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Hey guys,
I know I've seen this thread b4, but the search function isn't helping and the links in the Super Duty tech folder aren't working.
So can anybody give me a quick rundown to keep the fogs on with the high beams? I know you ground one of the wires under the dash by the fuse panel, but I don't wanna cut the wrong one.
Thanks
Those connectors are crap. I seriously doubt he will have a fire (I was exaggerating) but he WILL have electrical problems down the road. Those T-taps end up cutting through the wire after time.
You solder barrel connectors on?? WTF, Why would you do that. Barrels are better than T-taps, but arent meant to be soldered and can come apart fairly easy. The ONLY right way to do it in my professional opinion is to twist the wires together (there are several types of twists) and solder them. When you do a twist the RIGHT way and solder it, it is about twice as strong as the wire it's self. This is due to the thatched effect the joint has.
You solder barrel connectors on?? WTF, Why would you do that. Barrels are better than T-taps, but arent meant to be soldered and can come apart fairly easy. The ONLY right way to do it in my professional opinion is to twist the wires together (there are several types of twists) and solder them. When you do a twist the RIGHT way and solder it, it is about twice as strong as the wire it's self. This is due to the thatched effect the joint has.
I have a hot/cold method that has worked for decades, never had a pull out. It has a far smaller size impact that weaving (excellent method when you have room though). I do a lot of straight-run soldering where there isn't room for a bend in the wire. Plus I can make it watertight.
I have a hot/cold method that has worked for decades, never had a pull out. It has a far smaller size impact that weaving (excellent method when you have room though). I do a lot of straight-run soldering where there isn't room for a bend in the wire. Plus I can make it watertight.
I professionally installed for 2.5 years and have been doing it on my own for over 2 years. I have NEVER had to little room to be able to a weave. Depending on the type of twist you use you dont have to have a bend in the wire. Electrical tape, when used correct (I must emphasise the when used correct part) is a far more watertight connection that heat shrink. Everyone has their methods, so if it works for you then stay with it. Im not telling you its wrong, just pointing out why its not the best method.
You solder barrel connectors on?? WTF, Why would you do that. Barrels are better than T-taps, but arent meant to be soldered and can come apart fairly easy. The ONLY right way to do it in my professional opinion is to twist the wires together (there are several types of twists) and solder them. When you do a twist the RIGHT way and solder it, it is about twice as strong as the wire it's self. This is due to the thatched effect the joint has.
I solder barrel conn. myself and heat shrink then skotch kote. I want a clean in line looking connection and totally waterproof otherwise corrosion sets in below the soldered joint.Besides looking for good continuity not pulling ability. My work lasts for the life of the vehicle some of it 20 yrs. plus so it can't be that bad. besides i guess i was never taught the twist method your talking about. Soldering is the best no matter what to keep resistance down. just my H.O. and anouther solution to the problem
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