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Where can I get a good level on my cab? After setting my cab back on the frame it looks to me like it is low in the rear. I channeled the cab 6 inches, and all the body mounts are custom, so I can move them where ever I need to. The door sill would seem to be a good place, but I cut the floor out and raised it up for the channel, so I don't have any way of knowing if it is plumb with the rest of the cab.
As an interesting note, to lower the rear cab mounts all I did was flip them upside down. Instead of coming off the rear and pointing up towards the cab, they come off the frame and angle down. They still sit against the rubber bumpers, and other than cutting a channel for the mounts in the truck floor it went pretty easy.
when I am building/ assemble, I put the complete truck together and then set all gaps/ level.
I don't know if you are at that point yet, but the hood and fenders need to fit the cab and bed to have proper fittment.
Good luck!
what hammer said. as long as sheetmetal lines up, (cab and nose), you can do it by eye, or, attach a string level from windshield post to back window and line it up with door sills. make sure frame is level first.
Thanks, I think it is off bad enough that I have to get it straightened out before I go any farther. I took a picture from the side, and it is obvious. I think that I am going to set it so the bead around the firewall is level up and down and see what that gets me. It is just hard to find a long flat area on the cab anywhere to set a level.
CHAZ
I'd level off the body crease just below the side window as the most obvious horizontal visual reference line. Or else put the bed in place and see if the gap between the back of the cab and the front of the bed is even top to bottom so the truck doesn't look like it's bent in the middle. As long as the longest horizontal line is straight it doesn't really matter if it's perfectly level or not, you can adjust it with the suspension to sit how you prefer.
Yeah, the frame is done. It is a lot better than it looks in the pic. It is boxed, and then welded, and then there is a huge fish plate doubling everything up on the inside. The frame will break somewhere else before it breaks there, and the bed sides will hide it (I hope!).
CHAZ
The beltline and the cab floor appear to be parallel...use either as a horizontal point of reference. Given the scope of your modifications I wouldn't worry about how the rest of the parts line up, you have to massage all of them to get each in its proper alignment. That's an interesting way to "Z" the frame, good luck.
The beltline and the cab floor appear to be parallel...use either as a horizontal point of reference. Given the scope of your modifications I wouldn't worry about how the rest of the parts line up, you have to massage all of them to get each in its proper alignment. That's an interesting way to "Z" the frame, good luck.
I agree, not the way I'd Z a frame on something I planned on driving. Even with the boxing plate on the inside it appears that all the stresses are concentrated in a single vertical line at the end of each frame stub, and right thru a series of bolt holes in the frame rails, a recipe for disaster. There is also no doubler plate on the outside to keep the rails from peeling apart. If you would like some suggestions on how to improve what you have done and make it far safer drop me an email or PM.