More on safety chains
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Blackwater, VA
More on safety chains
did a quick search of the forum and didn't turn up an obvious answer to my questions:
how do you determine the correct length for safety chains?
what is the safest/recommended way to attach them to the trailer?
i tow a 2-horse straight load tagalong with a max weight of 8100 lbs with the truck in my sig
it already has chains on it, but i have no idea how good they are or even what they're rated, so i think i'm just going to put new ones on
how do you determine the correct length for safety chains?
what is the safest/recommended way to attach them to the trailer?
i tow a 2-horse straight load tagalong with a max weight of 8100 lbs with the truck in my sig
it already has chains on it, but i have no idea how good they are or even what they're rated, so i think i'm just going to put new ones on
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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The correct length would be the length needed to go from trailer frame attachment point to tow vehicle attachment point, while the chain "sags" in the center to within 5"-6" of the ground. Also, the chains should cross each other when installed (so in theory when the trailer comes loose, the trailer tongue will be cradled by the chains and prevent the trailer tongue from violently digging into the pavement and causing more problems).
I believe that 5/16" chain would be more than sufficient for your purpose. Attachment to the trailer can be by bolt and washer or welding.
Another possibility would be to have a couple of short steel cables made (same length as the chains would be)with "eyes" swedged at each end. Cables are a lot easier to deal with and don't collect as much dirt, rust, etc.
Good luck
I believe that 5/16" chain would be more than sufficient for your purpose. Attachment to the trailer can be by bolt and washer or welding.
Another possibility would be to have a couple of short steel cables made (same length as the chains would be)with "eyes" swedged at each end. Cables are a lot easier to deal with and don't collect as much dirt, rust, etc.
Good luck
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,496
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From: Simpsonville, KY
Cables can't handle the weight. I got transport chain, the strongest I could find, and 1/2" grade 8 bolts to attach to the tongue.
As far as length, they need to be long enough to loop gently and not get too tight when in a sharp turn. They absolutely should not be overly long, so proper adjustment is key. One trick I inadvertantly learned when chaining a car hauler is if you buy the proper hooks (and not just "S" hooks, which are FAR too weak for any size trailer) they can be adjusted up and down the links with just the quick exchange of the cotter pin. That way you can customize the length based on each truck. In my case, my roomate's chevy's clips required a shorter chain than my neighbor's (it was her trailer) Dodge, which needed longer chains. I've never ever had a problem with different lengths before this paticular trailer.
As far as length, they need to be long enough to loop gently and not get too tight when in a sharp turn. They absolutely should not be overly long, so proper adjustment is key. One trick I inadvertantly learned when chaining a car hauler is if you buy the proper hooks (and not just "S" hooks, which are FAR too weak for any size trailer) they can be adjusted up and down the links with just the quick exchange of the cotter pin. That way you can customize the length based on each truck. In my case, my roomate's chevy's clips required a shorter chain than my neighbor's (it was her trailer) Dodge, which needed longer chains. I've never ever had a problem with different lengths before this paticular trailer.
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From: Blackwater, VA
hmmm, so S hooks are a no-no...i guess my gut reactions are usually on the right track, because i was thinking of getting something more secure when i put the new chains on
thanks
thanks
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,496
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From: Simpsonville, KY
Yup, those are the clips I used. They aren't cheap ($10ish each) but they can be readjusted, removed, reinstalled, and are very strong. The clip works great to keep the hook latched on. Just use those, some 3/8" or whatever you can fit on the trailer grade 70 transport chain, and some grade 8 bolts to finish it off. I think the chains I installed on my friend's trailer cost me $25, including a cobolt tipped drill bit to widen the slits the chains attached to.
I wouldn't recommend the other link, they are a pain in the butt to latch when they rust, and they are very very weak if the screw isn't tightened every time you hook the trailer.
I wouldn't recommend the other link, they are a pain in the butt to latch when they rust, and they are very very weak if the screw isn't tightened every time you hook the trailer.
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Blackwater, VA
thanks for the all info...might have to go see what i can order through napa, they're advertising a sale this month on all towing supplies. how kind of them lol 
truck needs a brake controller as well...
truck needs a brake controller as well...
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
