I'm surprised you guys don't already have a thread like this (or maybe I missed it) but I'm looking at buying a 1969 F250. I'm pretty much at the point in the deal where we need to discuss price and I need to drive over to pick it up. I'm nervous since I've never really bought an old car/truck before, so can you guys give me advice on things to look for? I know to look at wear items (hoses, tires, etc.) but is there anything specific to these trucks that I need to look at? It has the 390 engine, 2wd, and auto trans. When I pick it up it will be making a 150-200 mile drive/tow back to my place so I want to look it over COMPLETELY before I get behind the wheel. Thanks!!

 

i dont know if it applies to these old fords or not, maybe someone can chime in, but normally when towing an automatic you must disconnect the driveshaft. if the transmission is spinning in nuetral at 70mph and the pump which is normally driven by the engine is not running then it will not get lubed. make sure the truck is cold when you go to look at it. if the engine is warm the reason is normally that an engine with problems is harder to start when cold then it is to start when its already warmed up, and the seller warmed it up because he does not want you to know this. bring a compression tester with you and test all the cylinders, while you have all the spark plugs out loosen the belts also, take the distributor cap off, grab a good hold of the crankshaft pulley and rock it back and forth while watching the rotor of the distributor. open the door and hood, reach your arm in the truck and rock the steering wheel while watching the rag joint. there should be no play. pull the wheels off, pull the hubs off, check the wheel cylinders if it has drums, check the rotors and pads if it has discs. check the level and condition of all the fluids. look under the vent duct for any residue and evidence of heater core leakage. while you have the front end jacked up wiggle the wheels, and wiggle the linkages for the suspension and steering, make sure nothing wiggles and is solid. disconnect the driveshaft and inspect the ujoints. make sure they have full range of motion with ease. pull off the dust cover on the front of the bellhousing and inspect the condition of the teeth on the flexplate (flywheel)
take the valvecovers off, loosen the valve rails, remove the pushrods, take note to which ones were which, roll them on a table. check the points gap in the distributor, hold the brake pedal down, make sure it dont sink and maintains solid pressure.

 

Cab mounts right under the footwells, and chances are very good it's not a 390, especially if it's a 2BBL.
Also, check the underside of the cowl. On my 69 F250 this was rusted clean through, and everything I could find said that truck basically spent it's life on Bainbridge Island.
Other than corrosion, there's not much to worry about on these old trucks.

 

Although unusual I recently looked at a camper special that had the frame rusted to the point that I did not feel that it was safe to drive. I think that truck is still for sale. Also check the tranny fluid. Is it burnt looking or does it smell burnt? The bottom line is the truck is not new and it is going to have problems. The question is,what is it going to take to fix it and is it worth it to you.

 

When was it last driven? That will determine what all you need to do to make it roadworthy. Check all the normal mechanicals, tires, hoses, belts, oil, tranny fluid, water, brake fluids. Look behind each wheel to see if brake cylinders are leaking. If it starts easily, runs smooth, goes into gear fine then likely it would make the trip. By the sounds of it, you haven't driven it? Is it a project vehicle?

Look for rust under cab mounts, inner fenders-around hinges, core support mounts, cowl area, under cab area, bed seams(outside), across roof(above winshield). Washington state usually has some solid trucks, so hopefully this one is.

 

Ford_Six: why do you doubt it's a 390? The one I'm trying to replicate was a 390.... but I know that particular truck was rare as far as options/packages go.

I'm not sure when it was last driven... I know it was in for service just a few months ago. The guy who owns it is a student at a University about 1.5 hours from the truck. He's selling it to get money for school but he originally had it as a rebuild project. I haven't driven it as I live about 2-2.5 hours from where the truck is so it will be a trip out to drive and hopefully bring home. We have to bring it over the pass and I'll probably just tow it over the pass just so I'm not pushing my luck.


Thanks for all the help. I'm making a checklist so keep 'em coming. And if/when I finally get a '69 I'm sure you'll be hearing more from me.

 

These FE's all LOOK the same, don't assume anything. All blocks were cast with "352" on the front, so that doesn't mean anything. Usually the motor gets "bigger" when selling. Nobody wants the 352/360, so the 390 automatically "gets installed" when selling. Checking bore/stroke is the only way to know what it is. Previous owner might not even know for sure? Maybe they do? If the motor was rebuilt, ask for paperwork. Back in the day the truck could have been ordered with any motor, so it's hard to say what it has in it today. The door tag says 390, but it's had 3? motors since that day? Who knows for sure? Just want you to be aware.

 

I really appreciate it... and exactly why I came to you guys. If it's a Ranger I have it in the bag but anything else, especially this age I get kinda lost. So there's no way to tell what motor it is without actually having it tested??

 

Well, using a piece of coat hanger, stuck down the spark plug hole with piston at BDC, mark how far it goes in. Turn crank til TDC and stick hanger in and mark. Measure distance between the marks. This will ballpark, if you do it accurately enough. The 390 is 3.78 stroke, the 360 is 3.50 stroke. We're only talking a 1/4" difference, so you have to be as accurate as possible.