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Nice work. I want to gut mine too, but right now the effort required to R&R the turbo isn't worth it to gut it.
I'm a bit confused about the sleeve you welded up and put back in. Couldn't you just tap there and put in a NPT plug like you did on the other side? Or a freeze plug of some sort?
If you start your truck and let it idle to warm up, it will take a lot longer to feel heat from the heater core but I don't believe it is good to let our trucks idle for extended periods anyway.
The best thing to do is to start and go, just don't push it very hard until the engine comes up to temp.
I thought these trucks needed warm up time before taking off when it is cold outside .
Last edited by BeBo03; Mar 11, 2009 at 08:50 AM.
Reason: Deleted the wrong quote
Guzzle,
My EBPV partially closes while driving. It only does it when the I am not in the throttle or on the brake, basically when the load on the engine is minimal and the throttle position has not changed for a few seconds.
Is this not normal? I have considered gutting this POS because I have had other problems with it but it is nice to get heat a little quicker in the winter.
Bill
If you start your truck and let it idle to warm up, it will take a lot longer to feel heat from the heater core but I don't believe it is good to let our trucks idle for extended periods anyway.
The best thing to do is to start and go, just don't push it very hard until the engine comes up to temp.
I thought these trucks needed warm up time before taking off when it is cold outside .
I idle mine down our driveway, and gently apply throttle, until it sounds "right". At 200k, I havent needed to replace a single injector yet. However the injector harness, and synthetic oil have been a big part of its life. I also, never take mine out of its 80 tow setting.
Originally Posted by billfishnut
Guzzle,
My EBPV partially closes while driving. It only does it when the I am not in the throttle or on the brake, basically when the load on the engine is minimal and the throttle position has not changed for a few seconds.
Is this not normal? I have considered gutting this POS because I have had other problems with it but it is nice to get heat a little quicker in the winter.
Bill
Yes it is normal. However, if you start to apply throttle, and it does not open, it is starting to stick, and will need service. It does close on light thottle, to increase egts, and make the motor work a little harder, while its cold. Mine stuck shut, one too many times, so its been gutted a loooooong time.
Seeing how things seem to run rough when the EBPV tube gets clogged, I don't think I will eliminate my sensor when I gut the pedestal.
Bob,I didn't remove my sensors,just left the one one the pedestal unpluged.I didn't plug it in since I had removed the piston and rod,because I didn't know if it would take to much oil away from the turbo when it open up to work the EBPV.
Originally Posted by spdmpo
Nice work. I want to gut mine too, but right now the effort required to R&R the turbo isn't worth it to gut it.
I'm a bit confused about the sleeve you welded up and put back in. Couldn't you just tap there and put in a NPT plug like you did on the other side? Or a freeze plug of some sort?
Yes,you could use a plug of some sort.It was just to easy to weld it up for me.That steel sleeve is a hard SOB,thats why I didn't tap it for a plug.
awsome, awsome, awsome. Pictures and instructions Brad.
I have a question. What is meant by:
"I did not plug in the valve after I put the turbo back in because the valve was gone and I didn't want it to rob the turbo of oil."
Your talking about the EBPV Solenoid valve? Why would having that plugged in rob turbo oil.
I gutted mine years ago and shortly therafter went to the van pedestal and ATS. At the time I installed a new EBPV housing only. ITP diesel had a cast housing that did not have the holes milled for the valve shaft. Nice piece, don't know if you can find them anymore?
awsome, awsome, awsome. Pictures and instructions Brad.
I have a question. What is meant by:
"I did not plug in the valve after I put the turbo back in because the valve was gone and I didn't want it to rob the turbo of oil."
Your talking about the EBPV Solenoid valve? Why would having that plugged in rob turbo oil.
Dan,Yes I ment the solenoid valve.I was thinking with the piston gone in the valve,that it would send more oil back to the engine when the solenoid opened.Not sending as much as it should to the turbo.
I am still reseraching this.I will post answers when I find them.
Edit: just found out that it will dump the oil with the piston removed and rob the turbo of oil.Thank you Roland!
If you simply plug the hole and leave the sensor plugged in, you may cause yourself the loss of a turbo from lack of oil flow. Let me explain. The same feed port that feeds the turbo bearing is feeding the EBV piston. There is one supply port and one return port in the pedestal. When the EBP sensor sends the signal to the pedestal to shut the valve,which is not there in this case, the oil dumps off to the return port in the pedestal with no resistance. This is the same return port as the one for the turbo. The piston separated the two when it is was properly used from the factory. Basically, while the valve is being actuated or attempted to in your case the turbo gets no oil or very little. The turbo bearing is the highest place in the engine for oil to travel and it will follow the path of least resistance. If you remove this piston in the pedestal, you MUST not allow computer control of the valve any longer. You must disconnect the sensor from the pedestal. Yes, you will get a code (not a light) telling you the valve is non-operational, but it's the only way to do it.
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