I have put a similar post in the engine forum...but I'm hoping for some input from the slick crew.

Just purchased a 352 short block with about 10K on it for my 1966 F250 Camper Special. I know..some'll say should've went 390...but that's not my style. Pardon my contrary retro-grade nature...

I'm going with Comp Cams Part
Exhaust Valve lift 0.562 Intake Valve lift 0.565
Exhaust Duration: 274 Intake Duration: 286

I have a 4bbl intake over which I'll put a Edelbrock or Holley 650.
Is that too much? or Can I go to a larger volume CFM carburetor?

The engine will have headers out 2.5 inch pipes out the back going on at re-install.

The heads that tagged along with the engine have adjustable rockers. I have no desire to tangle with those. 3~ cylinders show excess carbon build up which I suspect is due to out of spec valve adjustments...
Should I stick with these and get them adjusted by a mechanic? Can I use the non-adjustable valve train with this cam?

Also, Comp Cams website says I'll have to do 'machining on the cylinder heads.
What do they mean by that?

I've decided to go with dual point distributor (don't try to sell me on electronics ), again contrary retro-grade stubborness.

Can I get some feed back on these questions? I'm no mechanic....just a parts swapper.

Aside from installing new push rods and a high volume oil pump..can I get some advice as to what else I should do as I put the thing back together....??

TH1567
Hoping to have a mild sleeper. <!-- / message --><!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_sig --><!-- END TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_sig -->

 

I'm on board with most of your ideas except the dual point distributor. Why you'd want that headache over a simple electronic unit like a Pertronix escapes me. I'd keep the single points. Unless you expect to turn really high rpms (and a 352 won't) the DP has NO advantage over the stock distributor. Money wasted, IMO.

A Pertronix is a drop-in electronic upgrade for hotter, more reliable spark and has proven to be durable. Carry the points/plate with you if you fear a failure. It's worked for me for the last 5+ years.

 

I agree with your upgrades; on the carb, its reasonably to run 650 CFM; I beleive most folks drown thier engine's with to much carb; 650 range is good. I have a dual point on my 302, no problem so far, but will convert to electronic's some day. The only other upgrade I would go with is a higher output coil, don't know if its a improvement, but for under 50bucks Accel makes the extra spark.
I got a 65 model 352 with a factory 4bbl & intake waiting for the one day build and install in my 65 F100, this thread will be a good reference to my future plans for that engine as well.
Hopefully others will chime and give thier opinion's as well. Dual point isn't a headache until is fails.!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mitch

 

I will say up front that I don't know much about FE motors, but I do know motors in general. Seems to me you are overcamming. With valve lift numbers over .500 like that, you are definitely gonna prolly need a serious valve spring upgrade to avoid spring bind. And what is the duration at .050? I guess the better question, what grind from comp are you wanting to run? Those numbers may not be that large for an FE, but in SBC world where I spend most of my time, that is a pretty fat 'stick.

ROb

 

i have run into this very situation. the cam is a bit much for the rest of the motor and the distributor can(in my case it did), be a problem solver if you indeed want a little more suds than a stocker. i went to an advanced curve electronic distributor and it really woke up the ol gal down low where i wanted more chug. (however, your cam numbers are a bit more than mine. i kept it under 500). that and premium fuel will probably get you in the ball park of where you want the performance. as for the adjustable valves, with that cam, you'll probably want to keep them if they will adjust out right. comp cams might be refering to your compression when they mention machining. not sure there. hope this helps.

 

Duration at 0.50" is 230 Intake and 236 Exhaust. All I've read about the FE is that they need to breathe so I selected a cam that was 2 notches below the strip version....it was a guess and if it's totally wrong, I'll just return it unopened. Gots to be flexible on this 'cause I want it right and tight when I'm climbing that grapevine hill..

Since the engine is a 'short block' I can get the machining work done fairly inexpensively...that is to say if I need to boost compression.

Also, the springs are a concern....will have the machinist make sure they are right for the cam I've selected.

TH1567
Working on it.

 

Like I said before, I am no expert in FE affairs, but that just seems like an awful big cam. You might just call Comp and let them know what you have, and see what they recomend. But you don't want to sacrifice power down low if you are gonna be driving it on the street....you may end up with a motor that doesn't make power till 3000 rpm, and wont rev much past 4000.


ROb

 

Thanks....the spec sheet says, "....very strong mid range with headers, 2400+ stall and lower gears" Am I to take it that the engine won't 'make power' unless it up around 2400?

calling comp cams delivers ragged busy signal....must be keep trying...

TH1567
Keeping it below $1500....hopes to...

 

Rob et al,

Spoke to Comp....the power band on this cam runs from about 16-1800~ and tops out at 6200~. I've got an NP435 with a 4:10 axel so I'll ease into it as the engine winds up and I go through the gears. This truck mostly sits and when it goes, it goes loaded (not me, the truck). I aim to pull some kind of retro rv trailer wheel in the future. Should not be a problem.... I am thankful for you having pushed your concern so strongly esp since I went on my gut with this thing not really knowing a durned thing...

TH1567
Roll in a Ford or roll home.

 

Just to throw in 2 more cents:
About 12 years ago, I installed a Wolverine/Blue Racer Camshaft, with matching lifters and springs. They were a division of Crane Cams, but I'm not sure they're still available.
This cam is Grind#: 270-2H; Part#: WG1110K. It has an advertised duration of 270*/282* and 501”/533” lift @ zero lash and OEM 1.76 rocker arms.

I believe the profile is very similar to the cam that came with the 390 Police Intercepter package in cars of the day.
The cam power range is: 1500-4000rpms. My truck RARELY sees anything above 4000rpms.
It has been great in my F100 with a T-18 4speed for towing loads or just driving.
By the way, it also wears a 650 Holley on top and has headers out the bottom.


BarnieTrk

 

I have no problem with the 352, it was an awesome engine. Mine ran like a scolded dog with a holley 650, intake, cam, headers and 4:56 gears. I did want bigger, I would just stroke the 352, which is very easy to do. That way I would still have my original engine.

 

The stall is 2400? well that isn't going to go to well with a a stock converter (1700) IIRC Long story short, build the engine around the intended use, "don't just plop parts together expecting them to mesh" The FE forum can help with this. The guys are great over there and most all of them have FE's in a truck.

 

I agree with RedmanBob,,,, 2400 stall isn't any good for a work/towing/RV/hauling truck.

I'd suggest you build a package (cam, intake, carb, gearing) to make power from 1000 to 4500 rpms. Low rpm grunt is torque and that is what you need for towing and hauling....besides that NP435 isn't a hot rod trans anyway.

Your '66 352" equipped F250 is/will be a great work/hauling/towing truck package. I'd try to return the cam you have for a cam with a RV-use profile with a lower rpm range. You likely wouldn't need to machine your heads either with the RV cam. You should be able to use the rockers you have. Yes, invite your favorite mechanic over for a 'burger and ask him to make the proper cold lash adjustments prior to firing it up.

I prefer headers and dual exhaust (with a crossover before the mufflers) although they may put more heat into your floorboards in mid-August and during slow traffic days. And I'd prefer the Holley 650 over the Edelbrock 4bl carb, but that's a personal preference.

I agree, points are fine for the intended use (redline of less than 5K rpms) you've outlined. You just have to keep a spare set in the cuboard since you just can't stop down to your neighborhood parts store and pick them up - they typically aren't on the shelf any more these days. Electronic ignition has been here for over 20yrs now...

I would get the rotating assembly balanced (it doesn't cost THAT much more) and take care when assembling the engine.

Good Luck!
BarnieTrk

 

1) Carb size ok but no bigger
2) Stick with a single point electronic ignition and maybe play with the advance if desired
3) Headers good since no FE is good through their exhaust
4) Cam is way too big and I think a poor choice. I've been down that road and while I put up with it for years in my Cougar I got sick of it and changed it to a more streetable cam. Besides you either want HP to max out your speed or torque for driving around town. Stick to torque unless you're doing 1/4 miles you'll be happier as it is no fun driving an overcammed car. For example the Comp 252H or 260H and not that XE 274H. The first two don't require any head work or special springs. Then you can use non-adjustable rockers without a problem. One of those two cams is going into my converted 390.
5) A new cam means both new pushrods and new lifters
6) high volume oil pump not really needed. Simply use a good hardened drive and blue print a standard pump. You can also open the hole in the oil filter adapter to match the hole in the block.

 

I don't know if this would help you much, but when I was in high school, a friend of mine and me had matching 352's in 66's. We both modded them and we raced each other often. He found a set of heads on an unidentified FE motor in an old cop car and I never caught him again.

We both ran 4bls, RV cams, dual exhaust, pretty much everything you could buy for a 352 20 years ago. Nothing ever showed a REAL improvement like that set of heads, after that he would just flat blow me off the road, even after I dropped in a 390. We believed the motor that we took the heads off of to be a mid 60's 352 police interceptor but we weren't really sure and I can't even remember exactly what year the cop car was. I doubt you will ever find a set (I couldn't), but I bet milling and porting a set of stock heads would do the trick.