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i towed it home about 2 weeks ago....we got no valid code off the reader and since have been throwing parts at it daily.... no luck...no start.... no fuel or spark... i put a new coil and plugs with wires in as we realized the coolant was spraying it all down. we fixed that leak too and now the coil recieves power but wont send, so we replaced the crank sensor new and still same story.... i need my baby to run, any help is appreciated! fuses are ok, relays ok... dont know where to look next she's a 96 EFI 4.0 pushrod. battery is ok although i am killing it slowly as i try to get her to start we also replaced the PCM used just for hahas and no go.... what else can i fill you in on? when we got her home off the flatbed, the emmission canister was dangling loose so i also replaced that used with a strap kit that wasnt fully rusted to bits like mine was. no clue, please help before i end up sending her off to the junkyard. when she died....it was with no warning at all, driving along happy and just shut down-no prior issues at all. thanks in advance---jenny
nope, no spark off the new plugs either though---apparently my ride is distibutorless--FI
but there has to be some sort of camshaft control to talk to spark + fuel at the same time...
i am being told that i cant change out the PCM on my own without a computer- well, i already did, any input? still no power going to the fuel pump and still no spark. My synchronizer is supposed to be in the rear of my intake.... i can feel a plug that moves easily but i dont think its the right part. this explorer will run again! just need some direction-- thanks again for all assistance.
If I remember right, the horn, the fuel pump, and the wipers all share the same type of relay. So, if your horn works, swap it with the relay for the fuel pump. If the fuel pump doesn't come on after that, I'd get a test list and make sure you are getting power to the relay/fuse box. If you are not getting power to that, you need to test connections coming out of the PCM. You said you tried a different PCM, I'm assuming it came out of a same model year/engine/working vehicle. If any of those things are different, then the code on the PCM may or may not work with your truck.
k- we swapped relays and still no fuel power, even tested inertia switch....seems there is no power going to the pump. I am just boggled by all of this...she was purrin before she shut down on me. no bogging, no sluggishness, no signs of trouble at all. sooo sad.
we'll check the fuse box - relay power sometime tomorrow in the daytime then. Thank you for your help so far and yes, the PCM shares the identical bar code from same make, model. We might put my original back in tomorrow assuming that it wasn't the problem. I hate being an ameture but I sure am learning lots way quickly...Thank you again for all input- good night Ford Fans!
So you have power upto the inertia switch and out of it? Now that you think of it, a similar problem happened to my truck regarding fuel. It appears the harness shorted out and went open circuit somewhere between the switch and the fuel pump. So I had to splice a wire from the fuel pump relay over to the connector tor the fuel pumps on the drivers side.
the relay does have power in the fuse box and the relay is testing good. the inertia switch however did not show any voltage - we havent reinstalled my original PCM yet though and i want to retest the inertia once we put it back in. I have a feeling it is a short in wiring somewhere to the fuel pump but why then is there no spark at the plugs at the same time? and how do i find the wire needing repair? my hunch is it may be to do with the EVAP connection and triggered the full system shutdown but the wiring there appears to be good so if my hunch is right why wont it start?
Try fuse #19 in the interior fuse panel ,this is the ignition coil fuse. next try #12 fuse in the power dist. panel under the hood this is the fuel pump relay fuse.In the power dist. panel there are 3 large relays,just below the fuses the upper left relay is the fuel pump relay ,the relay below it is the PCM relay.DO NOT swap these two with each other.The relay next to the PCM relay is the wot a/c relay ,swap this with the fuel pump relay.When you remove power to the PCM it you must drive about 100 miles to reset it . The cam shaft syncronizer only sets the fuel injectors .good luck
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