NICE..... I have one sitting on the shelf.

 

Hey guys any pics of the resister used? and where to get one? thanx dave

 

First of all Welcome to FTE Dave!

You can pick them up from radio shack for a couple bucks.I think there is 4 or 5 in a pack.

I don't have a pic of one,sorry.

Get to 25 post and then send me a private message and I can mail you my leftover ones I have.

 

Thanx I will go to the shack tomorrow!, when you reassembled exhaust turbo to the block between it and the compressor, did you or can you put a film of permatex ultra copper on the mating surfaces? Also while I have the thing apart I am going to replace the y-pipe donut gaskets,any advice on getting the y-pipes lose from the wye? thanx Dave

 

Dave,I have your e-mail.If you want I can get your address and send you one of the resistors to you.

Yes you can use the ultra copper.Make things easier if you have to pull it back apart some day.

As far as the uppipes.Go with a bellowed set.They eliminate the donut gaskets.Diesel Innovations - Products
Riffraff Diesel: IH Bellowed Up-pipe Kit

If you are taking about the clamp that holds the Y to the turbo.I used a air chisel and gently taped the clamp and it poped loose.

 

Ok, did the EBPV gutting used the resistor in the plug, getting fuel no fire- I had the batteries dis-connected for week while doing this job, engine cranks no start, any ideas?.......Thanx Dave!

 

im going to tackle this tonight, but i dont understand how you closed the two wholes on the waste gate flap...could you explain a lil better..please..thank you.

 

tackled the ebpv and waste gate, it was not that hard although the hardest thing i found to be was getting that dam marmon clamp on the hopup pipes off...but otherwise was not that bad..anyone in the cumming ga area or canton or alpharetta, roswell areas have a tuner to edit the code let me know it would be helpful..thanks

 

subscribing

 

This sleeve I used my wire welder to weld the end to close it off.Then I reinstalled the sleeve.The other sleeve has a closed end.

Glad everything went well.

It will show a code of low voltage to the sensor thats all.

 

yea it worked out great...just one question though, since i deleted the ebpv now, and it has all new o-rings on the petalstool and turbo...what could possibly leak oil from that region of the motor.

 

Is there oil still sitting in the engine valley? I didn't clean mine out and I have a steep driveway and the oil ran out for a wile.Drove me nuts trying to find a leak,just to a quick wash with the pressure washer to fix it.

Check the plugs on the oil rails for the hpop.Also if you have a HPX line it could be leaking.The hpop itself could be leaking also.

Sorry for the slow reply.Been very bizzy.

 

it hasn't leaked since, i notice two little drips but it was from the drain holes on the bell housing which i think just got oil build up from the turbo leaking...i used about a gallon of degresser and the hose and washed out the engine are and scrub the tranny clean on the lift and washed it out..so far nothing at all...thanks for all the help everyone.

 

Brad
CAN THIS BE EXPLAINED IN MORE DETAIL.

I also installed a 1.00 exhaust housing while the turbo was out.

I did not plug in the valve after I put the turbo back in because the valve was gone and I didn't want it to rob the turbo of oil.

I have noticed about a 50* drop on my EGT.And the truck pulls better on hills.

If you guys see anything I have done wrong let me know.

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did not plug in the valve after I put the turbo back in because the valve was gone and I didn't want it to rob the turbo of oil.

PLEASE POINT THIS OUT ON THIS PHOTO, IF THIS IS THE CORRECT VIEW.



Brad
PAA MEMBER #71
2001 f-250 CC 7.3 Auto 4x4 Wanting more mods than I can afford.

1965 F-100 2wd,390,4spd.
I did not plug in the valve after I put the turbo back in because the valve was gone and I didn't want it to rob the turbo of oil.

 

Here you go, he was talking about the EPV plug on the front of the pedestal.