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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 12:35 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Riffraff Performance
Chase- Remember that it isn't so much the windshield that determines if it will leak... It is the installer and what system and products they use. If you get a guy that is minimum wage and doesn't care you will have the same issues no matter where you go. The companies that charge more usually do because there guys are certified and making decent money. Just my .02 from having dozens and dozens of glass replaced as a manager in my previous profession.
Very true, but not all windshields are the same just like not all alternators, tie rods, transmissions etc. are the same. I am more worried about a half-azz install than anything though, at least Safelite has a guarantee. At least now I can get rid of that stupid antenna stuck to the window...
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 12:36 PM
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Is the glass on these trucks held in w/a rubber seal, or that black urethane crap???
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 12:37 PM
  #18  
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I ran my OEM windshield almost 190,000 miles.
I put an aftermarket windshield in about and it's worse after 60,000 miles than the OEM one was when I replaced it.
My next windshield will be OEM.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 12:46 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
Is the glass on these trucks held in w/a rubber seal, or that black urethane crap???
Should have both I believe. The rubber is just a beauty ring type deal, with the urethane underneath. Also, remember a guarantee just means they will fix it when its needs it, and from experience with Napa lifetime guaranteed parts I can tell you that it just means they are happy to continue swapping parts, it doesn't mean its a better product.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 01:01 PM
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I have heard that in the cooler climates it is not a good idea to use one of the mobile windsheild changing services. You are better off bring the vechicle to a place where they do it inside. Something about the cureing of the adhesives IIRC
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 01:23 PM
  #21  
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I remember when I bought my truck that my friend was impressed that it had a windshield used by Lincoln in their top models.... it's OEM but a higher grade somehow... I'll get the name of it, but I will say this: that thing took some pretty heavy hits and shrugged it off. I'd like to get the same when it's time.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 01:38 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by papadelogan
I remember when I bought my truck that my friend was impressed that it had a windshield used by Lincoln in their top models.... it's OEM but a higher grade somehow... I'll get the name of it, but I will say this: that thing took some pretty heavy hits and shrugged it off. I'd like to get the same when it's time.
How would a windshield from any Lincoln fit in an SD???
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 01:40 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
Is the glass on these trucks held in w/a rubber seal, or that black urethane crap???
The thing you need to be most concerned with is the way they remove the broken glass..A hand held manual blade versus a sawsall with a large flat blade ..The manual way does very little paint damage ,,the sawsall will damage the paint all the way around..

As far as the urethane goes , the latest product they use can be crash tested in about an hour..

mobil repair is ok if its not raining or snowing ,, It would be a good Idea to take a look at the pinch weld after the glass is removed (look for rust)..Most glass shops will not repair the rust properly on their own .

I have the glass shop remove the glass & leave ,,I then clean & prep the opening myself & call them back when its ready to install
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 01:59 PM
  #24  
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The biggest thing is the prep work.
And not moving the vehicle one inch until the urethane is cured.
I tell the customers that the best way to do it is to plan on leaving the vehicle for two days.
I have the tech come out, replace the windshield in the shop at the end of the day and then I leave it inside overnight so that the urethane can fully cure.
I never move it, start the engine, nothing until the next day.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 02:01 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Action4478
The thing you need to be most concerned with is the way they remove the broken glass..A hand held manual blade versus a sawsall with a large flat blade ..The manual way does very little paint damage ,,the sawsall will damage the paint all the way around..

As far as the urethane goes , the latest product they use can be crash tested in about an hour..

mobil repair is ok if its not raining or snowing ,, It would be a good Idea to take a look at the pinch weld after the glass is removed (look for rust)..Most glass shops will not repair the rust properly on their own .

I have the glass shop remove the glass & leave ,,I then clean & prep the opening myself & call them back when its ready to install
I was wondering about a DIY install if it was just a rubber seal... I won't even try it with the urethane stuff. That way if it leaks, taint my problem to worry about fixing it.
Sawsall to remove a windshield? That just sounds like a bad idea to me!
Just curious- if I called Safelite and have them come to my house, could I use a razor blade and putty knife to get the old glass out before they get there so I can have all the crap cleaned up and make sure there is no rust before they show up? Rust isn't a huge problem in this part of the world, but you can never be too sure...
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 02:40 PM
  #26  
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I cannot imagine they would mind if the old glass was already gone. But, weirder things have happened. Call and ask first to be safe. I have had a few windshields replace without a single issue. Always by a mobile unit.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 03:07 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
I was wondering about a DIY install if it was just a rubber seal... I won't even try it with the urethane stuff. That way if it leaks, taint my problem to worry about fixing it.
Sawsall to remove a windshield? That just sounds like a bad idea to me!
Just curious- if I called Safelite and have them come to my house, could I use a razor blade and putty knife to get the old glass out before they get there so I can have all the crap cleaned up and make sure there is no rust before they show up? Rust isn't a huge problem in this part of the world, but you can never be too sure...
They are not easy to remove ,,the sawsall has a special blade ..the other tools are here....

 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 03:23 PM
  #28  
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Those look like medieval torture tools...
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 04:26 PM
  #29  
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I'm not trying to be a jerk, but here's my take. Leave the windshield for the professionals. The safety laminated glass used in windshields is part of your roof structure, so one minor slip up, and the strength of your safety cage is reduced dramatically. Most people think windshields are just to protect them from the elements, but they are actually a significant part of the structure of the vehicle in a rollover. There are two methods used, full cut and close cut when removing your previous urethane adhesive. Full cut takes the bead to within fractions of an inch to the substrate, whereas the close cut method leaves a fairly significant amount of old adhesive. Full cut, obviously is the best if you can request it done. As far as glass, the aftermarket glasses I have had aren't as consistent in quality, one actually was wavy. The OEM glass is made by Carlite, which is a division of Ford glass. If possible, get the Carlite. The Carlite glass is the only one that has the 'super duty' sun visor on the top in a ceramic type bead so it doesn't wear off. While yes, the aftermarket glasses must pass safety standards, the overall quality of the glass and chip resistance isn't as good as with OEM glass. Obviously, price becomes important. The two main adhesives out there are Sikka, but Ford uses Essex. Sikka is one of the largest urethane manufacturers and are safety standard compliant, obviously. The fast cure adhesive that most certified installers use is crash worthy in less than an hour, however, with any windshield installation, leave you windows cracked, HVAC on vent, and don't slam the doors. You don't want to compromise the adhesive bond. Some adhesives are humidity cured, others aren't so ask about the curing method. Also, professional installers 'SHOULD' touch up any nicked areas in the windshield frame, as well. Sikka won't bond unless a primer and rust preventative are applied. When applying the adhesive, the cross section recommended by Carlite is triangular with a base of 8mm and height of 14-16mm. You don't want any air bubbles forming when you place the glass in place.

Oh, and don't use armor all anywhere on your truck, especially near the cowl on the inside. The oils used in armor all (silicones) won't allow a proper bond of your adhesive... Just one more reason to stay away from that junk....


Hope this helps! Good luck!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 04:34 PM
  #30  
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Oh yeah I forgot, at 0*F a mobile windshield was installed and 1 hour later was crash tested and has a 100% retention rate. Not sure I'd try that, but it can be done I suppose. I'd worry more about preperation!
 
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