Wandering steering
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,724
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From: Clarksburg WV
Wandering steering
On the highway, my truck feels like it wants to wander all over the place and feels like it needs constant input from the steering wheel.
I just put all new tie rods on it last spring and it has a steering stabilizer, and I got it aligned at the end of the summer.
Is this a sign my steering box is on its way out?
I just put all new tie rods on it last spring and it has a steering stabilizer, and I got it aligned at the end of the summer.
Is this a sign my steering box is on its way out?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
If you have twin I beam suspension - it is more likely a sign of torn up bushings.
The radius arm is especially suspect - the positioning rod that comes back from the ends of the I-Beams and ties into the frame has rubber bushings to absorb shock and hold it steady. This keeps the I-Beam straight front to rear.
If they get blown, they allow play in the steering that you really, really don't want...
I had a 1985 F250 with GONE bushings that was getting ready to take an exit stage left or stage right on its own initiative and found they were a cheap part to get - but a bitch to replace unless you had one hell of a sense of humor
It was perfect when it got done.
I would say go for a master bushing kit, and consider it training....
The radius arm is especially suspect - the positioning rod that comes back from the ends of the I-Beams and ties into the frame has rubber bushings to absorb shock and hold it steady. This keeps the I-Beam straight front to rear.
If they get blown, they allow play in the steering that you really, really don't want...
I had a 1985 F250 with GONE bushings that was getting ready to take an exit stage left or stage right on its own initiative and found they were a cheap part to get - but a bitch to replace unless you had one hell of a sense of humor
It was perfect when it got done.
I would say go for a master bushing kit, and consider it training....
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 380
Likes: 21
From: Las Vegas
Hey, guys,
I have the exact same issue, except I haven't changed the steering ball joints, but I do have a new steering box.
I have the rubber bushings to replace on the radius arms. I'm wondering if there is a bushing at the pivot point of the I beams I ought to change, too.
Also, it doesn't seem like my king pins move, but it's hard to tell. When my son in law cranks the steering wheel, I don't see any looseness in the steering linkage or the king pins, but the truck is a serious handful on the road.
How do king pins hold up? Is there an order of wearing out for the various suspension parts?
I guess what I'm really asking, is since the truck wanders so bad, should I just rebuild everything whether I know it is worn out or not?
Thanks!
I have the exact same issue, except I haven't changed the steering ball joints, but I do have a new steering box.
I have the rubber bushings to replace on the radius arms. I'm wondering if there is a bushing at the pivot point of the I beams I ought to change, too.
Also, it doesn't seem like my king pins move, but it's hard to tell. When my son in law cranks the steering wheel, I don't see any looseness in the steering linkage or the king pins, but the truck is a serious handful on the road.
How do king pins hold up? Is there an order of wearing out for the various suspension parts?
I guess what I'm really asking, is since the truck wanders so bad, should I just rebuild everything whether I know it is worn out or not?
Thanks!
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 387
Likes: 2
From: Las Cruces NM
The general king pin numbers I've heard is about 100k miles for the bronze and about 30-40k miles for the nylon. Nylons are easier to install as the bronze ones need to be in-line reamed for proper fit.
You should jack it up and do the 12 and 6 wheel wobble check for the king pins and for the tie rod ends, use a pair of water pump pliers (big channel locks) to compress the joints. It all should be checked "unloaded" - jacked up, no pressure on any of it. Toe-out can give a good amount of wander as well.
I'm getting ready to do my front end but it's a confirmed total mess. It's just a hauler truck (81 F100) but the king pins are shot enough for me not drive it right now. 250k miles and I bet these are original king pins. I did the linkage and all 4 wheel bearings which were not only shot but so loose I couldn't stop laughing until I remembered "Hey... I'm driving this thing".
My plan is to drop the whole thing - radius arms, I-beams - as one unit, break it down and send the beam/spindle to a machine shop for new king pins and then replace the I-beam and radius arm bushings.
You should jack it up and do the 12 and 6 wheel wobble check for the king pins and for the tie rod ends, use a pair of water pump pliers (big channel locks) to compress the joints. It all should be checked "unloaded" - jacked up, no pressure on any of it. Toe-out can give a good amount of wander as well.
I'm getting ready to do my front end but it's a confirmed total mess. It's just a hauler truck (81 F100) but the king pins are shot enough for me not drive it right now. 250k miles and I bet these are original king pins. I did the linkage and all 4 wheel bearings which were not only shot but so loose I couldn't stop laughing until I remembered "Hey... I'm driving this thing".
My plan is to drop the whole thing - radius arms, I-beams - as one unit, break it down and send the beam/spindle to a machine shop for new king pins and then replace the I-beam and radius arm bushings.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 2
If everthing is tight & bushings are good is probabley the steering box... You can have some one look under the truck at the pitman then see how far you have to turn the wheel to get it to move... This should tell you how much play you have in the box,,,There should be an ajustmeant scerw on top of the box with a lock nut... you can loosen the lock nut & turn the adjuster tell is just snug not to tight then lock it & see what happens... This doesnt allways work but you can try it before you buy a new box... It worked for me... Some times you have to adjust a few times till you get it right...If its to tight after a turn your steering wheel will not come back on its own so you have to turn it back..I did it & the more i drove it the better it got the gears will where in & the wheel will start to come back...Just dont get it to tight... Now i have almost no play...Just something to think about ...Lew
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