rear fender replacment
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2001
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rear fender replacment
Im going to be replacing the rear fenders on my 90 bronco
there just starting to rot through anyways I have to practice
mig welding before I attempt this project i've only done it a
couple of times anyways again when welding the new piece in
do you over lap the metal or do you butt it up to the piece being
welded to??? I believe that you would butt it up (HELP)
JC.
there just starting to rot through anyways I have to practice
mig welding before I attempt this project i've only done it a
couple of times anyways again when welding the new piece in
do you over lap the metal or do you butt it up to the piece being
welded to??? I believe that you would butt it up (HELP)
JC.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,281
Likes: 18
From: Northern California
rear fender replacment
Always use a but weld, the overlap type will rust.
Some pointers, use the lowest setting you can get away with and tack a 1/4" spot every two inches then go back and fill the rest. Allow time for the metal to cool a bit and you'll get less warping.
Eastwood (www.eastwoodco.com) makes a putty that you put on the metal to help keep the heat from spreading, you can probably find this at some local welding shops too.
Try to find the best setting that allows you to move fast enough to not overheat the area, but not so high that you cause excess heat.
Expect to grind down and fill afterwards and don't let bare metal sit exposed for too long. Look into some metal etch or rust converting acid at the pro body shops for after your done grinding down the weld.
If you get 'oil canning' (an area the easily pops in and out with light hand pressure) try heating and shrinking the area, otherwise the filler might pop out.
Some pointers, use the lowest setting you can get away with and tack a 1/4" spot every two inches then go back and fill the rest. Allow time for the metal to cool a bit and you'll get less warping.
Eastwood (www.eastwoodco.com) makes a putty that you put on the metal to help keep the heat from spreading, you can probably find this at some local welding shops too.
Try to find the best setting that allows you to move fast enough to not overheat the area, but not so high that you cause excess heat.
Expect to grind down and fill afterwards and don't let bare metal sit exposed for too long. Look into some metal etch or rust converting acid at the pro body shops for after your done grinding down the weld.
If you get 'oil canning' (an area the easily pops in and out with light hand pressure) try heating and shrinking the area, otherwise the filler might pop out.
Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,414
Likes: 201
From: Silver Springs
rear fender replacment
>If you get 'oil canning' (an area the easily pops in and out with light hand pressure) try heating and shrinking the area, otherwise the filler might pop out.<
As always - I've learned something new today.
Thanks
As always - I've learned something new today.
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 437
Likes: 1
From: United States
rear fender replacment
>>If you get 'oil canning' (an area the easily pops in and out with light hand pressure) try heating and shrinking the area, otherwise the filler might pop out.<
>
>As always - I've learned something new today.
>
>Thanks
No kidding! This place is amazing!
>
>As always - I've learned something new today.
>
>Thanks
No kidding! This place is amazing!
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
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From: Texas
rear fender replacment
So what do you do to treat the backside of the panel once its welded and access is limited?
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Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,414
Likes: 201
From: Silver Springs
rear fender replacment
We've gone heavy on the OSFO in all the places Steve welded on our cab floor. With it being like water, it will seep into places the POR-15 may not. We use POR's Metal Ready product on most of the surfaces since you can paint after 20 min's, but its supposed to be rinsed off. The OSFO is supposed to sit for 24 hrs before painting and doesn't need rinsing. Don't want to take a chance that the water gets in and sits & feeds.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,281
Likes: 18
From: Northern California
rear fender replacment
Some ideas about rust.
I sandblasted every part of my truck, including down the bed support rails that go from side to side. I cut them open in the middle about 8~10" and bent the metal back, then blasted away.
After everything was blasted, I wrapped a thick paper towel on the bent end of a thick 3' welding rod and began cleaning with acetone.
I bought a soft spongs and cut a piece and attached it to the 3' welding rod, dipped it into the Por15 and began painting the inside of the supports.
I used the same thing for the cab supports and some tight frame spots, you'd be amazed the places you can reach with something like this. The thick welding rods allows you to bend to shape, but has enough strength to apply some pressure and that causes the Por15 to bleed from the sponge.
you can also cut the sponge so that it has a knife type edge and this allows you to get into the smallest of cracks.
I sandblasted every part of my truck, including down the bed support rails that go from side to side. I cut them open in the middle about 8~10" and bent the metal back, then blasted away.
After everything was blasted, I wrapped a thick paper towel on the bent end of a thick 3' welding rod and began cleaning with acetone.
I bought a soft spongs and cut a piece and attached it to the 3' welding rod, dipped it into the Por15 and began painting the inside of the supports.
I used the same thing for the cab supports and some tight frame spots, you'd be amazed the places you can reach with something like this. The thick welding rods allows you to bend to shape, but has enough strength to apply some pressure and that causes the Por15 to bleed from the sponge.
you can also cut the sponge so that it has a knife type edge and this allows you to get into the smallest of cracks.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2001
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rear fender replacment
These are some sweet ideas I've learned quite a bit about the whole
fender/quater panel thing. So... if you have any other ideas keep them going! The more ideas the better.
Thanx. JC
fender/quater panel thing. So... if you have any other ideas keep them going! The more ideas the better.
Thanx. JC
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,859
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From: USA
rear fender replacment
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 26-Feb-02 AT 07:13 PM (EST)]Something else to remember don't overgrind your welds,they become weaker
also don't overheat the welded area with the grinder it will warp the panel and cause oil canning.
I use a inner panel rustproofing for the back of the welded area.
Most bodyshop supply stores have it
Rich
Ford Trucks Built Tough!
not with rocks
Watch out "X" Mayor of Truckville
also don't overheat the welded area with the grinder it will warp the panel and cause oil canning.
I use a inner panel rustproofing for the back of the welded area.
Most bodyshop supply stores have it
Rich
Ford Trucks Built Tough!
not with rocks
Watch out "X" Mayor of Truckville
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
rear fender replacment
I know just about nothing about body work but i have talked to alot of guys that do and i guess there is a mew 3m product out that you put in a caulk gun and you (glue) body panels in. I am going to jump into a body repair project of my own and i am just exploring some possibilities to make this job easy.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 969
Likes: 358
From: Newton Illinois
rear fender replacment
>Im going to be replacing the rear fenders on my 90 bronco
>there just starting to rot through anyways I have to
>practice
>mig welding before I attempt this project i've only done it
>a
>couple of times anyways again when welding the new
>piece in
>do you over lap the metal or do you butt it up to the piece
>being
>welded to??? I believe that you would butt it up (HELP)
> JC.
A butt weld probably is the best and also the hardest to do.
It is easy to burn through on a butt weld joint.The way that works best for me to weld thin metal is to set the heat fairly high
and only weld about 1/8" at a time (just a 1 second zap) and move around a lot then take a break or go to another panel when the metal starts to heat up.
Larry
>there just starting to rot through anyways I have to
>practice
>mig welding before I attempt this project i've only done it
>a
>couple of times anyways again when welding the new
>piece in
>do you over lap the metal or do you butt it up to the piece
>being
>welded to??? I believe that you would butt it up (HELP)
> JC.
A butt weld probably is the best and also the hardest to do.
It is easy to burn through on a butt weld joint.The way that works best for me to weld thin metal is to set the heat fairly high
and only weld about 1/8" at a time (just a 1 second zap) and move around a lot then take a break or go to another panel when the metal starts to heat up.
Larry
Junior User
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
rear fender replacment
I remember replacing a rear quarter on a Tempest when I was in high school a few years ago. The top edge on the new panel had a bent in lip (don't really know what to call it) that slipped right behind the good metal on the body. Now I'm looking to order a replacement panel to replace the eyebrow rust over the rear wheel on my 79 Bronco; do the panels today still have that lip on them. I've been reading about the body panel adhesives, and I thought that lip might be useful. But now I see people asking about butt welds, and this makes me think the panels don't come with that lip thing anymore. If they don't, and I still want to use the adhesive, do I just overlap a little? If so, how much do I overlap, do I put it behind or in front of the good metal, and do I just blend the panels together with Bondo?
Thanks for any help (my truck needs it). --sean
Thanks for any help (my truck needs it). --sean
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,438
Likes: 11
From: IN FRONT OF YOU
rear fender replacment
>
The panel was "stepped", most today aren't
You can by a air stepper that looks kind of like a air ratchet only with a head that allows you to slip it along the edge, hit the trigger and it puts the step along the lip. Gives you a nice butted seam.
The panel was "stepped", most today aren't
You can by a air stepper that looks kind of like a air ratchet only with a head that allows you to slip it along the edge, hit the trigger and it puts the step along the lip. Gives you a nice butted seam.
New User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: St.Louis
rear fender replacment
i have a 90 f-250 and my rear fender is in bad shape along with the tail gate. i was wondering what is cheaper and easier? replacing the whole bed or finding a new fender and tailgate.