I just went out and got my craftsman multi-meter out and my leads read between 0.1 and 0.4 ohms. I think that that is normal.

 

I have a Micronolta from Radio Shack and a Fluke, both were over 100 dollars and both of them show 0 ohm's when the leads are touched together.

Here is a picture of the glow plug relay behind the passenger side battery.



The purple wire is from the glow plug controller.
I have seen people wire a switch in the circuit that manually disables the stock controller by breaking the connection there.

What I did was find a fuse that was only hot when the key was on.
Attach a wire to it and run it to a momentary switch mounted in the dash.
Attach a wire to the other terminal of the momentary switch and run it to the glow plug relay and attach it to the terminal the purple wire is on.
Manual conversion done.

Operation,
Turn the key to on.
Push the momentary switch for 10 seconds.
Start the engine.

Momentary switch, spring loaded to return to the off position is required so the switch can not be bumped or left on by accident.
Glow times can be varied as you get a feel for what the engine needs to start.

Summer, 5 seconds for the first start of the day or if the truck has been sitting all day without running.
Winter, 10 seconds get me running down to 0.
Sub zero, 12 seconds and be ready to hit the switch after the engine starts if it starts running very rough.

That last part was not such an issue till I dropped the compression ratio, but is now.
Cold air intake also made it worse, for some reason 10 below air when compressed does not have enough heat to auto ignite the fuel.

 

Dave. Would you recommend this new relay and manual push button kit that this guy apparently sells on EBAY?

eBay Motors: Ford diesel glow plug relay Manual controller-solenoid (item 270351453062 end time Mar-10-09 12:25:16 PDT)

 

Well short answer, No.

Advance Auto has the relay fo 16.29.

Glow Plug Relay - Advance Auto Parts

Add a 6 dollar switch and 2 dollars worth of wire plus a couple crimp on wire connectors.
That should have you going for under 30 dollars.

My guess is there is nothing wrong with the original relay, I just replaced mine this winter with 430,000 miles on my truck.

The glow plug controller, that died years ago.

I have a 7.3 style controller, 7.3 engine harness and 7.3 style glow plugs in my engine.
The brand new 150 dollar Ford controller is still in the box in my garage where it has been for 5 years now.

I like manual glow plugs and I let very few people drive my truck.
The glow plugs in the engine now were installed when I built the engine in July of 06.

 

I'm not sure what is special about the relay he is selling with the kit, but I think you could do it for 1/2 of what the kit is selling for. The wiring and momentary switch is no big deal. And the last time I checked a Cont Duty relay was under $20 (a Ford starter solenoid would work since you are only using it 10-15 seconds at a time). That's if you don't want to use the relay on the controller you have.

Jason

 

1985 relay inner fender mounted, controller was in the drivers side head almost against the firewall.

The dying controller turning the glow plugs on while driving is the problem, the relay is still working and carrying current or the glow plugs would not have burnt up.

1986 and older glow plug controller.


1987 and newer controller.

 

Thanks for the help Dave as usual.

Well I think I will just remove the controller and put a pipe plug in its place. What is the correct thread size, pitch, etc of the pipe plug I need to get to plug that hole? I guess I will go ahead and order new GP's, a new relay just for good measure, and wire up the manual push button set up.

 

Use the existing relay with/ for the controller setup you have, then

I figured since you already posted a picture and a location of the relay, that was already known. As well as what controller he has.

Jason

 

Sorry, so used to people getting the system confused it is an almost automatic response from me.

 

Eventhough I completely understand the Glow Plug System now, I am always confused about just about everything.

 

That's OK, Dave. I was just ribbing you a little.

Jason

 

Back to your ohm readings. Don't get hung up on .1, .3, .5 ohms or whatever. If a good glow plug is supposed to have .5 ohms, and you are getting 1 ohm or something like that, then we have something to debate. You are getting nothing. That is so far away from these low ohm readings, you definitely have bad glowplugs.

I hope this thread has not confused other people testing their glowplugs. If you check your glowplugs with a ohmmeter, and get nothing or infinity as a reading, then the glowplug is definitely bad.

 

Could anyone post pictures of how to wire up a manual gp switch on the newer style controler? I have a 93 non-turbo. I have all the gps testing good now but I would like to have manual control. Does the newer style controler still use the relay on the passeger side behind the battery or is it part of the controler?

 

Yea Dave F. I agree in regard to the Ohm's reading. I measured all of them this morning, and none of them have any readings at all. I knew this was going to be the case, so I already ordered a new set of GP's last night. I think my stock relay is ok considering I am getting 12 volts on the engine side of the relay, and I think Dave is right that the controller is junk and that is why my glow plugs burnt out so fast. Its time to install the manual push button set up, no question.

 

Or a solid state conversion?

Oilburners.net

http://www.oilburners.net/brian/idi/...retrocombo.htm