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JHoffman93,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
If the glow plugs installed were anything other than Motorcraft/Beru ZD 9 glow plugs, new means nothing.
I have read posts of users only getting 2 or 3 starts out of some of the other brands.
86 and earlier glow plug controllers screwed into the coolant jacket and the glow time was controlled by coolant temp and time.
87 and newer glow plug controlers sence resistance feed back from the glow plugs, no temp sensor involved, no timer involved.
Where is the temp sender for the gp's I thought they were just resistance controlled.
You're right. I should have said that it didn't pertain to his truck.
That's what I get for trying to be Mr. Mom and making dinner while messing around on the computer.
Dinner was saved. Mrs. was happy when she came home from work.
Just the way I planned it
Jason
If momma ain't happy nobodys happy the only time mine gets me to cook though is outside on the pit and fryer though but she likes it when that happens.
Thanks guys, I can tell aready that this forum is going to be a lot of help. You all seem to be a bit more friendly then they are on Fred's TDI Club forum. Now back to the truck. I do have Motorcraft glowplugs installed. So if I understand right, the only thing that controls the gps is the resistance across them. It doesn't care how cold it is outside? I hope to get a chance to play with the beast this weekend and check the gps to see if I have any burned out and add an extra ground to the controler. The info on cavitation was very informative and I'm glad I know about it. I'll be sure to keep everyone informed on my progress when I start tackling some of the problems the truck has. Thanks again.
By the way, did I understand correctly that when starting the truck when it is 50 deg. or colder to depress the go pedal all the way to the floor and about half way when it is 51 deg. or warmer when the engine is cold?
Your hard pedal until motor has run for awhile is going to be a vacumn problem.
I hope your cluncking is your carrier bearing one common clunking noise is the dualmass clutch. slop in your carrier bearing will also cause a vibration.
Starmilt, hopefully his clunking isn't his DMF, cuz my truck has a good clunk, especially from 1st to reverse and I gotta a auto, so my bet is a combo of 3 worn U-joints, worn carrier bearing, and a worn yolk.
By the way, did I understand correctly that when starting the truck when it is 50 deg. or colder to depress the go pedal all the way to the floor and about half way when it is 51 deg. or warmer when the engine is cold?
When starting cold, press and release the pedal to set the high idle solenoid. It doesn't have enough power to move the throttle, but it will hold it in place once it comes back towards the idle position. Do not hold the throttle down at all when starting!!! You want to make sure the engine has oil pressure before revving it.
When I start mine, I don't even touch the pedal until the engine has started and oil pressure comes up for a few seconds. Then I bump the throttle slightly to bring on the fast idle. No matter what the temperature.
I am currently waiting for my '92 two-fiddy book set to show, 109 shipped on ebay. they had several engine books for about 30 shipped but chassis is harder to come by.
I don't think that the clunk is the DMF because the PO changed the clutch and flywheel. He said that he upgraded it but I didn't understand compleatly what he did other then that he changed them. Is it normal for the yoke to be worn bad enough to clunk with only 177k on it. The truck never towed anything real heavy. No fifth wheels.
I don't think that the clunk is the DMF because the PO changed the clutch and flywheel. He said that he upgraded it but I didn't understand compleatly what he did other then that he changed them. Is it normal for the yoke to be worn bad enough to clunk with only 177k on it. The truck never towed anything real heavy. No fifth wheels.
I've replaced quite a few 10.25 yokes over the years, so they do wear. I would replace the carrier bearing and see if the problem goes away.
When checking the u joints, you want to have the transmission in neutral to remove any bind on the drivetrain. Set the brake and block the wheels
Another possibility of a clunk could be from loose engine or transmission mounts.
It is also possible that the rear axle u-bolts may be loose causing the axle to torque on the springs.
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