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I replaced the pads on my wife's G-35x and had the garage nice and warm so I decided to replace the front pads and rotors on my 2002 F-250. Easy job no problem right? Well I got everything apart and had all the parts ready to go back on. All was good until I tried to put the caliper back on and it wouldn't fit. I was about 3/16ths of an inch short of sliding over the mounting bolts. I had plenty of clearance on the pistons so it seemed to me that the outboard pad was too thick. So I brought them back and went to another parts store thinking that the first placed had the wrong numbers or something but the second store had the same size pads. To get the truck up and running I ended up putting the old pads back on.
Now, I have done a few brake jobs and never had this happen before, has anyone here had this problem?
Am I missing something here? Are there different pad thickness for different years? Do I have a half year truck? This is driving me crazy!
The caliper piston had to have not been fully seated, back into the caliper. Check the brake fluid resivior, and see if their is enough free space for all the fluid to be forced back up into it, when you push the piston back into the caliper.
The caliper piston had to have not been fully seated, back into the caliper. Check the brake fluid resivior, and see if their is enough free space for all the fluid to be forced back up into it, when you push the piston back into the caliper.
Pistons are bottomed out plenty of clearance on the inboard pad and the pistons.
Pistons are bottomed out plenty of clearance on the inboard pad and the pistons.
The caliper floats. If there is enough clearance on one side, the caliper should move over to make clearance on the other side. Are your slide pins stuck?
Does anyone know where I can find the specs on pad thickness?
FMSI is a standard that the brake lining runs on. If your pads went into your caliper then you got the right pad. The 756 and the 1068 are an entirely different shape pad. I looked in my Abex and Performance Friction books and neither show a thickness. If the pads went into the caliper then I'd hazard to say you didn't have the caliper bottomed out.
The caliper floats. If there is enough clearance on one side, the caliper should move over to make clearance on the other side. Are your slide pins stuck?
Oh man I think thats it. The slide pins would be where the caliper bolts up on the inboard side, correct? If that is the case then my slide pins are as solid as the rest of the caliper. How do I get them out?
Yes, the two bolts that hold on the caliper go into the end of the slide pins. They should have boots on them and should slide in and out.
If they're not sliding, you need to figure out how to get them out, clean them up and lube them. If they are completely frozen, you may end up replacing the caliper anchor plate. I have heard of people using heat to break them loose and remove them, then clean and grease them up and reinstall them. I'm not sure if this wouldn't leave you open for problems in the future, however.
One caveat about what I'm posting. I've never actually had these apart on my truck and looked at them. I believe from past experience with my Dad's '96, and the diagrams that I'm looking at from my 2004 service manual, that I'm correct. I don't have an exploded diagram though, and the one I have isn't the best. One thing I am pretty sure about is that the slide pins have accordion type boots on them, to allow them to move in and out and still be protected. If you're looking at these boots and what they're attached to doesn't move, then I think we're both on the right track.
Yes, the two bolts that hold on the caliper go into the end of the slide pins. They should have boots on them and should slide in and out.
If they're not sliding, you need to figure out how to get them out, clean them up and lube them. If they are completely frozen, you may end up replacing the caliper anchor plate. I have heard of people using heat to break them loose and remove them, then clean and grease them up and reinstall them. I'm not sure if this wouldn't leave you open for problems in the future, however.
One caveat about what I'm posting. I've never actually had these apart on my truck and looked at them. I believe from past experience with my Dad's '96, and the diagrams that I'm looking at from my 2004 service manual, that I'm correct. I don't have an exploded diagram though, and the one I have isn't the best. One thing I am pretty sure about is that the slide pins have accordion type boots on them, to allow them to move in and out and still be protected. If you're looking at these boots and what they're attached to doesn't move, then I think we're both on the right track.
I'd like to thank everyone for your responses. Looks like I have some work to do. I'll post what I did to get the frozen slide pins out.
Thanks again.
Dave
I'll post what I did to get the frozen slide pins out.
When I did the front brakes on my Excursion, one of the caliper slide pins was gummed up and stuck, but not too much, and it was easy enough for me to use a pair of vice grips (or maybe it was a pair of channel locks...it was awhile ago and I can't remember for sure), working the pin back and forth, finally getting it pulled from the caliper.
I carefully wrapped some scotch brite pad around a small drill bit and used my cordless drill to completely clean out the pin bore with the scotch brite pad.
A little brake cleaner, some new caliper pins, and some Ford caliper pin slide grease and it was good as new.
just a precaution when ever using a firewrench on brake lines be shure to open bleeder
or remove hose. fluid will expand and explode the hose possibly hurting someone
or at the least you will have to change your shorts just my .02