I'm going to build my own because I want to use every inch up there. If I can I'd like to go out past the factory track but don't know how I could mount to the roof without drilling holes or welding to the roof. Anyone have any good ideas????

Also what options are there for mounting to the track? I already lost one of the large crossbars when my Kayaks ripped it off going down the road at a mere 45mph. So I'm not to thrilled about the clips Ford used, any better ones out there?

 

I made some spacers out of TREK board that lifted the rack side rails off the roof about an inch. Wish I could claim the idea as mine, but I got it here. Somebody else made spacers out of a rubber mat. I was going to do the same but could not find the material. The TREK board works well so far. Easily machined, impervious to weather, and can be painted and is cheap at Home Depot or Lowes. Anyway, by raising the side rails off of the roof it allowed me to use some clamp on Yakima mini towers and cross bars. It works great. No banging or flexing, and very solid.

 

Do you have any pics with your yakima towers?

I am trying to build a platform on top of the EX that I can stand on and fish from. It would also serve as a spot to strap a Yak to once and awhile.

To get an idea of what I am talking about look at this link and just imagine a platform mounted like the one over this truck bed mounted to the top of an EX, not raised way up rather mounted a few inches above.
SHARK FISHING INFORMATION | TEXAS SHARK FISHING

 

I just posted them in an album. Take a look.

Here is the link:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...hp?albumid=720

 

It will probably be easiest to take the whole exsisting rack off the X and then make to mount to those holes. There are six screws on each side, and they have what is called a rivnut. It is like a rivet with a larger hole in the center used to screw a bolt into and they are pretty sturdy.
Some flat bar with the canopy foam under it, screwed to the roof. Square posts welded near each screw mount for the strength. Taller on the outside and shorter as you go to the center of the X to compensate for the curve of the roof. Then you can extend past however far pending on the strength of your material. Some cross braces and then you can put a grate type on the bottom fully across for more strength. Build up the sides however high you want.
Probably best to go to a machine shop with a quick sketch, and an idea and see if they can come up with the rest with you and the measurements they need. Not a big deal. I have helped my brother build a safari rack for an explorer he used to have. The only difference was we built the flat bar to slide into the excisting track, but I don't think you could do that with the curve on the X. (easy on and easy off)
Sorry for the long post but it is hard to get a picture from your head to written form.

 

I too am gonna build my own roof rack with the basic idea from Safari and Yakima and Thule. The only problem I have come up with is mounting to the stock system. I wouldnt mind removing the stock and making my own as long as it is weather proof and doesnt leak. mMy general idea of size is 82 x 52 x 6 and it would be powder coated and have expanded aluminum for the floor.

So I am open to ideas for mounting, got any ideas? It would also have mounts for antennas and lights.

Ian

 

Driving around during work today, and look what I run across. Exactly the idea that I was talking about. With a little improvising from this you can make a great rack. Run more square corners, have open studs facing up to add what would be a rail when up there, use some thicker walled alum and never worry about it again. Good luck.


Here u can see they caulked onto the roof. If u use the canopy one side sticky mounted onto the rack it will cushion and the bolts into the exsisting holes on the roof would self seal.

 

Man, what great timing ya got! I will work on this as the base idea, sweet!!!

Ian

 

Hey thanks for the pics Wallz. Project started last night. I wish I had a bender because I would like to use round tubing, oh well... mine will be square. I took off the factory track and will use the rivnuts. They look pretty sturdy and all it will tack to maintain a leak proof roof is putting some sealant goop back on the threads of the bolts. Easy sleazy. I will post up some pics when I get it completed. Supposed to rain all week which will slow progress a little but need to get it done pretty quick, have a fishing trip in a couple of weeks.

 

No problemo fellas, it just happened to work out that I saw that rack the next day.
I personally like the square look anyhoo. Should be sturdy enough to run two law chairs up there, (maybe even a small barbecue) nothing like fishing in style.
Reminds me of something I saw years ago while whitetail hunting. Late season, foot and a half or more of snow, fella parked pickup with camper on truck on the side of the road near a deer movement area. He sat on the roof on a lawn chair with a blanket over, with the roof hatch open, heater cranked with some coffee and lunch handy. Smart fella. Warm, fed, and a great view and didn't need to come down till dark, or to go get his deer.
Make sure you also post some pictures of the fish, not only the rack.

 

i am using unistrut... anybody familiar with construction knows what this stuff is...it is the same width as the factory C channal that runs from front to back.. i am mounting the unistrut with 1/4 inch bolts and the modified big 1/4 inch nuts that will fit in the factory C channel...from here i am mounting rollers and brackets for my 12' aluminum boat.... unistrut isnt the prettyest material but i can remove the rack very easily ( 6 bolts) pis to follow
marc

 

I slid 4 u-bolts under the factory crossbars and bolted mine down. I stand on mine all the time although I am only 150# and have never had it come loose. I have had many things up there over the past 4 years is been up there and wouldnt go without one now.

 

ShakinX , how bout some pics up close of your mounting bolts please. The owners manual said those crossmembers are good up to 100 lbs. You have no issues with the weight you have put up there?

Ian

 

+1 to unistrut being ugly! but it is pretty dang strong stuff.

 

I made my own, i used the factory c chanels and extra support at the lift gate hinges, works very good