Ok all, I'm trying to unhook some of the stuff left in the engine bay of my old 56 pickup. I'm getting ready to pull it out, then take the block in to have it cleaned and assessed to see if the can repair the crack...and so on. I have a question though there is a little box one the drivers side inner-fender that my dad said he traded with one from our other 56 because he said it stopped working, so that means the one in the truck doesn't work, but I'm not sure if they still make them or where to get them, does anybody know anything about them(the thing in the first pick)?

I'm sorry for the poor quality, all the pics were taken with a camera-phone...



Here guys, you want pics of the truck? Heres just a few of the engine. The engine has sat like this since 1990.

 

Voltage regulator.

 

all right!!!! Thanks a whole bunch. Oh right, are they still readily available? Where could I get one? Thanks so much for the fast reply!

 

He's right!

 

Ok I'm just being a smart A. The top picture is a voltage regulator for a 12 volt generator. They are still plentifully available just about anywhere - like NAPA.

But you are going to throw it away because I KNOW you are going to put a one wire alternator instead of a generator on you new engine that doesn't require an external regulator!

 

hUHHHH!? How did you know?!? You reminded my of a couple things that I really needed to ask you all!

First of all, my dad says that this truck and our panel were converted over to 12V. I asked him one day how he knows and he didn't really give me a strait forward answer. He said you can't run a 12V system off of a 6V battery and the batts are 12v, thus the system is 12v(I guess he didn't do it himself). Is that true? How can I prove it? Is that little box the thing that determines the difference between 6 and 12v?

What is this "12v generator"? Is that what it takes to change from 6 to 12, or is there more? I guess I'll need to get a 12v version, right?

And finally(whew) YES YES YES! I do want to switch from the generator to an alternator...How do I do it and what things do I need to take out/put in???

Oh man, I'm so fired up with questions right now my fingers can't keep up!

Thank you all so much!!!

 

Ford began running 12v systems in these trucks in 56 so it originally was 12v. The one-wire setup is easy there is a tech article up above that details the install, parts, and wiring. The hardest part will finding a alternator core. I do have a question is the motor locked up by any chance? I have never had much luck with a block setting around for 20 years with the head off of it.

 

Yes, I'd suggest pulling out that boat anchor and replacing it with an engine that is complete and runs, it's not worth the expense, especially if you already know it's cracked, since you'll need to replace every part in it. Kinda like jacking up the thermostat and putting a new engine under it. I'd check with the national engine rebuilders, like Jasper, one may still have a freshened long block sitting in a back corner.

 

Well, thats what I was going to do for months, but then somebody asked why I can't just at least find out if it's fixable or something, and I go a few quotes on how much it'd cost to clean it and asses the crack(fixable or not-fixable), and so I said, "OK".

I have been jumping around the last year on whether to get a new engine or not, and I've drug myself through all kinds of hell tracking them down, and then the issue of another engine being "gauranteed" came up, and that was where I stopped. ...Simply put, I'm gonna asses the block I have, and then I'll see about a new engine.

I have been on this site a while, I don't wanna put you guys down for not listening(about getting a new engine). But at first, I was told I should easily be able to find a core/engine.....It wasn't.

Then I was told they should be $100-300...they weren't.(600-1000)

Then I was told they would/need to gaurantee it(ran or was rebuildable)....they wouldn't.

I think I'll do what I was told to do first...asses the engine I have now, and the get a new one later if I need to.

Thanks all. I can't believe the 56's came original with 12v systems. I'll have to search for that guide about the "one wire"...


P.S. Do any of you have any suggestions for unlocking the engine manually(the starter probably still works but I don't want to ruin it). I was told these engine turn a certain direction..which? It should cost less if we can get it turning.

 

I'd let the motor shop free it, you could hurt it even more trying to turn it over. The one wire alternator is somewhat a misnomer, it's just that GM (AC Delco) alternators have the regulator built into the case so you don't need to run seperate wires to an external regulator, just an output wire to the battery.
Used or rebuilt engine availability/cost is somewhat a function of where you live. In the sunny south, bodies last a long time so engines tend to get used up/replaced more, boosting the prices. In the salt saturated north, the bodies rust out long before the engines get much past a good break in mileage and/or get totalled in icy road accidents, so a good body brings a premium and engines go for a dime a dozen. The government thanks to the tree huggers has clamped down on automotive salvage yards so they can't just line up the older stuff in the back of the yard until there isn't anything left like they used to.Does it matter if the engine is the same as it originally had? It would likely be easier to find a good late model engine/tranny to use, and our truck engine bays will swallow even the biggest modern engine.
When looking for a replacement motor, be creative. first decide what kind of motor you want: make, size, year(s), with or without tranny, standard, automatic, carbed, EFI, etc. be as open to as wide a range of possibilities as you can, it will make it easier to find one. Next look at ebay, Craigs list, your local free shopping news etc, not just for engines, but also look at finding a complete donor car, sometimes you can find the whole car, strip off the parts you want and sell the rest. I know people who have even turned a profit. A complete car means that you may be able to see/hear it run, even possibly take it for a test ride. Another place to look is your state or local aw enforcement sales/auctions of confiscated cars from drug dealer's. They have a silent auction for these cars and trucks weekly here and they usually go cheap.
Just as an example of what you might find. I did a search on "Ford" in the automotive parts section of our local Craiglist, and this ad was on the first page:I have several 60's and early 70's Ford V8 + 6 cid engines. Here is a list of what I have for sale. 65-69 200 cid = $ 100.00 68 289 2V $ 250.00 68 -70 302 ( high compression) $ 200.00 71-79 302 = $ 150.00 69-70 351W 2V ( high compression) $ 500.00 71-74 351 W 2V = $ 350.00 71 -73 351 C 2V = $ 350.00 78 351 M 2V with C6 out of a ford truck = $ 250.00 68-69 390 2V = $ 400.00 ( not a GT head ) 1973 460 with C6 =$ 500.00.I also have allot of extra blocks heads and other engine parts separate if you need anything like that. Transmissions = C6 transmissions for 429-460 of 390 FE series $ 150.00 , C4 's $ 125.00 and FMX 's $ 75.00 , 3 speed manual transmissions = $ 100.00.Manual bellhousings $ 75.00. Most of these engines ( except the big blocks) and transmissions came out of 65-73 Mustangs, Torinos and Fairlanes.

 

Hey all, I'm sorry for even more questions, but I'll be hopefully getting the engine out in the next week or two with a friend. As of now we have no experience taking out an I-6 from a ford truck.

My question is , are there any wierd special things we should watch out for? I assume we should be able to attatch it to the hoist, then unbolt it from the trans, and then the front engine mounts, correct? Is it tough to "unhook" it from the trans? What about the engine mount? I'm open for any advice.

Thank you all very much, again.

 

the input shaft of the transmission has to clear the clutch and throwout bearing when removing the engine...that means the engine has to have room to slide forward to clear....or as I have always done it: remove the tranny to the rear. Trans weighs less and is a little more easier to maneuver. But in a nutshell, what you have said is about right.....watch for wires and such.

As for 223 6's, there's a free one still running in MA., and there's a $150 one in TX...both on the HAMB. They're out there, just have to find'em. Did you put an ad in the wanteds ? and a nice one from Sacramento for $300 (dated from last Nov.) Good luck!

 

BTW I was only trying to encourage ya to not give up searching for another 223 engine in my previous post.

 

Once you get your engine situation fixed, and back in, start another thread about putting things back together. Remind me about your electrical installations. For now, here is the link ot the tech artical on installing the GM "one wire" alternator on your truck. On mine I had one made by Tough Stuff specifically for my needs (I was space limited). You should be ok space wise with a smaller engine and a bigger engine compartment.

Also remember that one of the unfortunate consequences of the internet is that unless you pay particular attention to it, there is a geographical element that can bite you. Maybe the guys that said the 223s should be $xxx said so because where they live, they are plentiful and cheap. If you live in California - other than the Central Valley, everything is in short supply and expensive. So, take the advice with the good intentions it was offered, but as an indicator - not rule of law. Good solid planning and research on your own, coupled with experience and advice here will save you many MANY bad words later.

Here are those links (the last two are alternator stores):

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ord_Truck.html

Products :: Tuff Stuff Performance

Powermaster PowerGEN Alternator - Ford Flathead 1939-48 - 75 Amp - Black Finish 82011 - Powermaster PowerGEN Alternators - Alternators - Alternators, Batteries and Switches - Ignition and Electrical - Vic Hubbard Speed & Marine

 

#1 step! Soak every bolt and nut you can find with a GOOD penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster (NOT WD-40!) every day for at least a week before starting! When disconnecting the engine, don't forget the electrical hookups (look for "hidden" connections like ground wires/straps between the engine and chassis) the clutch linkage, exhaust connection, and the water connections. I would suggest pulling the engine and tranny as a unit and separating after removal, it's easier and you're likely to want the tranny out later anyhow. If you haven't done so already, remove the radiator and put it in a safe place before starting engine removal. It's also a lot easier if you take off the front clip (hood, fenders, inner fenders, grill, radiator mount etc as a unit. If the engine resists when you start lifting, look carefully for something you missed disconnecting, it doesn't take major brute force to get it out.
Another suggestion I would make is to go to the library or major book store and look for 1 or more good books that cover engine removal in detail, especially ones specific to you engine and/or truck. Repair manuals covering your year published by Motor or Chilton at least. Read them carefully and keep at hand while working. Wear snug fitting leather or padded work gloves like the Mechanix brand while working, they are a bit expensive, but a whole lot cheaper than a trip to the emergency room when you slip or a bolt breaks.