well like the subject says, i dont know what else to do. i am having a battle with the esof not engaging, i bought a vaccum gauge and check it right at the hubs, drivers side nuthin, and pass side goes up to 5hg and then drops fast. so reading guzzels page and using this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html for instuctions, i replace all three seals on the drivers side today. after i was finished and before i put the wheel on i got my vaccum gauge out and hooked it up to the hub again, and i got absolutly no vaccum, i am so
p*&ssed off i do not know what to do next, and i dont want to do the pass side and waste my time.

i really want my esof to work, not because i am lazy and dont want to get out of my truck to lock the hubs, but just for the fact that i have it and i want it to work. i am perticular about my things and cant stand it when stuff doesnt work.


sorry for being long winded, but i am at my wits end, and just spent 265 bucks for all these seals. one thing that i am thinking might be the problem but dont know if it is possible, but could the auto lock hub leak at where you maunally turn the hub, not at the oring on the auto hub (do i make sense?) any ideas would be great on what i should do now, and if there isnt i guess i will just bypass the esof solenoid and lock them manually.

thanks

clint

 

When you were measuring vacuum, was that from the tube, that goes to the knuckle? As in it was removed from the knuckle, and you were measuring the vacuum on the line? Also, the lines are plastic, and known to break, but you shuold really start at the vacuum switch, for the esof on the passenger fender. Make sure when you engage 4wd, it switches.

 

You can start from either end, but you will need to check one thing at a time. checking at the hubs is checking the entire vacuum system. Unplug at the solenoid and start there. If you have vacuum, move on down the line until you find the problem. It could be a bad solenoid, bad pump, leaking canister, broken lines or fittings or depending on some other symptoms, it could even be in the HVAC controls.

 

yes it was from the nipple on the hub, i removed the rubber line, i also replaced the rubber line as well, so even if i was to use the rubber line with the vacuum gauge i know the line is good

 

what do you mean checking at the hubs is checking the entire system, if i dont have any vaccumm showing on my guage at the hub, doesnt that mean that somethin is leaking ?? but i changed all the seals, this is what i cant understand

 

You pulled the vacuum on the hub itself? I read it as you were check the vacuum on the rubber hose at the hubs. If you are trying to pull a vacuum on the hub and not getting any results, then it has to be a leaking hub. Now you know why I have Warns.

 

Clint, tell me exactly how you are checking the vacuum at the hubs. I'm not sure I am understanding you.

 

I fixed mine really easy. It cost about $185 and said...WARN!

 

i replaced all the seals on the drivers side, the black o-ring on the auto hub, the big yellow o-ring and the big knuckle seal, then i took my vacuum gauge and put it right on the nipple on the hub. tried pumping the vacuum gauge and i got nothing. 4 hrs later and 140 bucks for one side and i got no vacuum. i dont want to get "warn" hubs, i want the vacuum to work

if i cant get it to work i am not spending more money on this truck, i will cap off the line at the solenoid.

 

Assuming you had a good seal and your pump is working, then it sounds like you still have a leak. Check you pump/gauge by placing your finger over the end you put on the nipple and pump it, see if the gauge moves. If so, then you need to make sure you have and air tight seal on the nipple. If all is well, then you may need to pull you hub back out and make sure nothing moved or slipped.

 

how did you install the new seal, the big one that goes on the axle?

 

my pump gauge works fine, as far as the nipple, seems good, like i said i replaced the rubber hose as well so even when i tried it by using the hose same results, i will try a zip tie on the nipple today, maybe it just need alittle extra

i used the home made jobber that was decribed in another thread

1 1/4 galv pipe
1 1/4 cap
1 1/4 flange

at first when i went to put the seal on with it the flange fit good on the metal ring but the seal seemed to have movement while pounding on it, so i stopped trying to drive it in because it would not go for one. so i took the flange to my grinder and made it smaller so it would fit inside the outside metal ring and then when i pounded on that it went on with no problem at all, because it was a solid hit . hope i make sense, could i have damaged the knuckle seal ? i mean i pushed down before to remove any slack before i hit on it, but like i said after i grinded the flange smaller, it fit right on the solid metal.

 

i have to put a seal in my truck this weekend. i was able to massage one side and it worked fine when i was replacing the ball joints, but the other side that worked fine before now leaks and i have to use the manual hub. the two piece lip seal has to be installed by pushing the inside part on the axle only. id guess that you fubard the seal. but thats just a guess. when i tested my hub ( the same way you did) i was able to hear the hiss of the vac leak from the bad seal. i could hear the sucking from the back of the hub an not the front. my other side ( the hub) maintains the vac of the pump no problem.

i cut a piece of pipe to install my seal but i have yet to use it. i agree that its a pain in the butt to have to use the manual hubs but I'm sure glad that ford put hubs with a manual option in them. most manufactures don't.

are the warn hubs automatic? Ive always ended up using warn on my other trucks but thats because the factory ones didn't have the manual option.

try and hear if you can the leak. if you cant build vacuum at all then its a good leak.

ps. i looked very hard to find an aftermarket seal. i get the ford one for just over 50 bucks here, and thats a great deal they want 82.00. i couldn't find one any where.

 

Warn hubs are manual and I do have to get out and lock them. Not always the most convenient to do, but after my ESOF setup left me nearly stuck in the sand for the second time because it would not stay locked in and finally when I went to manually lock them to find one froze up and had to use an adjustable wrench to turn it, I changed to Warns, plugged off the vacuum lines and never looked back.

 

if mine pack up il go that route, but for now the hubs that i have are fine. like i said having that manual option is all im after. i think the ford hubs are plenty strong. one of my hubs, the working one, had to be truned with a channel lock handle as well..lol. but they got me home in the snow storm.