I'm starting to work on my 2wd 69 shortbed custom cab again, and this truck has some gremlin's I think. It used to have a 3 on the tree, but I converted to a built C6, was a stock 360, now its a bored/stroked 390 prolly closer to 403 or so CI's. Anyways before I spent a majority of my money on the eng/trans combo but when the money dried up and my truck took a back burner. Well after sitting for 2 1/2 yrs I'm wanting to drive her again, get her to being road worthy again.

There something up with the wiring, if I don't start it everyday and drive it, a cell in the battery will be toast in 2wks to a month. Second the only lights that work are my headlights(high&low) and the marker lights. Brake and signal lights are a no go all have good bulbs. Is there some place out there that makes an aftermarket wiring harness like bumper to bumper factory replacement? I'm not a very good electrician, and chaising sparks isn't my favorite thing in the world to do!! HELP ME!!!

Also my brake pedal always wants to drop too.

But I love to drive/hear my BB V8 FORD!!

 

I don't know why I should even talk to you after you went and took the
manual out and put in a stinkin automatic. :/

But I can't help it, I don't want to see you replace the whole wiring harness
because of a bad ground connection or something. :)

This is cheaper and easier than swapping out parts...
AutoZone.com | Shopping | Accessories | Product Detail - Actron Analog Multimeter
If you want to fix it, get the meter and get back on here and (we'll) get it
going, easy as that.

As long as the electrical stuff is failing it'll be findable and fixable.

Alvin in AZ 360FE T18 (retired RR signal-ape)
ps- At least you've got an FE! :)
pps- brake pedal problem... look closely for leaks...
none = master cylinder
ppps- Do yourself a favor and don't get a "rebuilt", get a new one. ;)

 

I've got a multimeter, its a digital one not a high dollar one though, came from wally world prolly spent 30-40 bucks on it a few years ago.

I know an auto ain't the funnest in the world but oh well... I'm thinking about a 4 speed when I get to putting in a set of 4:10's in the back!!

 

Cool. :)
Did you save the clutch pedal assembly etc? :)

------------------------------

So, get your meter and go read some voltages. :)
When you run across a voltage that doesn't seem right, figure out why.
Think in terms of spending time fiddling around reading voltages as
compared to tearing the truck apart replacing the wiring harness and
the former will seem easy and productive? ;)

Check the charging system while you're at it too. Ever done that?

I've never had any luck shooting trouble using a digital meter. :/
Hope this friggin works. LOL :)

Alvin in AZ

 

I like the electrical tester that has the wire and light bulb in the handle. Connect the ground clip and touch a hot wire and the bulb in the handle lights up. The meter described above is good for other things, but for circuit chasing I like mine better.

1- pull the light switch out to park light and see if any bulbs on the truck are lit. Some folks like to start at the steering column, but I like to start at the rear of the truck. There is a plug in connection near the end of the drivers side chassis rail. Unplug the connection and test the wires coming from the front to see if any light the bulb in your tester.
If yes, you proceed to the tail light bulb area.
If no, you start heading to the front of the truck, checking the wires along the way checking for any places with bad or damaged insulation. Keep going all the way to the light switch itself. Take the dimmer switch off the floor and clean it good on the back side.

2- The battery could be bad or going bad, and a trip to your favorite parts house can test that, or there is a wire with a chaffed section grounding out. Your fancy meter can be used to remove the ground wire from the battery, and with everything off on the truck, place it between the - battery post and the cable to see if there is any current draw. the + cable has to be connected.

Try that and report back.



John

 

Ok, sounds like the battery is just junk, and I'd likely just replace it. How old it is?

If there was a big battery draw while it's sitting, then it would just be dead and usually not just one cell bad.

The reason you don't have tail lights/brake lights is likely the turn signal switch. BOTH items run through this switch, so if it's faulty then neither will likely work. Did you change column? Is the wiring plugged in at the base of column? Big white plastic plug with like 10 wires. Once you get that part sorted out, then you should start to get lights working.

Sounds like your master cylinder is also failing, thus the sinking brake pedal. If it's not the master, then you could have leaking wheel cylinders. Need to check all four wheels for signs of fluid running down the inside of tire. If all dry, and no other noticable leaks anywhere, then replace master cylinder.

Good luck with it.

 

I do a fair amount of wiring at the dealer where I work. I'm the guy who gets all the hacked up ex municipal trucks and other junk the rest of the techs whine about. The guys that whine have $300 Fluke meters. I've been doing fine for years with $20 Sears cheapie. It's not the cost of the meter but knowing how to use it that makes the difference.

 

to you Clay, it aint the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog.


John

 

Thanks for all the replies guys, as soon as it quits raining I'll let ya'll know what I come up with on the lights.

The battery is new, like I said if I do not start and run the truck everyday after about 2wks maybe a month the battery will be dead and have a bad cell. I've replaced the battery 3 or 4 times under warrenty, NAPA really doesn't like to see me coming!!

 

You definitely have a draw on it then. Could be as simple as the regulator on the alt staying on and draining the battery?

Disconnect the postive cable on battery. Get yourself a testlight and hook it between battery and cable. Does it light up with key off? Then you have a draw and need to trace it down. Start pulling fuses and see if that narrows down the circuit. Is there any added wires going to battery? Remove them and see if that helps. Unplug the harness at the voltage regulator and see if that turns light out. Sometimes the old point style regulators get rusty and stick.

There isn't much to the wiring on these trucks, so finding the draw shouldn't be too hard.