[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I am new to the forum and would like get info on floor pans replacement. I just bought a truck couple of weeks ago and I didn't have a clue what I was getting. All I know is that it looks like it has a lot of potential. The guy who sold it too me said that it is a 1965 V8 390. It used to have a three/tree but it broke and was modified to a three speed on the floor. I’ve pulled out the seat and carpet. From underneath, it doesn't look too eaten up but it is starting to get spongy when you step on the passenger's side. I’d like advice before I buy anything to begin repairs.

 

Well, before you begin the repairs, I will let you know a little about what rusts on these trucks so you can check it out. You don't want to end up fixing half of the problem.
Is it 4WD or 2WD? The radiator core support is prone at the bottom to rust. Also, the inner fenders beginning near the hood hinges at their support bracket. The cab will rust at the lower rear corner. You will have to look under the pickup where the cab and bed meet because you can't see it from the street. Check the cab mounts in the front too and there is almost always rust where the door post meets the rocker panel in the front. You can see it when you open the door.
352's are famous for becomming 390's when it's time to sell the pickup. Either people don't know the difference or they don't care. If it is the original engine, it is a 352.
I would start by posting your data plate information so we can decode it for you. You can find out what engine the truck came with as well as all its other key attributes.
Floor pans are relatively easy and pretty cheap too.

 

First and Foremost Welcome to the Family of Ford Truck Enthusiast, welcome to FTE!! If you get a chance, love to see pic's of your truck, and don't hesitate to ask questions.

Posting link from Custom Classic Truck Magazine, floor repair panel on a Ford Ranchero, may find helpful: Suggest run a search in their 'tech' forum may find additional info.

Repairing A Ford Ranchero Floorpan - Custom Classic Trucks Magazine

There are numerous members who have considerable experience in auto body repair, bookmarked only a couple pic's of member's projects. Can't speak for them but my experience has been members do not mind receiving email if you have any questions. Also suggest run an FTE search on topic, if too numerous, try narrowing field to the 'paint and bodywork' forum.

Here's a thread posted by 73FOMO

Metal Meet Photo Gallery - DSC01373 - Powered by PhotoPost

Here's a thread posted by es2rider

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...cs-posted.html

Unfortunately, have not found but few Ford body repair articles I can post a link to. A novice 'do it myselfer' and hope to install floor pans in 64 GM muscle car this summer. Been bookmarking articles on the subject from Custom Classic Truck, Classic Truck, Carcraft, *Performance Pontiac, and couple other GM Magazines, suggest going to their respective websites and run search in their 'tech' forum; again, since they concern GM vehicles probably not appropriate to post the link. Believe MIG, or TIG preferred and less problematic, if not familiar, Carcraft has an article on MIG welding 101 may find helpful.

Anyhow, seems getting a little windy!

 

Here are the numbers from the VIN plate, which is located on the driver's door:
F10DN589064
115 T F100 481 A 08
5000 172 4000 25

i took a bunch of belly pictures so you guys can evaluate my rust situation. i don't think is nearly as bad as it could be.

 

Imagine depends upon how much time and money willing to put into it. From pic's it appears welding in floor pans is going to be labor intensive; IMHO, not overwhelming. Couple of other options, find a donor cab, or a quik fix using a floor pan repair kit. Whether or not there's enough metal to work with you will have to decide, kits kinda expensive, have seen the kit used on some basket cases. Bookmarked couple articles where the Por 15 floor pan kit was used, seemed to have misplaced the better of the 2 articles. If a keeper suggest cutting out the rot and welding in new metal. Am sure other members will be addition their suggestions and recommendations.

Rust Repair Made Easy

 

First and foremost, welcome to FTE...

Door tag breakdown...

F10DN589064

F10= F series conventional cab truck, 1/2 ton 2 WD
D= 352 V8 engine...if your engine has gold valve covers that what it is...unless its been repainted or such This engine looks IDENTICAL to the 390...

N= Norfolk Va assy plant..
589064= September 65 build date

115= wheelbase in inches...its a shortbed truck...
T= Lt Beige exterior paint color
F100= model of truck
481= 4 is interior trim color/description..Lt Beige Crush vinyl and Lt Beige wicker Pattern Vinyl
81 is a conventional cab truck

A = 3 speed transmission
08 = 3.50 rear axle ratio

5000 is the trucks GVW...amt of weight it can carry
172@ 3800 RPM ...engines HP rating at the RPM shown
25= Richmond, Va DSO...where the original selling dealer ordered the truck from


I hope this helps :-)

If you look on thebolt holding the dipstick tube to the engine on the top end of it there may be a small aluminum tag there with a bunch of letters and codes and such...this would be the engines assy tag...tells the engines actual size, build date of it etc...


Post some pics if you can.


- cs65

 

you can pull out a spark plug and use a dowel rod to measure the stroke. Think it was 3.5" for a 352 and 3.75 for a 390. I can't remember exactly is been over a year since I had to measure one.

 

cs65 I type to slow; thanks for posting the data.
Also I to "Welcome you aboard" (lilgolfer). You stated you havn't purchase yet. Just do a real good search for rust. Another good example of bad rust, look at the doors; notice the gaps between front fenders and door skin; should be even width between the two, also hood gap. Hope this add's to your inspection..
Looking forward to hearing more about your possible new toy.

Mitch

 

all of this information is great stuff. i did buy the truck a few weeks ago and i've lost a couple of knuckles to it already. as i poke around, i see that it has parts that were red, white, dark brown, black and turquoise. nowhere have i found beige yet. lol.
the drivers side is not that awful but the passenger's side is really bad. my plan is to sell my jeep and use this as a my second vehicle for trips to the hardware store, gardening and such. i paid 1400 for it and it seems to run really strong. you really have to give it gas when you are transitioning from a stopped position to first gear. otherwise, she hums down the road pretty good. i bought this in an effort to bond with my dad and with my "live in" nephew. so far, my nephew shows far more interest but he is only 3. i'm not going to restore it but i would like to make it a little more comfortable. i was hoping that my dad would weld a piece of sheet metal into the floors but he has not been very eager to volunteer. on another note, i replaced the windshield wiper motor and there are male tabs on the motor rather than a plug. it has three tabs and if you apply a hot wire to the left or middle tab, it works. i am not sure what the right tab is for??? also, there are 4 wires off of the wiper switch; green (12V from the ignition) red, black and another green. I think the black wire is always hot but i will have to check again tomorrow. i bought a chilton book but it doesn't go into the wiring too much. one of the previous owners really hacked into the wiring harness. i've been able to trace most of it and get the signals, heater, defrost and dome lite to work. also, i need to troubleshoot my horn. there are pictures in my gallery of the horn, wiper motor and rust. please let me know if you can't see these. thanks again for all of the help so far and i'm sure i will be on here often.

 

Majority of the Ford parts supplier's carry the Wiring Diag. Manual for specific year Ford truck, or purchase from the publisher Jim Osborn Reproductions, it's only $7 plus shipping, if not financially straped, it's well worth it. Do not purchase the laminated diag. you find on ebay, speaking from experience, they are useless.

Product List

Posting pic of the diag. which includes the wiper circuit.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...WireDiagP5.jpg

There a couple Ford part suppliers where you can go to their online catalog and check out what parts are needed to assemble the a particular component. While on their website suggest ordering a catalog, majority of them are free. Posting LMC only because of the pic's not necessarity for the purchase of purchasing anything.

LMC Truck Parts - Page 98

 

this should really help. i've looked all over for the interior/dash panel wiring. i have not been able to get the gas guage to work yet so this may help me with that too. i've made lots of sparks and gone through a few fuses this week.

 

The bad gas gauge is most likely at the sending unit. Either the float has sunk and needs to be replaced or the unit itself is simply worn out. You can take it out, take it apart and clean the contacts and it will buy you some time. They run from 50 to 79 bucks in the replacement catalogs.

 

I checked out your photo's; it has a 66 grille, and 80's style wheels I believe. Also your firewall & inter hood underside is showing your true body color IMHO also.
Looks pretty solid. Looking forward to seeing more about your ride.

Mitch

 

I'm sure cs65 was just typing to fast, the 5000lb GVW (gross vehicle weight rating) is how much your truck can weigh, including the load.

So If your truck weighed 3800lbs, you could haul 1200.

Greg

 

Anyone, what is that breather/filter looking device on the front of the manifold. I have two 352's, a '65 and 'a '66 and I have never seen one of these. Steve