I recently bought a 1993 F150 4x2 with a 5.0 V8 engine and automatic transmission. The odometer shows 204k, but the seller claimed that the engine had been replaced at 150k (no receipts or other evidence, however).

It has an oil leak that seems to be getting worse - it looks to me like it could be the front main seal. The truck is otherwise in nice shape, and has a new transmission (I do have receipts for that). My question is, should I do the front seal replacement? How big a job is this? Is it worth doing? Can I do it myself? Can it be done with the engine in the truck, or does the engine have to be pulled?

I'd like to do as much of the work on this truck as I can myself. What manual is the best reference? Haynes, Chilton, Ford Shop Manual, other?

Thanks for your thoughts!

Andy in Carolina

 

Here's what you'll need to do. You'll have to decide whether, or not, you are up to it. These instructions are pretty generic.

There's nothing like having a decent book to walk you through it. Go to your public library, they probably have one you can look at, or check out.

Timing Chain Cover and Seal
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
5.0L and 5.8L Engines

Drain the cooling system and the crankcase.

Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses from the water pump, transmission oil cooler lines from the radiator and remove the radiator.

Disconnect the heater hose from the water pump. Slide the water pump by-pass hose clamp toward the water pump.

Loosen the alternator pivot bolt and the bolt which secures the alternator adjusting arm to the water pump. Position the alternator out of the way.

Remove the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor from their mounting brackets, if so equipped.

Remove the bolts holding the fan shroud to the radiator, if so equipped.

Remove the fan, spacer, pulley and drive belt(s).

Remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft damper. Remove the damper attaching bolt and washer and remove the damper with a puller.

Disconnect the fuel pump outlet line at the fuel pump.

Disconnect the vacuum inlet and outlet lines from the fuel pump.

Remove the fuel pump attaching bolts and lay the pump to one side with the fuel inlet line still attached.

Remove the oil level dipstick and the bolt holding the dipstick tube to the exhaust manifold on the 5.0L.

Remove the oil pan-to-cylinder front cover attaching bolts. Use a sharp, thin cutting blade to cut the oil pan gasket flush with the cylinder block. Remove the front cover and water pump as an assembly.

Discard the front cover gasket, and get a new one.

To install:
Place the front seal removing tool (Ford part no. T70P–6B070–A or equivalent) into the front cover plate and over the front of the seal. Tighten the two through bolts to force the seal puller under the seal flange, then alternately tighten the four puller bolts a half turn at a time to pull the oil seal from the cover.

Coat a new front cover oil seal with Lubriplate® or equivalent and place it onto the front oil seal alignment and installation tool (Ford part no. T70P–6B070–A or equivalent). Place the tool and the seal onto the end of the crankshaft and push it toward the engine until the seal starts into the front cover. Place the installation screw, washer and nut onto the end of the crankshaft, then thread the screw into the crankshaft. Tighten the nut against the washer and tool to force the seal into the front cover plate. Remove the tool.

Apply Lubriplate® or equivalent to the oil seal rubbing surface of the vibration damper inner hub to prevent damage to the seal. Coat the front of the crankshaft with engine oil for damper installation.

To install the damper, line up the damper keyway with the key on the crankshaft, then install the damper onto the crankshaft. Install the cap screw and washer and tighten the screw to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm). Install the crankshaft pulley.

Install the fan, spacer, pulley and drive belt(s).

Install the bolts holding the fan shroud to the radiator, if so equipped.

Install the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor.

Position and tighten the alternator.

Connect the heater hose at the water pump.

Install the radiator.

Connect the upper and lower radiator hoses and transmission oil cooler lines.

Fill the cooling system and the crankcase.

 

The overall job isn't difficult. The worst step will be getting the balancer off. Rent the puller from local part store if you don't have one.

Watch the long water pump/cover bolts as they tend to rust bad inside the block. Once you try cranking on the to get them off, they break. Take it easy.

Few of those steps shown above won't be applicable to you, but not a problem.

Look closely at the balancer after you have it off. Look at the seal area, as it likely will be grooved. This will not seal well even with new seal. A "speedi sleeve" will need to used to make the surface usable. If you can sand it with fine paper and it is smooth, then you're okay. If you can still catch your finger, then get a sleeve. They aren't cheap, and take finesee to install but will make the job much better.

The rest is pull apart, clean and re-assemble.

Before tearing into it, take a good look at the oil pan gasket. They are very noted to get oil soaked and will ooze out. My '95 was leaking bad back by starter, but was able to slip gasket back into place for now. After weather breaks, I'll replace the gasket.

 

Your title reminds me of a joke (video joke) that floats around the internet.

A penguin is having problems with his car so he drops it off at the shop.
The mechanic tells him he'll need an hour or so to do the diagnosis.
So in the mean time the penguin heads over to the ice cream shop. Penguins love ice cream you see.
When he comes back the mechanic says:

"It looks like you blew a seal"

The penguin says:

"Nah, that's just a little ice cream."

 

I can't believe nobody found this joke funny. The video is really funny.