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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 04:27 PM
  #16  
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stangman516
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What'd you guys torque the frame/shackle bolts as well as the U-bolts to?

I'll be puttin my new DR front springs on friday. i'm already soaking the bolts in PB Blaster
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 07:04 PM
  #17  
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I'm not sure what the torque specs are anymore.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 07:53 AM
  #18  
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Front bolt/nut is 203lb-ft and the rear bolt/nut is 195lb-ft.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 08:16 AM
  #19  
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SGnAZ
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Originally Posted by brian42
Front bolt/nut is 203lb-ft and the rear bolt/nut is 195lb-ft.
Did you get it all wrapped up?
I need to replace mine as well and was wondering how hard of a job was it?
Pics would be good.
Thanks
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 08:41 AM
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I just finished putting on the 'V' code springs yesterday. Not a difficult job, just hard. If you don't have access to a pneumatic impact wrench (I don't how much oomph the electric ones have) then you might want to reconsider doing this yourself. I spent a lot of time listening to the impact wrench hammer away, spraying PB Blaster and beating a breaker bar with a BFH. Not to mention I had it hoisted up on a 6 ton hydraulic lift with a floor jack to support the axle.

I don't remember where I found it, but I used somebody's write-up in the Excursion section of FTE (lots of pictures). The write-up said that he re-used his u-bolts because he got the wrong size, but I don't recommend that. Everything I've ever read and been told is NEVER re-use the u-bolts (in fact, there's a HUGE warning in the Ford service manual about that as well). The interference I had to remove to do this job is: wheels, lower shock bolt, bumber side bracket, radiator support, front drive shaft (if you have a 4wd), sway bar, whatever the big bar is called that is just behind the bumber valance and had 3 nuts on the front of each frame rail and my track bar (which is a PITA to line back up by the way, make sure your truck is on the ground before you start lining it up).

All in all it took me just over 8 hours to complete (both sides). My old springs (V code) had 177K and 6 years on 'em and with my new springs the front sits about 1/2" higher (I had to re-adjust my mirrors ).

I contemplated going up to the X code, but figured that it would be too rough for daily use. The new V codes feel stiffer anyway since my old ones were quite worn, so it feels like I moved up a code anyway. I'll have to wait and see once they settle in to see how much of that 1/2" I'll keep. I wasn't worried about the height anyway, just putting some new ones on.

If anybody is considering doing this here are some of the torque specs you'll need:

Front spring frame mount: 203ft-lb
Rear spring frame mount: 195ft-lb (for where the spring goes into bracket)
Radiator support: 80in-lb
Lower shock mount: 76ft-lb
U-bolt nut: 99ft-lb

Here are the part numbers that I used for my 2003 PSD:
2C3Z-5310-HA V code front spring
F81Z-5705-ZA U-bolt (shackle)
N805480-S462 U-bolt nut
W704660-S426 Front spring mount bolt (beware, this giant bolt runs about $20)
N80765-S441 Nut for front bolt
W500593-S439 Rear sprint mount bolt (spring to bracket mount, NOT bracket to frame)
N800237-S301 Nut for rear bolt

Don't know if this info will help anybody, but at least it's out there for anybody that wants it.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 08:50 AM
  #21  
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Great info-Thanks
Sending reps
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 11:32 AM
  #22  
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I went with the F550 springs in my 99 F250 when I broke one of my rear leafs. The back end deffinatly sits up alot higher. But I do ALOT of heavy towing with my trucks. With 18,000 on the goose she sits level. To me it did not change the ride quality but then again my trucks are usualy loaded pretty good. Its what I plan on doing with my 01 F350 in the near future.

But again I tow loads all day every day with my trucks.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 02:20 PM
  #23  
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Glad you got it all taken care of Brian.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 04:14 PM
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Me too!!! I felt guilty mooching rides to work for almost a week. I look back and am glad I got the V code. The added height would be nice, but as a daily driver it would have been a kidney buster ride! Not to mention that the wife and kids wouldn't enjoy a jolt over every crack and bump in the road (plus I've got stock size tires too).

I'm sore today, but it only cost me $35 and 2 bloody knuckles in labor compared to the $300 the shop wanted (I got a quote as high as $500 for labor alone). I've had the rig for a year and a half, put over 30K on it, hit the trails on the weekend and I've yet to put it in the shop. I've been able to fix everything that's broken and install my mods (more than what I've broken) without paying anybody to do it, but that's why we all bought our 7.3s right...
 
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