Cracked exhaust manifold
#1
Cracked exhaust manifold
Iam about to replace my cracked exhaust manifold on my 1975 F-100 with a 360, The last 3 days I have sprayed the bolts with Kroil penitrating oil and wondered if They wont budge if anyone has a better idea if I need one.
Also do I need any gasket sealant on the exhaust gasket.
Also do I need any gasket sealant on the exhaust gasket.
#2
Mine were all rusted to the head due to sitting in a field for 12 years, I was lucky enough to be doing a top end at the time too, so I pulled the heads off with the manifolds still attatched. Used an impact to pull the bolts out that I hadn't already broken off, so in short, no not really a better idea unless somehow you can get an impact on them. The "banging" of it will break them loose as opposed to breaking them off like shear strength will do. As far as the gasket apparently the head and exhaust manifold are machined surfaces so you don't need a gasket, mine I put gaskets on but didn't use any sealant and I do not have any leaks. Good luck man.
#3
#4
If you cant break it loose and you are afraid its gonna break, torch or grind the bolt head off. Its the only way you're gonna have enough bolt left to clamp to. If the bolt breaks off flush with the head you are pretty much screwed. Machine shops can drill them out, and if necessary they can rethread it a larger size.
I also heat around the bolt, try not to heat the bolt as much as possible. Once its good and hot smear some wax on it. It runs down in the threads and acts like penetrating oil, only without the flammability. Clamp your vice grips on it and work it back and forth while your backing it out.
Finess is key.
I also heat around the bolt, try not to heat the bolt as much as possible. Once its good and hot smear some wax on it. It runs down in the threads and acts like penetrating oil, only without the flammability. Clamp your vice grips on it and work it back and forth while your backing it out.
Finess is key.
#5
#7
One my 400 I drilled as small hole through the manifold just outside the radius of the washer at an angle to get to the threads. I then sprayed PB Blaster into the hole and hit the bolt with a hammer to get the oil to penetrate further. I did this a few times a day for over a week and was able to get all 16 bolts out without having one break. There was quite a bit of gunk on the bolts when I pulled them out, but the PB Blaster really seemed to break it up. The main trick was giving it enough time to work and getting it directly onto the threads.
Trending Topics
#8
You need an oxy-acetelene torch with a BIG osebud tip.
Heat the hell out of em - REEEED HOT.
CAREFULLY work the bolt back and forth. If you're not 100000% sure it's ready to come out, more heat is in order. CAREFULLY try to back it out again.
Repeat until the bolt will come out.
I've never broken one off with this method.
Heat the hell out of em - REEEED HOT.
CAREFULLY work the bolt back and forth. If you're not 100000% sure it's ready to come out, more heat is in order. CAREFULLY try to back it out again.
Repeat until the bolt will come out.
I've never broken one off with this method.
#9
Iam about to replace my cracked exhaust manifold on my 1975 F-100 with a 360, The last 3 days I have sprayed the bolts with Kroil penitrating oil and wondered if They wont budge if anyone has a better idea if I need one.
Also do I need any gasket sealant on the exhaust gasket.
Also do I need any gasket sealant on the exhaust gasket.
I have learned a trick from a shop friend, and it needs to be done right,. so ,.. if you heat the manifold bolts red hot with some torches,.. then quench them with cold water,.. it might take a couple of times,. this usually will burn off the corrosion that's in the threads,.. and then take care removing them ,.. dont use air tools to remove them,. use hand tools, and only 6 point. not 12. you will have a better feel for them as u work them loose.. this way is faster. I have had problems myself over the years with thes exhaust manifolds warping and leaking. or cracking. I hope this helps..