1978 f150 Front Leaf Conversion.... Help!
I am going to be putting under a dana 60 and at the same time put leaf springs up front.. Now I can either custom fab up hangers and shackles or does anyone know some where that I can buy prefab for a 1978 f150. I will be putting a 12" leaf spring up front. I am just stuck at this part....
Any write ups and tips anything..
Thanks
Chris
I am going to be putting under a dana 60 and at the same time put leaf springs up front.. Now I can either custom fab up hangers and shackles or does anyone know some where that I can buy prefab for a 1978 f150. I will be putting a 12" leaf spring up front. I am just stuck at this part....
Any write ups and tips anything..
Thanks
Chris
!2" leaf spring up front? Man how much lift are you shooting for?
My 73 1/2 ton runs a 44" tire and I only run 8 inch springs. I did a leaf conversion myself, and intend to ditch them and return to a coil setup. I prefer the dual rate coilover, and probably should have done this in the first place.
Making hangers is pretty easy. I have used the super duty hanger kits in the past.
Any reason why you want to run such an agressive spring?
Now, lets take this a step further, If you decide to use an original pivot for the hanger, you will have to drill the frame. Not that bad of an idea, but perhaps since you are looking for mad lift, you want to consider mounting the pivot under the frame. If you do this, then you will have to lower the front original hanger down to keep caster in order and keep the spring at proper angles.
Here is an example of a pivot under the spring. Same truck. I use a Johnny Joint in the rear, but others may choose to use a bushing.
Looks like this:

Now, I have another option that some have not thought of, but which front axle are you using? What year is it? This is important for spring placement. For this conversion you may not be limited to a 78/9 D60F.
BTW, this truck is a 73 2wd 1/2 ton shortbed, converted to 1 ton 4wd with a mild 557.
This is my 1st conversion. I am going to be putting a 79 dana 60 under it. I kinda get what you mean but not really. Could you put your front by your bumper leafs on a bracket like that same as your rear shackle? So its all under the frame? Would that be strong? I am curious after some thought I may put a 3" body lift in and keep it to 8" suspension lift. My goal is 44"s. How much cutting did you have to do to fenders?
Cheers
Enough of that, since you are going to use a 78/9 front end, then the frame is the correct width to correspond with the spring perches. This means that the 78/9 bolt in hangers will work just fine. Pick up a set and see how they bolt in. Do not get confused with the rear axle or hangers associated with the rear. The rear hangers are mounted outboard of the frame and will not work in a front application. These will place the spring way too far outside and you will have problems here.
Since the 78/9 3/4 ton truck used bolt in hangers, then you can use them, or copy them and make them longer. Much will depend upon how much spring you actually use.
One of the guys we run with clears 44's with a truck similar to mine only still uses coil springs and the fenders are not cut. Looks clean, not all hacked up like mine.
Here is a custom hanger that you can fab up. Can You weld? I know that you mentioned you were a body guy, but I gotta ask.
Thanks for all the helps.
WOW....
Anyways I can weld sort of. I am going to do a lot of practice before I slap it in as its starting to snow now. Is there are write ups on this..
k.. Now another question lets say I mount the front under the frame like that and get 8" springs now the back.... Because those are about 1" under maybe little more the back springs will need to match for a level ride so would you get 9" springs for the rear?
Crazy stuff.....
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I would recommend that you get one end done first and then fab up the other end to give you the ride heigth that you desire.
On one of my other trucks, I use a shackle flip in the rear and a bone stock chebby 64" long spring to clear 40 inch rubber. This is a stock spring with no lift. When you are fabricating your own stuff, you can throw the lift numbers right out of the window.
You have the option f using stocj hangers for the rear or making some there as well.
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Thats what I want to learn is custom fabing stuff like this. I think I would be able 2. What amps would you use to do this type of work. Body work is different, same with pull a engine. This is new. I want to practice and learn this type of stuff. Is there any where I can learn more about this. You seem like you know what your doing.
Anyways off to bed, I will be on here tomorrow.
Chat some more.
CHeers
THank you a lot for your help!!!!!!!
Oh another question is how do you properly measure things out? Just like body work? I never did great in school.
Cheers

Anyway, to the OP- Ed pretty much covered it, but maybe do more research before you buy the springs. There's tons of tech about using blazer rear springs up front, stuff like that. Fabbing lower mounting points would probably be a much better option than tall springs.
I am doing an ~8" lift on a truck using all stock springs. If you can fab, then you really don't need to spend a bunch of money to lift it.

On the rear of the front springs, run pretty long shackles. It will help smooth the ride, and give some more flex.
Post up pics when you do this stuff.
Yes sir. I know, but it was all I really had. Next time I will clean up the work a little before I post it.......
It is very low. Still runs 44's, but like 40's. Thing gets after it, and it is all business!!!!!!
Notice how far back the engine is. See the balancer? Had to cut the firewall and make a tunnel like a van to set the engine back. Not much room for feet. This is one that you would like to drive!!!!!! I would let you too................
This would be one of those "priceless" commercials.






