Hi, all. I was referred by someone in the van forum for a better chance of getting help. I have a 2003 E-150 with the 4.2L. The check engine light came on with bad hesitation on acceleration. I took the van to Autozone and they pulled a code of po340. After doing a little research I decided not to attempt to do it myself because I don't have a garage. I took the van to the local Ford dealer and was told $650 if all goes well. That's $95 for sensor and $135 for the cam synchro with the rest as labor. He said 2-3 hours labor at $95 per hour. My calculator says $430-$515(I guess the other $135+ is for the priveledge of having them work on my van). He then said there is a tube from water pump that has to be removed to get at the cam sensor/synchro assembly, but the tech couldn't say whether this tube would come off in one piece or break off. If it breaks I would have to get a new water pump, driving the total cost to almost $1300. Has anyone ever done this or had it done? It just all seems a little much to replace a sensor. Thanks in advance. Rob

 

I have never done one on a van but have on a PU and I don't believe it would be much different. The pipe he is refering to is held in by one bolt and has an o-ring on it for a seal. Being its a 2003 I would'nt think it would break. I have never had one break myself. What is bad the sensor or the synchro or both and are you sure this is the problem?

 

TK
Thanks for the input. As for your question, it's a tough answer. The tech wanted to replace both the sensor and the syncro "just in case". But when I google the code it says cam position sensor circuit. It goes on to say it could be the sensor or wiring or connectors even the whole powertrain control module. But it never mentions the syncro.
Rob

 

Bought the cam position sensor and installed it in my driveway. Total cost $56.00.

 

I had horrable noise in front of engine that sounded like a belt or pulley. Checked idler pulleys, tensioner, fan clutch, belt all ok or brought up to spec's. It still squeeled after start up, at times, but went away. It progressed to include a shutter that shut the engine down at times. Out of town in a high traffic metro area, condition getting worse. Barrowed a scanner (Autozone)and got a bad cam sensor code, checked what I could in a hotel parking lot. Like I said out of town (no tools-garage-etc..) so I had to send to Ford! SNAP! It finally got so bad I had it towed rather then drive it.
Had truck dropped off at 6PM they called at 8:30 AM next day. Said synchronizer was locking up and causing the engine shut down and a bad sensor the rough running and check engine light on. $800-850 parts and labor, all sounded reasonable compared to amount of work. Called at 2PM to say it was ready. I will pick it up tonight and see.

 

Exact same situation as you. (2000 F150 4.2) It squealed for like a month I thought it was the A/C compressor goin out. Then I got a check engine light and code said it was the sensor. So I went and bought the part for $30 bucks and spent last saturday pulling off half of my front end to get to it.

Well, when I did, the sensor was blown to hell (half of it had disappeared and is probably laying on a street somewhere) and the syncro housing was also broken off at the top. Lucky me. I looked it up in the Haynes manual and it said to align the #1 cylinder to TDC and all that and it was way beyond my expertise so I had it towed to Ford over the weekend. Thanks AAA!

Ford just called me and it was $575 parts and labor. He said I got a break b/c I had torn off most of the accessories and hoses already and saved him some time. (I just threw all the parts in a box on the front seat). Hopefully it runs like a charm now because it was misfiring like a ***** and I was getting about 10 mpg for a week or so, down from my usual 16.

In all my years working with cars I have never heard of anything so ridiculous going out. Maybe it's a Ford thing because the service rep didn't seem too surprised when I brought it in.

 

It is a 2 piece deal, the sensor and the pick up that goes into the engine (as I understand it). The Dealer suspected the internal piece was FUBAR when I set up the appointment before they saw the truck! Said it was pretty common problem when a squeel was reported at the front around the water pump. Of course i had eliminated the pulleys, belt, fan clutch, etc... for them.
When mine went out it caused the engine to shutter like it was locking up. I was beginning to fear the worst! Cam or crankshaft bearing so I was pleased it was a quick fix!

 

Can some one tell me the location of a camshaft sensor? my car its a e150 4,2 v6. Thanks

 

It is behind the tube coming off the water pump. It is kind of hard to see.

 

Does anyone now the exact or approximate position of the rotor under the camshaft sensor ?

 

Supposedly 54 degrees from the centerline of the engine, Haynes manual has a diagram. There is a tool to align it, but short of calling the dealer, I can't find one anywhere...

 

Listen up guys,

You hear a squealing under the hood of your F-150 andright away you think its a bad or worn serpentine belt. I'm hear to warn you, it might not be. Heard this noise that i could not find when i started it up. A real squealing like and though it went away after a little bit, it wold come back. Had it checked at walder Ford in Clearwater FL and 50 bucks and 3 hrs. later they said they couldn't find anything and put some belt squeak on it. Big mistake! Two weeks of squealing later the damn thing bucked like a two dollar ***** on the way to work at 5 am. Made it to work which luckily was only 3 miles away. Got out at 3 pm and was on my way home when it did it again, this time stalling at a red light with the "check engine" light on! You SOB"s. Is that what it takes to do it right this time!? I crawled into Walker Ford and as red as a beat told them the story about my bringing it there two weeks earlier and they found nothing and now with the "check engine" light on you MIGHT just be able to figure it out this time!!!! Long story short it was the CAMSHAFT SYNCHRONIZER that needed to be replaced. Was called a few hours later the next day before noon and it was repaired to the tune of $ 723.00 ! This might not be a job for the "shade treee mechanic" such as myself and I"m gonna tell you not to try it. Ya, it hurt like hell dishing out this kind of cash. Having only 49k on my truck didn't make it feel any better. Never heard of such nonsense! How does this thing wear out to the extent os a $700 repair???
Ford....."YOU GOT SOME SPLAININ TO DO"....
When this truck gets too much to fix....maybe I'll look at another manufacturer....We"ll see.... Certainly don't make like they used to... Thats all I'm saying....

 

TRUST ME, ITS NOT YOUR SERPENTINE BELT!
HAVE THEM LOOK AT THE CAMSHAFT SYNCHRONIZER! $ 730 DOLLARS LATER THATS WHAT IT TURNED OUT TO BE! SEEMS TO BE A RASH OF THIS PROBLEM WITH FORD. MY F-150 IS A 2003 WITH ONLY 49K ON IT AND THIS HAPPENED TO ME. SOONER OR LATER YOUR GONNA BE TIRED OF THE SQUEALING AND TAKE IT IN AND THEY WILL TELL YOU THEY DON'T SEE ANYTHING AND NEXT THING YOU KNOW ITS BUCKING LIKE A GREEN HORSE TRYING TO THROW IT'S RIDER AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL COME ON AND SUDDENLY THEY WILL BE ABLE TO FIGURE IT OUT TO THE TUNE OF $700+ LIKE IT DID TO ME AT WALKER FORD IN CLEARWATER FLORIDA! LUCKY FOR ME I LIVE ACROSS THE STREET FROM THEM. BAD FOR THEM IS THAT I MAY HAVE TO LOOK AT ANOTHER MANUFACTURER WHEN ENOUGH IS ENOUGH AND I NEED TO RID THE RIDE FOR SOMETHING ELSE. FUNNY HOW SOME TRUCKS WILL GO 250K AND NEVER HAVE THIS PROBLEM...OH YA....IT WASN'T A FORD..MY MISTAKE.....

 

I have a PU F150 xl 99' 4.2. It starts to hesitate when I step on the accelerator about 50 - 60 mph. Also it stalls out when I put in reverse sometimes and when I start to acceleration from a stop. I does not stall out while idling. Is this related to the cam position sensor? I also recently replaced the Mas air sensor. I hope someone can help me alleviate this problem. Truck has a lot of miles and this is the only problem.

 

Just pulling the connector to clean it and the terminals on my '98 4.2 was a bad time but for the money the stealership needs to do this work... I'd hook every driver attachment I have to every nut, bolt, screwdriver I have and get that thing swapped out with a new one. It will not be a good time but I think it is doable. If you do it right (not my short cut BS way) and remove what ever is in the way you might not have an ulcer when you are done.

Check the motocraft link for access to a quality shop manual. 3 day, one month, and one year subscriptions are offered. I've seen what look like diagrams from this source and they look top notch.

http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...p?menuIndex1=2