and notice the urethane paint says single stage?So,i called them and they said thats what you wanted ,urethane paint,and urathane clear,so will this work in my two-tone aplication?THere will be alot of masking because of the two tone and i needed clear becuase it's a metallic and i want to be able to sand the clear for a real paint job.Do you see a problem with this?
My friend is out of town and you came to mind to ask!
Basically what i am saying is the urethane is not a true base is it?It has gloss properties in it so will it dry right for masking?and what about the clear?
I am pissed and confused,i tlaked to my friend before he left which was right after i bought the paint but didnt get to tell him that they said it would work,but will it?
I hope you can understand what i am sayingand look forward to your response(anybody else jump in too!!
THanks.
...blue


1970 f250 4x4

 

Blue,
First let me say that I agree with your friend on urethane finishes.They are without a doubt the best to date.
Most modern basecoats are polyesters of one form or another.
As for your delima, it is ok to use the single stage paints as basecoats only if you allow adequate time for solvent evaporation to occur. (Approx. 4 hrs. in a heated booth) before applying the clear. Why? Because paint cures or dries as the solvents from within evaporate away and leave only the hardened urethane (in this case) & pigment. This process is sped up in catalyzed finishes through a chemically induced heat process. (much like bondo) Single stage paints are generally a lot thicker & more condensed than base-coat. Meaning a longer cure time. In other words, you must give the solvents in the thicker single-stage more time to evaporate before sealing them off with clear-coat. If you don't, they will still make their way to the top but AFTER the surface of the clear has already started to "create it's skin" if you will. Thus causing thousands of tiny pinholes in the clear. This is affectionately referred to as "solvent pop". Not a good thing. NOTE- this can also occur when standard base-coat is over catalyzed.
In your case though it presents a problem because at least one of the base colors is a metallic. Generally a 4 hr. window between coats requires re-scuffing the base-coat for adhesion. This is a no-no with metallics. Re-scuffing metallics disturbs the flow of the metallic particles & becomes HIGHLY visible once cleared. I really need more specifics on the paint brand to go further with the advice bit. (pant,pant...)
Hope I didn't get carried away.
LMK, Casey

 

Hey Thanks.
It dont sound to good for me does it?
THe paint is a not name brand expensive paint,it only cost me 275 for al materials.It's alot to me though

Super AmerThane from American Finishes is the colors.
UC 200 High Solids urethane clear.Probably not much help but the paint cans dont say much else far as what it is.
After reading what you wrote,it seems my friend is the one who screwed up and not telling me about what the base really was!!!
I cant take the paint back cause it's not a off the shelf colors.
I had tham mixed.
Well thanks for the info.
...blue


1970 f250 4x4

 

 

Blue,
No reason to be down.
Remedy- Apply your sealer and s/stage base. Allow the 4 hr. cure phase. Next, lightly scuff the base (all over) with 600 grit paper (making sure to remove any orange peel or trash)
Next, wipe the truck as well as the masked areas again with the tack cloth. Apply one more thin/even coat of base to cover any disturbance that may have occurred in the metallic.
Allow 20 minutes to pass so that this coat can flash off.(begin to set) Now you can proceed with the clear-coat as usual.
Problem solved! LMK how it goes!
Casey

 

Thanks for responding!
I do have this problem,he doesn't have a actual booth at home.He has a super shop with heat and insulation but can't bake it.
Also,wont the last color coat you said need longer than 20 min to be actually dry for clear?
If i wait to long wont the clear peal??
I still dont know,but thanks for all your help.
1970 f250 4x4

 

Blue,
Remember, I said a thin coat. Add another 10% thinner to the final coat. But turn down the volume supply on the paint gun or it'll run! Also, I usually finish off a metallic base-coat by
opening the fan adjustment (all the way)on the gun & doubling the distance between the gun and the sheet metal.Then I "fog" if you will, another thin coat all the way around. This insures adequate distribution of the metallics. Thus, preventing that "cloudy or blotchy" look that is so often seen in metallic paint jobs. (even from the factory!)
So, don't wait any longer than 30 min. before top-coating.
NOTE: To determine if it's time to apply another coat, use your finger & touch the paint on the paper adjacent to the last panel painted. If it's wet or sticky, wait longer. If it doesn't try to stick to your finger, it's time!
Hey, where are you located? Maybe were closer than you think!
I could always spray it for ya'!
Hey, here's a link to a pic' of a 39 Ford that was restored at my dads shop & painted by me! :7
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3a70fccf13e35fce.jpg
Let me know what you think! Later, Casey

 

Casey,
That car looks good,i like your work.I think you and i are along ways apart.I live in KS.
THanks for the info,it makes good sense.My buddy will be back tommorow and i get to see what he thinks.I hope to god he talks like you are,i trust him,he is good but i dont know of he has ever shot clear over single stage metallic.Guess i'll see.

Thanks!
1970 f250 4x4

 

oleblue70 what part of Kansas are you located in Im in the northeast part of Kansas.I use to work as a body and paint man for International Harvester on semi trucks. Casey the finish on that 39 is very slick!!!!

 

THANKS!

 

Howdy,
I live south of Atchison.Where ever you lie i already know where it's at!NE KS is small.I know people in Brown,Doniphon,Jackson.
...blue

1970 f250 4x4

 

I just read your user profile.I dont know anyone in Lawrence but i do go to the swap meet every year.They should call it the Chevy swap meet cause thatsa all it is but sometimes there is some good stuff!I'm sure you go also.
What else is there in Lawrence for auto people?
Later.
1970 f250 4x4

 

oleblue70 were alot closer than you think I live in southern Leavenworth county I work in Lawrence.As for auto stuff in Lawrence the swap meet is about it I work with several people who are in a street rod club.I haven't been to the swap meet for a few years I always felt price's on things were high with not enough Ford stuff.

 

I agree 100% on the variety at the swap meet.
I mainly go to be at a swap meet and eye ball stuff.I mostly go for the little odd ball stuff at the venders that are there and handy.
Alot of Chevy stuff.
I dont know about you but i honestly think you could equip a 57 Chevy with every peice of trim offered with one trip to Lawrence!!!
Later,
...blue
1970 f250 4x4