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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 12:06 AM
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another ? about engine swap headers

I have a '75 F-250 4x4 that originally came with an FE. Well the truck has fell victim of idle time and creativity and the result has been back halfing the truck with a triangulated four bar and swapping out the 360 for my 302 from my mustang which got wrecked a few years back and a whole list of other mods. The trouble im having is finding a header (of any config.) to fit my specifics. Seems like they're only available for broncos or for years above mine or two digs. Is there a difference in a bronco frame from a 250 frame same year? Any suggestions for a short cut that will work for my situation? (center dump block hugger? shorty rear exit? Different application that will work off paper and away from a catalog?)
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 11:55 AM
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H, I believe I would think about staying with an FE and build a 390 or larger. A little 302 is going to be working pretty hard to push your 250 around. But if you really think you must have the 302 you might look at sanderson shorties, or maybe headers for a 302 in an early bronco. The early bronco would have a truck frame and I would have to guess that the framerails are closer together in the little truck than in your 250. You could try a set and see how they fit.

But you have to keep in mind the reason that noone makes a header specifically for this swap might be that it is a bad idea. A 4x4 F250 is large, heavy, and about as aero as a brick wall. How about a stroker version of the FE ? You could use the 360s block and heads, and get a rotating assembly with a 4.25 crank and have 440+ inches. And abunch more torque than your 302 could ever hope for. Something to think about. DinosaurFan
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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Thanks dinosaur. Along the lines of your suggestion and one of my original thoughts was the need of a shorty style header. I did find a header that worked for me, Summit brand block huggers made by patriot. Super cheep and with minor clearance issues such as M/M and having to gain room around my starter which is a summit 18 posistion mini starter, they look and work great. Boy and whole other list of mods had to be made to put in the small block but weren't out of reach or unfeasible.

Now a little more detail about the truck, although its gonna be a daily driver, it doesn't have too much work responsibilty these days. After four linkin' the rear and choppin off over half the bed and cuttin down the front clip to a buggie style wedge, its lost quite a bit of weight as well. The diffs now have 4.88's with a NP 435 main box with an NP 205 case inbetween them. I replaced the heavy d44 hd with the large birfields and the ranger springs to a high pinion d44 with kingpins and four main leaves out of a half ton. Im just lookin to have fun with the truck on the street and be able to have fun rollin over some rocks in the hills and drivin over my buddie's toyota. haha. Its just something to do with the engine from my 69 mach one that wrecked a few years ago. I dont have anything against the FE'S, in fact someday I would love to horse around with one and see what they really can do when Im in a posistion for such. We all can agree a Ford engine of the good 'ol days is a terrible thing to waste.

 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 02:06 AM
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Did the '78/'79 broncos have small blocks? It has been a LONG time since I have messed with the '79's fords. If so they should work. Mustang shorties should as well.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 351M
Did the '78/'79 broncos have small blocks? It has been a LONG time since I have messed with the '79's fords. If so they should work. Mustang shorties should as well.
No they didn't.

Look at a set of 2wd headers for 302 in an F100/150, and that should be close. You might have to do some rebending at the collector end to clear tcase linkage or transmission, but overall it shouldn't be too hard, and best of all they would be long tubes. If you know someone that has a 2wd with this combo either on here, or in person that can measure frame widths, header widths, etc....you can get a good idea before spending the money via trial and error.

If you have any lift built into the front, the axle should clear on full suspension compression.
 
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