https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...hen-hot-3.html

 

I would mount the filter anyplace convenient along the frame somewhere. It has to be between the fuel pump and the tank, so it's basically finding a spot to mount it and plumb it in.
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Fuel gauge - I 100% agree with not having fuel in the cab of the truck.
Brandon (bdrummonds) has a nice setup with the gauge mounted next to the left wiper pivot - all plumbing is outside.
Someday when I have some extra time, I will be doing the same thing..
Credit goes to Brandon who took this picture and I posted it out of his gallery.

 

Yes its smart

 

Finally got to do the ITP fuel tank mod today with the Wix filter and base. Not to bad. I would suggest having some help to make it a little easier. I have not been able to get it out on the road yet, but it has a noticeable smother / quieter idle and throttled up quickly. I'll post when I get a chance to road test and let you know if it fixed the lag issue.

 

When you have problem on the road you have to go to gas station and disconect fuel line on the back fuel pump on the rail and flush air (air compresor )inside the tank then clean for while after when you been starting turn on ignition couple times before start cranking.This work for me i aply air from my air compresor tru this fuel line on back fuel pipe .

 

I have DiPricol Optix (elect) FP gauges in both PSD's. (LOVE them) Here is her's:


You can do a mech. FP gauge, just use an 'isolator' that keeps the fuel out of the cab. I've had both. You see what I have now.

PSD fuel pumps don't really like to 'pull' through filters in my humble experience...

A vacuum gauge tee'd in fuel line before pump will be an excellent indicator of filter performance in your application. (cheap 'n easy too! )

 

where's the filter in the mixing chamber and can someone post a link to the fuel tank mod.? Thanks

 

Pictures please. sounds like my problem.

I pulled my boat to Lake Fork this past weekend and it felt like I just didn't have the boost when Ihammered it to pass or climb grade. Plus the boost stayed at 9, 10, and 11even while crusing. That sure killed the milage!

And the sound coming from my exhaust even sounds differnet??

 

Filter Base
eBay Motors: Fuel/Water Separator Base Baldwin FB1311 (item 270146744425 end time Mar-10-09 08:09:33 PDT)=

 

The mixing chamber is on the tank pick-up in the tank. Can't help with the link, but ya either drop tank or remove bed (generally considered easier) and remove tank pick-up. If you have an issue there, I think you'll see it. If it was me and there was enough crap in tank to plug that screen, I would drop tank and clean it...

Make sure ya do the 'harpoon' mod while yer in there!!!!

 

Nice setup Sky. I will look into adding a FP gauge soon. Also great idea on the vacuum gauge. Any idea what normal vacuum the pump should pull?

 

another dumb question but what's the "harpoon mod" is it the same as the "hutch mod"? I want to fix my tank and fuel problem just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing. I'll probably drop the tank to do the mods and repairs.

 

Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page

Try this it should tell you all you want to know about the hutch and harpoon. I just did mine a couple of weeks ago.

 

It will depend. You will get a baseline with a new filter and as filter gets plugged, vacuum will increase. You will determine when to change filter based on either FP or performance.

I have tried a few times to get someone to say what fuel psi is TOO LOW, and never have gotten a definative answer. I can tell you that I don't 'feel' any difference until I see below 20psi at the heads. As filter gets dirty, the psi will drop more and more under heavy load. I've 'babied' a filter until I got home before by taking my foot out of the skinny pedal when psi drops - accelerating more slowly and climbing grades slower, less boost, etc.

Maybe someone has a write-up, but its EASY to check FP when parked. Simply add clamps to the little hose after water-drain valve and clamp a piece of hose on end of drain tubing with a cheap water pressure gauge on the end of it. Open drain valve and read pressure. I guess you could use a long enough hose to be able to see this when underway as well??

I did this when making the mistake of shimming FPR way back when , but left the hose in place. I have it just the right length so I can collect the contents of filter bowl with a water or soda bottle. Now I can examine the stuff that comes out and not pollute our drinking water supply! I actually added a piece of hose to the Excursion as soon as I got it for just this...

Good luck and keep us posted!!

 

My thoughts on the vacuum gauge before the pump is to possibly diagnose pump problems before complete failure. My whole process for beiginning this thread was to diagnose a weak pump. Just wondering if you have just given me the way monitor pump problems without a fuel pressure gauge.