steering linkages question
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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steering linkages question
Are the linkages any different between reg/ext cab trucks and crew-cab trucks? I'm looking at PartsAmerica and they list some tierods for front axles under 4200 lbs and different ones for axles over 4200 lbs, crew-cabs and cab-chassis seem to fit in the second category. Pricing don't seem to be much different, if I get the 4200-up outer tierods will they bolt up to my inners and knuckles? I just did ball joints all around, and I wanna do the tie rods too, they ain't bad yet but I'm hauling to Broklyn, NY next weekend and I'd like to beef up the front end a bit beforehand. Thanks!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Been a while since I looked at a 2 wheel drive front end, but usually inner and outer ends are not swapable.
The adjustment method says one left hand thread and one right hand thread per link so it may be adjusted without disassembly.
The adjustment method says one left hand thread and one right hand thread per link so it may be adjusted without disassembly.
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Postmaster
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Well I got them yesterday, and installed them, couldn't compare the 4200 lbs parts with the regular ones as the local store only had the common type in stock. Dave is correct, if you look at each inner-outer link one of the parts has a left thread and the other has a right thread, in case of the parts I replaced (outers only and turns out they old ones weren't really bad to begin with) the passenger-side outer has a right thread and the driver-side outer has a left thread, which implies that the passenger-side inner has a left thread and the driver-side inner has a right thread.
An interesting and odd "issue" encountered - when I put the tierods back in the knuckles and started tightening the castle nuts, by the time they were tight the thru-holes for the cotter pins were above the level of the castle nuts teeth, so inserting the pins would do nothing to prevent the nuts from loosening. I had to add some washers under the castle nuts (two washers on the passenger side, one on the driver side) to bring the castle nuts high enough where the cotter pis would properly lock between the teeth, but it worked out good. I used the opportunity to realign the steering, after the new ball joints if I kept the wheel straight the truck would start drifting to the left - one turn out at passenger-side outer, and one turn in at the driver-side, and it was dead-on. I can say tho, new parts definitely make a difference, I always wondered why my buddy's 86 F250 with the kingpin I-beams steers so easy, well apparently this is why, his steering ain't all worn out.
An interesting and odd "issue" encountered - when I put the tierods back in the knuckles and started tightening the castle nuts, by the time they were tight the thru-holes for the cotter pins were above the level of the castle nuts teeth, so inserting the pins would do nothing to prevent the nuts from loosening. I had to add some washers under the castle nuts (two washers on the passenger side, one on the driver side) to bring the castle nuts high enough where the cotter pis would properly lock between the teeth, but it worked out good. I used the opportunity to realign the steering, after the new ball joints if I kept the wheel straight the truck would start drifting to the left - one turn out at passenger-side outer, and one turn in at the driver-side, and it was dead-on. I can say tho, new parts definitely make a difference, I always wondered why my buddy's 86 F250 with the kingpin I-beams steers so easy, well apparently this is why, his steering ain't all worn out.
