Original motor
The engine code is the 4th digit of the VIN:
B = 300-I-6 / H = 351M / S = 400.
Numbers matching is a GM thing.
The first thing you have to do is figure out the date your truck was made. The best way to do this is on the passenger side of the frame, approximately in the area between seat bracket bolts of the cab, and the warranty sticker of the drives door jamb. You will find the part number of your frame and a date of manufacture. Now that you have that you can compare the date of the assemblies of the block. The date code of the heads is under the valve cover, on the intake manifold in front of the carb, and the block behind the starter. Your codes will be four digits and start with an 8 or 9 depending on when your frame was made. Early in the module year will be an 8 late in the MY will be a 9. The second digit will be letter A-M corresponding to a month A= January M=December The letter “I” will never be used. The last two digits will be a number between 01 and 31 that corresponds to the day of the month. The rule of thumb is that the engine should have around the same date as your frame with in a month, but never newer than the assembly date on the door jamb. The chances of someone replacing your engine with the correct date code are very slim.
I hope this helps you out, if not don’t be afraid to ask more clarifying questions.
ND I do want to get into a peeing contest but, I believe it was a Federal requirement by the mid ‘70s to have a partial VIN somewhere on the drive train. I believe I read some where it was on the tail shaft of the tranny.
LSR490
The first thing you have to do is figure out the date your truck was made. The best way to do this is on the passenger side of the frame, approximately in the area between seat bracket bolts of the cab, and the warranty sticker of the drives door jamb.
You will find the part number of your frame and a date of manufacture.
Now that you have that you can compare the date of the assemblies of the block. The date code of the heads is under the valve cover, on the intake manifold in front of the carb, and the block behind the starter. Your codes will be four digits and start with an 8 or 9 depending on when your frame was made. Early in the module year will be an 8 late in the MY will be a 9. The second digit will be letter A-M corresponding to a month A= January M=December The letter “I” will never be used. The last two digits will be a number between 01 and 31 that corresponds to the day of the month. The rule of thumb is that the engine should have around the same date as your frame with in a month, but never newer than the assembly date on the door jamb. The chances of someone replacing your engine with the correct date code are very slim.
I hope this helps you out, if not don’t be afraid to ask more clarifying questions.
ND I do want to get into a peeing contest but, I believe it was a Federal requirement by the mid ‘70s to have a partial VIN somewhere on the drive train. I believe I read some where it was on the tail shaft of the tranny.
LSR490
Engine date codes are useless for finding out when the engine was originally installed, because engines are made by the 10's of 1000's at several different engine plants, then shipped to the assembly plants.
The dated block could have been installed months after it was assembled. Same thing goes for the heads, intake manifolds...you name it.
Ford frame ID numbers and dates are (usually) stamped on the passenger side outer frame rail, about one foot to the rear from the front frame horn.
Frames are made by the 10's of 1000's by an outside supplier (American Frame & Axle is one of the company's Ford used), so just because there's a date code, the frame could have been installed weeks or months later after it was made.
You can pin down the month the truck was assembled by looking for the PRODUCTION DATE that is listed on the white Certification Label.
btw: There are no actual Ford part numbers stamped, cast or by any other method marked on parts after 1956.
The only numbers on parts after 1956 are ID numbers. Most parts are not marked at all.
Did you notice my signature? I didn't start doing this jazz yesterday.
I was a Ford partsman for 35 years, and have been a car/truck collector for over 50 years.
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But there are hints....
Look for the emissions sticker on the valve cover. If it's still got one.
If the year on the sticker matches the year of the truck, then it's good odds that you have the original valve cover at least.

Does not mean that the engine hasn't been rebuilt, or swapped for a short block however. the odds are that it has at least been gone through once for a 30+ year old truck.
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There is only one person on here that knows everything, right dummy number?
In your reply you wrong in so many ways there not even worth countering.
There is a reason they left you behind the counter for thirty-five years, GURU.
Of the 15 Ford vehicles and over 25 engines I have owned, the funny thing is they all still had the factor valve cover and emission sticker on them, great source.
I believe that Ford Australia did it abit different. We have matching vin and engine Numbers when new, Maybe this is a bit off topic but a peice of trivia for all you sepos! (lol)
There is only one person on here that knows everything, right dummy number?
In your reply you wrong in so many ways there not even worth countering.
There is a reason they left you behind the counter for thirty-five years, GURU.
Of the 15 Ford vehicles and over 25 engines I have owned, the funny thing is they all still had the factor valve cover and emission sticker on them, great source.
There are no VIN's or serial numbers on emission stickers.
All the emissions sticker will tell you is the year, but the OP wanted to know if he has the EXACT same original engine that came with the vehicle when it was brand new.
How can anyone tell by the emissions sticker if the engine is the original to the vehicle? They cannot.
There are no VIN's on mechanical parts till the late 1980's.





