rear brake lines
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Junior User
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rear brake lines
The line that goes to the the rear had a hole in it somewhere so i am going to replace the entire line. what is the best way to do this. I can't run the lines where they come from because the are attached on top of the frame, unless there is a way to get them off. any help you be great. the truck is 1997 F150 4x4 off road short bed regular cab 4.6.
Thanks
JP
Thanks
JP
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From: Ohio
Brake Lines
I think the best method is to remove the entire line from the engine compartment to the junction block just ahead of the rear axle. Then replace it with polymer coated line. You will need to use several sections of line of various lengths in order to bend it to fit over/under and beside the frame. I did it a year ago using polymer coated line and the connectors from NAPA, however I am sure that other parts house have simalar set-ups. Be sure to get a good quality bending unit.
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From: HARPERSFIELD OH
I just changed mine I left the old line behind, there was room on the clips in the frame for another line so I just slid the new line into that spot wasn't too bad soak your fittings in penerating oil for a couple days in advance should come apart. the front line I couldnt get apart so I cut it at a good spot and installed a compression fitting. pretty easy task. soak your bleeders too as you will need to bleed the air when your done. good luck
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From: HARPERSFIELD OH
also my 01 had teflon coated line ran from the master cylinder about half way down the drivers door it was still in good shape so I replaced it from there back, there is a junction there. not sure why they stopped there with the coated line but they did. I went back through and coated all the rusty lines I could find with white lithium grease to try to help future issues too.
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so i got the lines in. Now one major problem. All of the bleeders are rusted in place. I don't want to try too hard to remove them for fear of breaking them off. What is the best way to try to loosen the bleeders. I have tried/am trying PB blaster.
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Freshman User
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From: HARPERSFIELD OH
I soaked mine 2-3 times a day for a few days, I also tapped them lightly with a hammer right on the face the key is lightly. all you want to do is jar them to break the rust up a little and soak them again. if you cant get them that way try tapping your wrench lightly just to jar them loose. this is the part for patients. you may also try a little heat if you have a burnsomatic or torches Ive never been a big fan of heat but some guys swear by it.
Freshman User
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From: HARPERSFIELD OH
make sure you have a good fitting wrench or socket here also they round off pretty easy good luck
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You can also use a special L-shaped bleeder wrench with two sizes of the six point socket on them; I did that this weekend when I changed frt shoes and rotor out. I soaked it in pb blaster, then put the wrench over the fitting, and tapped lightly on the sides of the wrench where it fits over the bleeder, very lightly at four or five different points around it, then a little more solvent, repeated it a couple times and the bleeders broke loose no problem.
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well the fronts broke loose. The backs not so much. they didn't move at all. they did become nice and round and then after round all sorts of chewed up from the vice grips. So i looks like i will be replacing things. Any other suggestions?
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IMO & many others "good luck" & a prayer-nix the "compression fitting"! Did you use a brass "compression fitting"? IMO there is no debate or controversy about this. If there is some reliable source that does recommend them please post details here.
To quote 'Popular Mechanics' & countless other authorities:
"Never use a compression fitting on any brake line. Ever. The pressure in the brake line during a panic stop is about two orders of magnitude too high for the design of a compression fitting."
The correct flare & fittings are the only safe way to repair steel brake lines. I've owned a flaring tool & been making reliable flare connections since the late 60's. Please, NEVER install a "compression fitting" on a brake line "Ever."!
"Never use a compression fitting on any brake line. Ever. The pressure in the brake line during a panic stop is about two orders of magnitude too high for the design of a compression fitting."
The correct flare & fittings are the only safe way to repair steel brake lines. I've owned a flaring tool & been making reliable flare connections since the late 60's. Please, NEVER install a "compression fitting" on a brake line "Ever."!
Last edited by Club Wagon; Mar 25, 2009 at 10:15 PM. Reason: make reply more emphatic
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I don't know if this was confusing or not but i am taking about the bleeders breaking loose. the lines are all in and done. I just need to bleed the system.
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Gnashed up bleeder screws will occasionally come out using extractors like EZ-Outs & many parts stores sell replacements. Since bleeder screws are already drilled out they're a natural for extraction sometimes. Its a gamble, but may be worth a try.
May need to remove the wheel cylinder to do it right, might as well just replace them. Shop around, I've found widely ranging prices.
We presume the penetrating oil was shot right down the hole in the bleeders, not just the outside? You can actually get the lube to the inside of the threads via the 'port' hole.
May need to remove the wheel cylinder to do it right, might as well just replace them. Shop around, I've found widely ranging prices.
We presume the penetrating oil was shot right down the hole in the bleeders, not just the outside? You can actually get the lube to the inside of the threads via the 'port' hole.