a safer way 2 chg AT fluid w/175K
#1
a safer way 2 chg AT fluid w/175K
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="1" width="100%"><tbody><tr class="tr_post" id="tr_post48630"><td class="windowbg" align="left" bgcolor="#dddddd" height="100%" valign="top" width="80%"><table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" height="100%" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td colspan="3" valign="top">mark or anyone,what do you think?
1989 E250 w/od
I ve made a dozen queries to service departments around southern california.
Most said
"if I havent serviced the AT regularly(?miles) ,they said this :
"Whether a drain or flush ,there is a RISK of the new fluid(4-14 qts+-) dislodging particle buildup in the A/T and possibly allowing some particles to lodge somewhere new and really screwing the AT up.
I have only drained the AT once in 175K.
They all suggested I do nothing and wait (and see what happens).
Even the addition of as little as 4 quarts with the pan/filter change is enough to break crud loose and could make things worse.
So..To keep the new fluid from releasing so much crud in a short interval of time,how about reducing the shock effect that even 4 qts may have by adding smaller amounts of fluid along the way?
Here's my idea:
Slowly, over some mileage interval, remove a small amount ATF (1qt for example)through the dip stick tube and introduce 1 new qt ?
It would seem that by doing it this way it would be less likely to dislodge too much crud all at once .
This is the only way I can figure out how to change the fluid and avoid or reduce the sudden release of crud buildup which MAY ruin the AT.
Your thoughts?
.
<!-- google_ad_section_end --> </td></tr><tr><td class="windowbg" colspan="3" align="left" bgcolor="#dddddd" valign="bottom"><table border="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td align="left">« Last Edit: Today at 2:27pm by palmsprings »</td><td align="right">Report to Mod - Link to Post - Back to Top Logged</td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="titlebg" bgcolor="#000000" width="100%"><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td width="50%"> </td><td align="right" width="50%"> ******** type="text/javascript"> function showShareUI() { var act = new gigya.services.socialize.UserAction(); act.setUserMessage("Your comment here..."); act.setTitle(" a safer way 2 chg AT fluid w/175K ?"); act.setDescription("Joel..what do you think? I ve made a dozen queries to service departments at mitsubiti shops around southern california. Most said "if I havent serviced the AT regularly(?miles) ,they said this :"); act.setLinkBack("http://msport97.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=msport97&action=display&thread=912 9"); act.addMediaItem( { type : 'image', src : 'http://images.proboards.com/share.png', href : 'http://msport97.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=msport97&action=display&thread=912 9' }); var paramss = { userAction: act ,showMoreButton: true ,showEmailButton: true ,useHTML : true ,grayedOutScreenOpacity : 30 } gigya.services.socialize.showShareUI(conf, paramss); } *********> </td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table>
1989 E250 w/od
I ve made a dozen queries to service departments around southern california.
Most said
"if I havent serviced the AT regularly(?miles) ,they said this :
"Whether a drain or flush ,there is a RISK of the new fluid(4-14 qts+-) dislodging particle buildup in the A/T and possibly allowing some particles to lodge somewhere new and really screwing the AT up.
I have only drained the AT once in 175K.
They all suggested I do nothing and wait (and see what happens).
Even the addition of as little as 4 quarts with the pan/filter change is enough to break crud loose and could make things worse.
So..To keep the new fluid from releasing so much crud in a short interval of time,how about reducing the shock effect that even 4 qts may have by adding smaller amounts of fluid along the way?
Here's my idea:
Slowly, over some mileage interval, remove a small amount ATF (1qt for example)through the dip stick tube and introduce 1 new qt ?
It would seem that by doing it this way it would be less likely to dislodge too much crud all at once .
This is the only way I can figure out how to change the fluid and avoid or reduce the sudden release of crud buildup which MAY ruin the AT.
Your thoughts?
.
<!-- google_ad_section_end --> </td></tr><tr><td class="windowbg" colspan="3" align="left" bgcolor="#dddddd" valign="bottom"><table border="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td align="left">« Last Edit: Today at 2:27pm by palmsprings »</td><td align="right">Report to Mod - Link to Post - Back to Top Logged</td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="titlebg" bgcolor="#000000" width="100%"><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td width="50%"> </td><td align="right" width="50%"> ******** type="text/javascript"> function showShareUI() { var act = new gigya.services.socialize.UserAction(); act.setUserMessage("Your comment here..."); act.setTitle(" a safer way 2 chg AT fluid w/175K ?"); act.setDescription("Joel..what do you think? I ve made a dozen queries to service departments at mitsubiti shops around southern california. Most said "if I havent serviced the AT regularly(?miles) ,they said this :"); act.setLinkBack("http://msport97.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=msport97&action=display&thread=912 9"); act.addMediaItem( { type : 'image', src : 'http://images.proboards.com/share.png', href : 'http://msport97.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=msport97&action=display&thread=912 9' }); var paramss = { userAction: act ,showMoreButton: true ,showEmailButton: true ,useHTML : true ,grayedOutScreenOpacity : 30 } gigya.services.socialize.showShareUI(conf, paramss); } *********> </td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table>
#2
My thoughts are that's a bunch of bull. Either change the fluid or don't. If it were my transmission I'd do this: Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 transmission .: Articles
#3
Whew! good
Thanks Mark...that should put it to rest for me and others.
Its a waste land of mayhem and destruction out there trying to find credible people with creditable opinions.
I rest better now not having to beat the fact finding and the decision process to death.
Its a waste land of mayhem and destruction out there trying to find credible people with creditable opinions.
I rest better now not having to beat the fact finding and the decision process to death.
My thoughts are that's a bunch of bull. Either change the fluid or don't. If it were my transmission I'd do this: Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 transmission .: Articles
#4
#5
Changing tranny fluid is a simple and easy procedure. Do it yourself, most shops don’t even drain the converter and I have even ran into a couple of shops that don’t even know how. My only advice would be to add a drain plug to the pan while you have it off. It makes changing the fluid much easier next time. You pull the plug and drain the pan before unbolting it and you don’t have the fluid running all over the place when you lower the pan down.
Never let them flush your tranny. You are just asking for trouble. That will really break the sludge loose.
Never let them flush your tranny. You are just asking for trouble. That will really break the sludge loose.
#7
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#8
#9
Gee Mark, I am not a transmission engineer neither former nor latter. I am just a gearhead with over 6o years working on cars. I have seen the insides of a lot of transmissions as well and every time I pull the pan down I find gunk (sludge) in the bottom of the pan. I have found little pieces of brass, gunk from worn off pieces of clutch material, etc. This would be exceptionally heavy with a tranny with 175k of wear on it that has never been previously serviced. Now if you are going to go to a legit transmission shop to have the tranny flushed. Then flushing is ok. But the average Joe is going to drive into the nearest iffy lube and say flush my tranny. Have you ever seen these guys flush a tranny? They stick a suction tube down into the dipstick hole and suck the fluid out of the pan. They don’t even bother with the converter. Then they dump the flush in and run it through the gears. They then suck the pan again and refill it with fluid. Now what happens to all that sludge? You don’t think it can get kicked up and get sucked into the valve body? How about the flush? Could it be all mixed up with the fluid that was in the converter? Remember they only sucked the pan each time. This is why people on here say not to get the tranny flushed. Many of them have went down this road and ended up in trouble.
#10
OK, we're not talking about the same thing. I should have called it a fluid exchange instead of a flush. NEVER use a procedure that uses some type of flush chemical!!!!!!!!!!!!
What I am talking about is the machine that connects into the cooler lines. It removes the old fluid and replaces it with new fluid. Either that or use the procedure I wrote that does the same thing at home without the machine.
I think we can agree that any method that introduces chemicals into the trans is just asking for trouble.
What I am talking about is the machine that connects into the cooler lines. It removes the old fluid and replaces it with new fluid. Either that or use the procedure I wrote that does the same thing at home without the machine.
I think we can agree that any method that introduces chemicals into the trans is just asking for trouble.
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