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Sounds like you are losing spark one way or another, if you were losing fuel the engine would sputter out. Could be electrical, when something overheats it starts to malfunction. It is weird that it starts right back up though if it is something like that. A loose electrical connection somewhere in the ignition circuit could do it, but it wouldn't seem to make sense that there would be a pattern involving temperature.
Sounds like you are losing spark one way or another, if you were losing fuel the engine would sputter out. Could be electrical, when something overheats it starts to malfunction. It is weird that it starts right back up though if it is something like that. A loose electrical connection somewhere in the ignition circuit could do it, but it wouldn't seem to make sense that there would be a pattern involving temperature.
Yeah temps don't make sense to me either but it sounds like ground wires might be loose. Check all your grounds and if they seem fine check all the cables for splits etc. See if you find anything. At least it's something easy and cheap to check.
when u say unhooked, did they unhook every connection and leave the wiring exactly back to stock ???
my guess is they prolly just unhooked the power wire for the alarm...not sure if thats enuf removal..
like i said in my situation we completly removed the alarm.. as i didnt wanna go throu the hassle of figuring out why it wanted to randomly shut the vehicle off...
when u say unhooked, did they unhook every connection and leave the wiring exactly back to stock ???
my guess is they prolly just unhooked the power wire for the alarm...not sure if thats enuf removal..
like i said in my situation we completly removed the alarm.. as i didnt wanna go throu the hassle of figuring out why it wanted to randomly shut the vehicle off...
Definitely do. Not at all sure this is your problem, but worth looking into.
I've heard of this happening alarm installers thought to be really thorough and put an ignition interrupt relay in rather than (or in addition to ) just a starter interrupt relay.
As time went on, the relay points would get dirty or there half-arsed wiring starting going intermittent. Hit a bump, and the wiring or relay would interrupt the signal.
With an old fashioned analog ignition, no big deal. The engine would miss a beat and then go again. But with ECU controlled engines, some ECU's would see the momentary power interrupt and shut down all ignition.
If whoever installed the remote start did not solder or correctly crimp the connections (my experience is that at least 95% of "professional" installers do NOT have a clue how to make a reliable connection), then odds are at least one is going intermittent by now - and could be sending a confusing signal to the ECU.
CPS = Crank position sensor. If the sensor fails, the PCM doesn't know the engine is turning, won't fire the injectors, and won't fire the spark plugs. And, it won't throw a code.
Now while it would seem that if it was bad, it wouldn't let the truck restart, many times when the engine shuts down, it restarts right away.
This happens with the 7.3 diesel. Same exact failure mode. So bad, Ford recalled the CPS sensor for the 7.3. For the record, the V10 hasn't really had a known issue with the CPS, but that's what your problem sounds like. Of course, it could be other things, so don't just run out and spend $'s on a CPS right away unless you really REALLY can't find the problem.
(The V10 also has a cam position sensor, I think just so it knows exactly where every piston is. It only triggers once per cam rotation. The crank sensor will only tell it any one cylinder needs to fire. With the cam sensor, the PCM also knows WHICH cylinder is firing.
Shoot, you're in Canada...
I'd loan you a known good CPS to try (I have a spare), but the cross border shipping may add too much cost to make it worth trying.
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