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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 12:20 PM
  #1  
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Rear end problems

Back around Thanksgiving I was driving down the freeway in my 82 Bronco pulling a trailer when the passenger side axle broke at the wheel bearing. Of course the wheel came off and crunched the rear quarter panel, bounced off the trailer fender destroying it, and finally landed over the embankment. It was a pretty wild ride.
I got it home and ordered a new pair of axles and a new brake backing plate and put it back together. After that it wouldn't drive right. I messed around with the alignment and reworked the rear sway bar links (one was broke) and nothing helped. Its a good thing I have other vehicles.
So yesterday I decided it was time to get this figured out. The first thing I did was jack up both back wheels and found the passenger side wheel bearing was bad. It had broken the outer lip of the inner race (the part that the oil seal snaps over). This was a new bearing (the tapered kind). I went down to my parts shed and got the old axle from the drivers side and put it in. I drove it maybe 5 miles and it felt pretty good. I put it back in the garage and lifted the rear and checked for play. Sure enough, the wheel moved in and out almost a quarter of an inch. (It was tight before I drove it)
So now I'm wondering if I bent the axle housing and its not letting the bearing seat properly or maybe I broke the new bearing when I installed it and the old axle I put in was just shot. I don't really want to change the whole rear end but I also don't want to keep throwing bearings at it either.
Any thoughts on this?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 02:51 PM
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I dont think you have any choice but to search for a replacement axle. You could just check the trueness of the housing but I have no clue how to do so. If you are having alignment issues maybe it is time to look for a new rear end.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 03:55 PM
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sounds like the diff housing is bent.

it is normal though to have some play towards the pumpkin and back out due to the C clips. its the updown play that shouldnt be there. If you tow often i suggest looking into a D60 or chev 14bolt and then just do the 8 lug conversion up front.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 04:25 PM
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the passenger side axle and drivers side are different lengths you said you installed the passengers side axle in the drivers side i would get a new axle, did you put the c clip on the axle you put in?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 07:57 PM
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It's a 9 inch so there are no clips. Wheel bearings are pressed on with outboard retainers. The axle tube doesn't look bent but I doubt it would take very much.

If I were to get a rear end with a 3:50 gear (it has 3:00 now) how much work is it to change the ring and pinion in the front? (Dana 44 I think)

Thanks for the replies.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by sivart
It's a 9 inch so there are no clips. Wheel bearings are pressed on with outboard retainers. The axle tube doesn't look bent but I doubt it would take very much.

If I were to get a rear end with a 3:50 gear (it has 3:00 now) how much work is it to change the ring and pinion in the front? (Dana 44 I think)

Thanks for the replies.
The front design is similar to the 9'' in that it is a drop out style, so your easiest route would be to find front 3rd member with 3.54 gears and swap it in.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 07:38 AM
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may check the 88 and up 1/2 tons and or broncos as the gear ratios in many of those were 3.54 for the IFS 44.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 10:30 AM
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yup just what they said. locate the front pumpkin from an 87+ with 3.54 and swap the whole pumpkin in place of what you have. those 3.08's were probably killen ya anyway
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 01:07 PM
  #9  
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Thanks for the replies. I've been laid off work for a month and just heard the place I work for (21 years) is probably closing so I have to really watch what I spend now. I picked up a 9 inch rear end this morning with the same gear but no limited slip. The gear change is going to have to wait for now but I think I will probably take the third member from the old rear end and freshen up the limited slip stuff and use it. I'll probably have some more questions when I get into it hopefully later on today.

One question; do I need to pull the axles to remove the third member?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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I would think you need to pull the axles to pull that part.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 05:27 PM
  #11  
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OK got the new rear end pulled apart and will definitely use my old third member. Does anyone have any links or info on replacing the clutch packs in the LSD? I could probably figure it out but I like to read up on stuff if I can.
Also, where's a good place to order these parts? I don't think I can get them locally. Thanks
 
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 08:46 PM
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Repair manuals like haynes and the like show the rebuilds. Broncograveyard may have the pieces you need.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 01:12 AM
  #13  
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OK I got the new rear end put back together and bolted in the truck. Went for a drive and it felt a lot better. It still has (always had) a slight pull to the right. What I notice now is when I take a corner (right hand turns are a little worse) it doesn't want to straighten itself out. It just wants to keep turning. I looked at the pivot bushings and they don't look bad but the front one does look a little loose in the beam. I pried on it with a pry bar and it didn't move too much but that was with the tires on the ground. Ball joints, tie rod ends, and wheel bearings are all good. I almost feel like it's a caster issue but it never drove like this until after my little "incident". It was a hell of a ride but would something like that change the caster?
 
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