Transmission ,
You have two areas you need to watch, tire to spring clearance and clearance between the tires.
With monster tires, you also have to watch front tires at the springs, bumper and rear of the wheel well opening when turned full to the left and right.
Those spacers can get expensive if you need them against the brake drum and between the tires.
There are enough tire dealers and tire warehouses within 10 miles of me, I can have about any size I want tomorrow, 75 or 85 profile.
I am in mud so much, I run 285/75-16 mud tires year round now.
With monster tires, you also have to watch front tires at the springs, bumper and rear of the wheel well opening when turned full to the left and right.
Those spacers can get expensive if you need them against the brake drum and between the tires.
There are enough tire dealers and tire warehouses within 10 miles of me, I can have about any size I want tomorrow, 75 or 85 profile.
I am in mud so much, I run 285/75-16 mud tires year round now.
I would have to swap axles to run duals, which would be nice when I am hauling or towing.
But duals are a pain when plowing snow or running in the mud.
I am hauling less frequently than I used to, so instead of haning to deal with the duals in the mud which lately I have been spending a lot more time in, I just drive slower when I haul stuff.
A load on a quality tire usually is not much of an issue untill one of two things happen.
Either you are driving non stop for long distances or you are driving at high speeds.
Worst of all is driving fast for a long distance which overheats the tires even faster.
Heat is the biggest issue when hauling loads.
But duals are a pain when plowing snow or running in the mud.
I am hauling less frequently than I used to, so instead of haning to deal with the duals in the mud which lately I have been spending a lot more time in, I just drive slower when I haul stuff.
A load on a quality tire usually is not much of an issue untill one of two things happen.
Either you are driving non stop for long distances or you are driving at high speeds.
Worst of all is driving fast for a long distance which overheats the tires even faster.
Heat is the biggest issue when hauling loads.
The only other way to accuretly get speed is to get to a steady speed on the interstate with a stopwatch and as soon as you pass a milemarker start the stopwatch then at the next one stop it. Then you can do more math to tell you your true speed. To make this more precise time yourself for about 5 miles worth.
Do the above, and start and stop the watch at the milemarkers while driving 60mph. It should take exactly one minute to go between the markers that are a mile apart. If it takes less than 60 seconds, then slow down a little bit and try again. If it takes more than 60 seconds speed up a little bit. After a few speed adjustments, you should be able to travel from marker to marker in 60 seconds. You are going exactly 60mph. If your speedo says something different, then that's your speedo error.
No math at all, and no gps required.
I am new here so help me out. I have a 1990 F-350 cab and chassis (old U-Haul 14ft box) 7.3L w/C6 and 4.10s. I want to change to a E4OD. I have a electronic controller located. What kind of other problem envolved? Shift linkage? Drive live? bell housing? Flex plate? other linkage hook up? Anyone out there did this?
Thanks, Charlie92154
Thanks, Charlie92154
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wsc
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