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Im interested in spraying my truck with spray paint. I have the typical Ford horizontal surface paint peel. I dont have the money to get the thing painted. So, I will spray it myself. Has anybody had good results with a certain paint?
Thanks
-Chris
Big Red Ticking 92 F150
Tick,Tick,Tick,Tick,Tick,Tick,Tick,Tick
I paid $272 for 2 gals PPG epoxy primer w/1 gal thinner, 2 gal PPG black pittane enamel with thinner (everything needed for a complete job)
I made the mistake of letting moisture into the line from the compressor and this caused me to have to re-shoot one fender. I'm using a $20 conventional spray gun and the results so far are very good.
I've also heard that the stuff from Napa is very good too and at a better price.
These are single stage (no base coat/clear coat) but they look great if applied and buffed properly.
The $20 is when it's on sale at Harbor freight tools and is usually $24. all it needs is a adapter to your air line ($.99) then you need a compressor in the range of 8+ cfm @ 40 psi. You can use a smaller compressor, but you'll have to take more breaks when painting.
You really need a good water filter, another $25. That's the basic setup.
Other notes, I use 400 grit for final pre-paint sanding and use Acetone for cleaning. Final cleaning should be a 'double wipe' one paper towel for applying acetone, second paper towel for cleaning off acetone and throw out the second paper towel often.
Fully clean the gun by running acetone or epoxy thinner BEFORE it drys or throw the gun away.
don't know if this is the best place, but here it goes, if you was repainting a clear coat factory job. would you use the same water based w/clear or just go to enamel? looking for the most durable first, shine second.
hello, when we paint vehicles at our garage, we use PPG brand. The paint or base coat is called Omni brand which is PPG's cheap paint. Then we use the good PPG clear coat. That is where you will see the difference, but a quality job all comes down to the prep work.
Did you mean to use real spray paint? I used rustoleum, and my truck turned out pretty good. I took it to bare metal and took my time doing it, and up to about 5 feet it looks good. If I had it to do over again, I would have bought a gallon of rustoleum and a cheap gun. I used way more than that ($$$) in spray cans. There is pics in my gallery if you want to see what I did.
I have done about a dozen vehicles with Nason brand acrylic enamels. All bodywork is done before I spray any primer/sealer. When this is dry, I go over the whole thing with 220 paper and then tack it off. Then a wipe down with wax/oil remover. I always use a catalyst in my reduced paint. I have always used a cup gun (Binks) with excellent results, but now I have a HVLP gun that I will use on my truck. Supposedly less overspray and easier to handle. Dont forget the Smoothie in the paint mix too, to prevent orange peel. When I have enough paint on it, I pull down the garage door and in an hour or so, its time to pull the tape off carefully. Then all the chrome, emblems, trim goes back on, usually in the next day or two, to make the sure the paint is hard. With the catalyst in the paint, it will be.